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Is this amount of rust normal (9 months old) 6000 miles

BillyToronto

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After thinking more about your situation this morning,

1st thing i would do is hear back from the dealership i bought the jeep from, and see what they say first.

Above treatment suggested was for small rust areas, near plastic, connectors and electrical components, where care must be taken.

Larger, more exposed areas will benefit from power tool usage.
Of course, wear gloves and goggles. Grinder with wire brush attachment.

Billy

Jeep Wrangler JL Is this amount of rust normal (9 months old) 6000 miles GRINDER
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BillyToronto

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"Do you take your jeep to Krown AND wash the underside? I take mine for Krown in fall and then go all winter with no under spray. In spring I thoroughly wash the underside."

I alternate winters. Krown one winter, spray underneath myself next winter. (Another excuse to get under the jeep and actually see what is going on under there.)

Winters where Krowned, i do still wash, but less frequently. My jeep is stored outside but covered. I try and drive it for a bit when winter washing to allow the heat to help evaporate some of the water. Washing your jeep in winter and having it freeze shut is no fun, ask me how i know.

Living in Canada (and other Northern parts of the world) offer unique situations, not shared by all jeep owners.

Imo, we have to be more proactive about fighting rust, amongst other things.

Billy
 
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JL_Devin

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Thanks for all the replies.
I really don't know whats going on to be honest. Same driveway as wife and dads car, we drive around the same town, same winters etc. Their cars much older (5 and 6 years) and underneath look about the same (Nissan maybe a touch better, but 6 years same conditions). All un-coated. So I guess I just don't know what is so drastically different on the jeep and the ram I had (which was coated by the dealer) that they are just full of rust underneath right from the get go.
I guess I'll have to mention to the dealer, for at least to ask the question on what undercoater they allow because I've heard of warranty issues if not undercoated by them.
I'm so busy and have 2 kids playing rep hockey so that's why I spent $70K on a new car to avoid laying around on the ground painting and sanding and chasing rust, my 10 year old X3 barely had much rust on the underside comparatively come to think of it.
I'm a little worried now with this thing, and just unreal to spend this much money and this is what it's like in nearly no time.
I'm dumbfounded, doesn't seem to be as much of an issue for other cars I suppose?
 

Pape

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This is cosmetic only. You can run it whit out protection for all it useful life, minus the gas skid plate, that one will require constant maintenance.
 

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JL_Devin

JL_Devin

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Well, I'm probably going try and take a couple vacation days off from work and tackle sanding as much as possible, get it sanded off and then coat it with Fluid Film (will check with dealer if they're okay with that for warranty). I already have the CRC corrosion inhibitor I just never had time to do it with my 2 kids hockey 6 days a week. But after watching more reviews sounds like fluid film is still the best option.


I'm not a complainer by any means, just expect at least some basic ability for a VERY expensive brand new vehicle not even a year old to not ook this rusty underneath, it just really defeats me.
 

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@JL_Devin , good luck lots of good suggestions here.

This is why I hate road salting and plowing down to bare asphalt! Should only plow down as needed and leave 6-7" of snowpack on the roads, better grip with proper tires, roads don't get beat by chains and plows dragging directly on the road surface and vehicles don't rust away to nothing!
 

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When applying Fluid Film or any oil-based rust inhibitor, I recommend parking your vehicle somewhere other than your driveway for a few days until the dripping subsides. Once it has settled, you can drive down a stone or dirt road to add an extra layer of protection.

These products require annual application, ideally in September or October. If you are in Canada, it is best to apply it in late August before the snow and salt arrive. You might also consider Krown; they are a Canadian company with a product similar to Fluid Film that is often more effective, though it also requires yearly application.
 
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JL_Devin

JL_Devin

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Thanks.
I'm thinking about what will stay on best though.

I actually have a question on fluid film. Not assuming that anyone on here are fluid film experts, but just curious.
If pressure washer, or even driving on wet roads as they say, if these take off the coating of fluid film; then how would the coating last a full winter? We get snow pretty much every day from November to March, and road are always snowy, wet, and icy. How would the coating not rinse off on the first couple of drives?
I'm starting to think maybe use the CRC I already have because it might stay on better in winter.
 

Fishdoc

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Before deciding on NHOU, I spent a significant amount of time researching alternatives like Krown and Fluid Film. While I previously relied on YouTube for information, I have found AI to be a very helpful tool for this type of research.

NHOU Boss Wax Hybrid is a more expensive option. They do offer other products similar to Krown and Fluid Film that require yearly applications. I settled for the lifetime warranty with New Hampshire Oil Undercoating, getting it inspected and touched up for $100 every two years.
 

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eastern

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Thanks.
I'm thinking about what will stay on best though.

I actually have a question on fluid film. Not assuming that anyone on here are fluid film experts, but just curious.
If pressure washer, or even driving on wet roads as they say, if these take off the coating of fluid film; then how would the coating last a full winter? We get snow pretty much every day from November to March, and road are always snowy, wet, and icy. How would the coating not rinse off on the first couple of drives?
I'm starting to think maybe use the CRC I already have because it might stay on better in winter.
Just because you no longer see shiny oily sludge on the surface, does not mean it is not there. Just like with any grease ,oil, or any sealant, it is only a tiny amount on the surface that offers protection/lubrication.

As it wears off, and visually you begin to question its presence, simply go over surface with your finger - you will feel it.

Your photos showed front axle and steering components. Understand that those areas are not problematic, as you drive, wind and dirt will clean that area. It will not be surface rust free, but it will not rot. Fluid film and alike will not last long on axels. Anything you put on front axle or steering component will end up on your engine, timing belt, wheels, you don't want that.

It is the areas that don't see much circulation, like inside the frame, cross members, other crevices, especially around rear bumper, where water and other corrosive agents get in and remain there without being flushed out, those are very problematic, that is where metal eating rot begins.

Don't be disturbed by surface rust. On thick suspension components it is okay, in 10000 miles it will all wear out, blend in and will stop being so obvious. Now, surface rust on body - that is a different story, that is what gets addressed immediately.
 

azjl#3

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Reason 339 to not live in rust belt. Rust.
 

mini2nut

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Old Farmers trick. Spray the entire chassis with automatic transmission fluid and then drive it down a dusty road. Rust prevention on the cheap.
 
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JL_Devin

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Thanks for the replies Fishdoc, are you experienced with the Boss Wax? I don't mind more expensive (obviously, I bought a jeep that cost quite a bit more than the BMW X3 I had or the C300 Benz I had lol), but just curious does it have some issue with trapping moister like rubberized coatings? I'm happy to pay for something that works.

Great feedback Eastern.
I completely agree. So maybe a combo of coating if I do it myself? CRC around the axles, suspension, and near the underside of engine, and the fluid film everywhere else?
I know I shouldn't be bothered by surface rust (especially if I'll be costing it), I guess I'm still in shock just compared to our other vehicles we own or have had in the past.

I spent a fortune on this jeep, mainly because I wanted manual transmission again, one last one for this old guy. It ended being less of a bargaining chip because dealers know that nearly noone wants manual, and for me this will be tougher for resale if I decide to move on to something else, so I'd rather keep this long term (plus I love this jeep). Have a bunch of reliability fears/anxieties, a massive monthly bill for the next 5 years and 3 months, and just so painful to see all that rust lol. 😭🤣😄😯🤕
 

Fishdoc

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Commercial Oil in Hamilton.
Services: They carry the full line of NHOU products (Clear, Black, and Boss Wax) and often act as the hub for Canadian distribution. Give them a call and see what they have to offer.

Here is their Google maps location.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/rHayafAtmHe2zoE28
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