Gear Swap

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Transmission in neutral, but transfer case in 4H with front tires on the ground. Derp.

I was only asking because, I watched A LOT of videos on gear swaps and you should be able to spin the tires or drive shaft by hand in neutral provided the tires are off the ground.......LOL

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[Some Random Guy]

I was only asking because, I watched A LOT of videos on gear swaps and you should be able to spin the tires or drive shaft by hand in neutral........LOL

I was terrified my pinion was loose and the pressure from the driveshaft had pushed it into the ring gear, zero’ing out backlash and binding it!

 

[Some Random Guy]

Dead quiet on the way to work. A few more sub60 runs and then I’ll try it on the interstate. I don’t remember the Jeep being so quiet before. I can hear every time my socket rolls in the storage cubby.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Well, pinion seal went today.

In good news, I did get a refund check for the first 2 failures. Scheduling with a shop now, clearly beyond my capabilities. Thanks for all the help, I now know my limits.

 

[word302]

Well, pinion seal went today.

In good news, I did get a refund check for the first 2 failures. Scheduling with a shop now, clearly beyond my capabilities. Thanks for all the help, I now know my limits.

You probably just lost the little spring of the inside of the seal. I usually pack them with grease to keep them in place during install. I know you’re over it but that’sa pretty common occurrence.

 

[Some Random Guy]

You probably just lost the little spring of the inside of the seal. I usually pack them with grease to keep them in place during install. I know you’re over it but that’sa pretty common occurrence.

I didn’t know there was a spring. Was it supposed to come off the old pinion? If so, there wasn’t one when Yukon was done with it. I don’t remember seeing one on either of the new seals.

 

[chevymitchell]

Well, pinion seal went today.

In good news, I did get a refund check for the first 2 failures. Scheduling with a shop now, clearly beyond my capabilities. Thanks for all the help, I now know my limits.

You absolutely have to line the outside of the seal with RTV. If you rely on the RTV that comes on the seal, they will nearly always leak.

 

[Some Random Guy]

You absolutely have to line the outside of the seal with RTV. If you rely on the RTV that comes on the seal, they will nearly always leak.

I did, I used gray spread overtop of the red stuff.

 

[chevymitchell]

I did, I used gray spread overtop of the red stuff.

Then the only other thing that could really happen, is you accidently tap the seal out of place during the installation of the pinion. As you're hammering the pinion through the tail bearing, the tail bearing will slowly tap the seal out. If you don't catch that, it'll leak. This happens to a lot guys that take the pinion out more than once. Don't take the Jeep to someone to fix the seal. It's super easy to do, especially now that the pinion is set and through the tail bearing. Just don't over-torque the sleeve putting the flange back on and you'll be golden.

 

[word302]

I didn’t know there was a spring. Was it supposed to come off the old pinion? If so, there wasn’t one when Yukon was done with it. I don’t remember seeing one on either of the new seals.

It’s a small metal coil that keeps the inside sealing surface tight to the pinion. It’s less than 1/8” in diameter. Not really a spring, but spring like.

 

[chevymitchell]

I didn’t know there was a spring. Was it supposed to come off the old pinion? If so, there wasn’t one when Yukon was done with it. I don’t remember seeing one on either of the new seals.

Just like @word302 mentioned, there's almost always a spring on any seal sealing a rotating part inside a rubber seal. These springs are found in a ton of applications. If this is missing or damaged, you would need to replace the seal.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Then the only other thing that could really happen, is you accidently tap the seal out of place during the installation of the pinion. As you're hammering the pinion through the tail bearing, the tail bearing will slowly tap the seal out. If you don't catch that, it'll leak. This happens to a lot guys that take the pinion out more than once. Don't take the Jeep to someone to fix the seal. It's super easy to do, especially now that the pinion is set and through the tail bearing. Just don't over-torque the sleeve putting the flange back on and you'll be golden.

I’m dubious, but for you I’ll try.

To get the flange on I had to use a pin to tap the tail bearing down the pinion. So I’m fairly confident I didn’t knock the seal out since everything was seated and not being hammered around.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I’m dubious, but for you I’ll try.

To get the flange on I had to use a pin to tap the tail bearing down the pinion. So I’m fairly confident I didn’t knock the seal out since everything was seated and not being hammered around.

The pinion seal was leaking after 600 miles on my regear. I followed a video and marked the nut and flange and I made sure to put the flange back the same location it came off. Then I lined the mark on the nut making sure to not go over. It seemed to work.

You should be able to pick up one at the parts dept. The Mopar part # is 68401310AA.

I purchase a pinion dial torque gauge because I'll soon be replacing the flange to a CV joint one when I get a 1350 axle.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Seal is fully pressed in. I have to remove it to check for the spring, right?
Also, if I added a bit if extra oil would it come out like this? I think I got an extra 1/4 to 1/2 a pint.

 

[Some Random Guy]

AND, I'm an idiot. I just realized now I have to drain my diff and remove my carrier to get my flange back on. It has taken a hammer with every pinion it's encountered.

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