Fusion 4x4 Steering Clearance Issues

[JMP]

What mount are you using for the stabilizer?

It’s Clayton on the axle side and fusion(TMR) on the tie rod side.

Sponsored

 

[GATORB8]

It’s Clayton on the axle side and fusion(TMR) on the tie rod side.

Would swapping mounts gain you some room? Like the synergy axle side?

 

[hoag4147]

I’m wondering if you switched axle side to Synergy bolt if it would lower and pull in the SS enough to clear ?‍

 

[hoag4147]

Would swapping mounts gain you some room? Like the synergy axle side?

Jinx lol

 

[Headbarcode]

Too late to call them today. Do you know if they sell ends only? Should only need one.

Of course the OCD in me wants to blow the G and do it right.

RPM Steering does sell the Apex ends separately.

I used to have the original RPM linkages, before they switched to the Apex rod ends. The tie rod used the "hockey pucks" that replace the grease boots, so they required greasing more often. The drag link didn't have anti flop ends, so that extra vertical movement resulted in the Pittman arm rod end wearing and getting loose prematurely.

I ended up dropping the "G" to replace both linkages, instead of just replacing the Pittman rod end. The Apex antiflop ends are great! Another plus to the 2nd generation RPM linkages, that doesn't get mentioned, is that the rod end on the Pittman end of the drag link is shorter, which allows the aluminum bar to be longer. The longer aluminum bar allows greater deflection and memory properties, so less stress is placed on the rod ends.

 

[JMP]

I have a bolt that came with my SS…
It looks like it might help. It’ll shift the stabilizer to the right too, which will gain me clearance on the eyelet, but lose me clearance on the SS body. Measuring where the centerline of the shaft would be, it puts it slightly closer to the axle, but not much.

The bolt I have is 14mm, a little smaller than the 9/16” that’s in there (better bolt). That part sucks. Better chance of wallowing out the track bar hole and getting DW eventually just to clear a steering stabilizer. Decisions decisions.

 

[JMP]

RPM Steering does sell the Apex ends separately.

I used to have the original RPM linkages, before they switched to the Apex rod ends. The tie rod used the "hockey pucks" that replace the grease boots, so they required greasing more often. The drag link didn't have anti flop ends, so that extra vertical movement resulted in the Pittman arm rod end wearing and getting loose prematurely.

I ended up dropping the "G" to replace both linkages, instead of just replacing the Pittman rod end. The Apex antiflop ends are great! Another plus to the 2nd generation RPM linkages, that doesn't get mentioned, is that the rod end on the Pittman end of the drag link is shorter, which allows the aluminum bar to be longer. The longer aluminum bar allows greater deflection and memory properties, so less stress is placed on the rod ends.

That looks great man. I guess that’s the steer-smarts on the eyelet end of the TS? It looks really similar to the Clayton as far as positioning.

I’m thinking maybe I’ll just bite half a bullet and get the drag link. I just discovered that the link jam nut hitting the SS eyelet and Clayton mount twisted one end of the link some and the ends aren’t even lined up anymore… the torque paint is off too.

I guess the question is do I save myself the cost of a future alignment by doing it all at once, or do I save now to pay later? I’ve only got 200 miles on the damn fusion rods.

 

[GATORB8]

That looks great man. I guess that’s the steer-smarts on the eyelet end of the TS? It looks really similar to the Clayton as far as positioning.

I’m thinking maybe I’ll just bite half a bullet and get the drag link. I just discovered that the link jam nut hitting the SS eyelet and Clayton mount twisted one end of the link some and the ends aren’t even lined up anymore… the torque paint is off too.

I guess the question is do I save myself the cost of a future alignment by doing it all at once, or do I save now to pay later? I’ve only got 200 miles on the damn fusion rods.

If you just do the drag link, you can just match lengths and adjust until the wheel is straight. Don’t need an alignment.

 

[JMP]

If you just do the drag link, you can just match lengths and adjust until the wheel is straight. Don’t need an alignment.

Sold.

 

[hoag4147]

RPM Steering does sell the Apex ends separately.

I used to have the original RPM linkages, before they switched to the Apex rod ends. The tie rod used the "hockey pucks" that replace the grease boots, so they required greasing more often. The drag link didn't have anti flop ends, so that extra vertical movement resulted in the Pittman arm rod end wearing and getting loose prematurely.

I ended up dropping the "G" to replace both linkages, instead of just replacing the Pittman rod end. The Apex antiflop ends are great! Another plus to the 2nd generation RPM linkages, that doesn't get mentioned, is that the rod end on the Pittman end of the drag link is shorter, which allows the aluminum bar to be longer. The longer aluminum bar allows greater deflection and memory properties, so less stress is placed on the rod ends.

Didn’t realize you were on 3rd set of bars upfront ?. Those look stout ?

 

[JMP]

Is there

RPM Steering does sell the Apex ends separately.

I used to have the original RPM linkages, before they switched to the Apex rod ends. The tie rod used the "hockey pucks" that replace the grease boots, so they required greasing more often. The drag link didn't have anti flop ends, so that extra vertical movement resulted in the Pittman arm rod end wearing and getting loose prematurely.

I ended up dropping the "G" to replace both linkages, instead of just replacing the Pittman rod end. The Apex antiflop ends are great! Another plus to the 2nd generation RPM linkages, that doesn't get mentioned, is that the rod end on the Pittman end of the drag link is shorter, which allows the aluminum bar to be longer. The longer aluminum bar allows greater deflection and memory properties, so less stress is placed on the rod ends.

Is there a reason to order from RPM vs APEX directly? It’s $50 cheaper from APEX.

 

[Headbarcode]

That looks great man. I guess that’s the steer-smarts on the eyelet end of the TS? It looks really similar to the Clayton as far as positioning.

I’m thinking maybe I’ll just bite half a bullet and get the drag link. I just discovered that the link jam nut hitting the SS eyelet and Clayton mount twisted one end of the link some and the ends aren’t even lined up anymore… the torque paint is off too.

I guess the question is do I save myself the cost of a future alignment by doing it all at once, or do I save now to pay later? I’ve only got 200 miles on the damn fusion rods.

Like GATORB8 said, no alignment is necessary with just a drag link replacement. Just straighten the steering wheel and done.

 

[Headbarcode]

Didn’t realize you were on 3rd set of bars upfront ?. Those look stout ?

Yeah, on top of the factory linkages, I've also got the full SteerSmarts front end package and the original RPM linkages in a shipping container at work.

Only issues with the 2 aftermarket sets is a ripped drag link boot from being pickle forked off the Pittman arm during a front end overhaul, and a worn rod end on the RPM drag link.

Yes. I have a sickness. But I'm convinced that Northridge will eventually be able to cure it. ?

 

[Headbarcode]

Is there


Is there a reason to order from RPM vs APEX directly? It’s $50 cheaper from APEX.

For a whole drag link? They are both made from 2" solid 7075-T6 aluminum. Only thing that's not clear on the Apex bars is the adjustment flats. I'm on a phone, so it's hard to tell, but it looks like it just has the 2 opposing wrench flats. The RPM bars have hexagonal flats machined onto both ends, which helps adjusting with minimum wrench swinging room.

 

[JMP]

Anyone have the tie rod hitting the drag link at the Pittman arm at full compression? I have a 2.5” lift on an XR and had mine hit.

Is the geometry any different with RPM? Is the tie rod more out of the way?

Sponsored