Is this drag link rod end loose

[ekim]

Death wobble just started. Happened 2x - at 50-70 mph when hitting bumps. Having problems reproducing it. Checked steering joints by just feeing them and the ball joints by pulling on the tires (may try again with pry bar...)

I have a video of the worse joint we found. I can't move it (other than twist) by hand.

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[StartedWith97TJ]

You will need a helper, but the best method is to have the second person crank the steering wheel back and forth (quick turns, not lock to lock), while you examine all the connection points. The joint at the end of the Pitman arm was the first to go for me. Many others had the tie rod, drag link, and ball joints go first.

I would start by removing the pins and retorquing all the bolts. I would do this even if they appear solid while testing. Don’t forget to use new pins after torquing.

checking the torque on the control arms and track bar is also a good idea while you are it. You can also check those joints while your partner is cranking the steering back and forth.

Once everything is torqued to spec, repeat your steering wheel test and take it for a drive. If that didn’t solve it, then you can start throwing parts at it. Hopefully the testing will point you in a good direction.

Good luck!

Keep Jeep’n

 

[wibornz]

The best way that I have found to identify a drag link or tie rod being worn is to have some one move the steering wheel back and forth while putting your finger across the joint. If you can feel them move separately, they are worn. You can feel it this way. easier than just by looking at it.

 

[ekim]

That's what we did, the video in my first post shows some movement - but it's not side to side, just up and down. Not sure if that's typical or a problem.

I haven't torqued everything but I did put a stubby wrench on the steering pieces to see if they are at least somewhat tight. I need to get some 21/22 mm sockets and hand wrenches to tighten properly.

 

[jondotcom]

The best way that I have found to identify a drag link or tie rod being worn is to have some one move the steering wheel back and forth while putting your finger across the joint. If you can feel them move separately, they are worn. You can feel it this way. easier than just by looking at it.

This worked for me. I had a minor clicking sensation at the replaceable drag link ball joint (at pitman arm), and small movement on track bar ends. Never had a wobble until my caster was out of spec from a lift though

 

[firedude]

Play like that is bad. After death wobble you could have many parts that need to be replaced. How many miles on your jeep and what kind of driving?

 

[ekim]

Play like that is bad. After death wobble you could have many parts that need to be replaced. How many miles on your jeep and what kind of driving?

30K miles driving and 30K flat towing behind a motorhome. Some easy 4 wheeling probably less than 50 miles.

The only loose parts that I've found so far are the drag link ends.

It seems as if the drag link at the pitman arm can be problematic. How hard are they to get off really? Should the $25 tool work or am I better off with the $100 hydraulic tool?

 

[firedude]

Some times they can be a little tough. I use an air chisel with a pickle fork attachment. Or pickle fork and hammer. You might be able to get it with one of the tools shown.
Really look at the track bar and balljoints. They can develop play with low mileage. Once you get death wobble it can quickly take out other parts.

 

[ekim]

I'll double ck the track bar and balljoints. Is there better way to ck balljoints vs jacking up and putting pry bar under tire and lifting?

 

[firedude]

That’s how I check. Also side to side at 3 and 9 and in and out with hands at 12 and 6. Any movement at all and they need to be replaced. Best to check track bar with someone moving steering wheel right to left while you’re under looking close as you can.

 

[johneracer]

Anything with any movement, replace. Use after marker supplier. Death wobble is mostly ball joints and track bar. Followed by drag bar.

 

[ekim]

Track bar has very slight play when looking from under it. Since it's a bushing, I would think it should be ok? I'll look at it again tomorrow once the rain quits.

The drag link had play but once removed, the joints felt ok. They were slightly "looser" in the center - but that makes sense as that's probably where most activity was. The cheaper tool worked fine to get it off the pitman arm.

There's no play with the new drag link.

I replaced the drag link and tie rod with Currie Currectlync.

 

[wibornz]

30K miles driving and 30K flat towing behind a motorhome. Some easy 4 wheeling probably less than 50 miles.

The only loose parts that I've found so far are the drag link ends.

It seems as if the drag link at the pitman arm can be problematic. How hard are they to get off really? Should the $25 tool work or am I better off with the $100 hydraulic tool?

good luck on getting that on the pitman arm. A pickle fork a big hammer and heat may be necessary.

 

[gek]

30K miles driving and 30K flat towing behind a motorhome. Some easy 4 wheeling probably less than 50 miles.

The only loose parts that I've found so far are the drag link ends.

It seems as if the drag link at the pitman arm can be problematic. How hard are they to get off really? Should the $25 tool work or am I better off with the $100 hydraulic tool?

Pickle fork and a few good whacks with a hammer. I sheered the pin off my $20 amazon pos attempting to use it on it.

 

[ekim]

good luck on getting that on the pitman arm. A pickle fork a big hammer and heat may be necessary.

The little one (Gear Wrench) worked. The big one was too thick to and didn't want to to go on. I put it on and tightened it up quite a few turns. When it started to feel really tight I started turning may 1/4 turn and then tapping with a hammer. That seemed to work well.

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