Front Lockers

[2nd 392]

I have a Detroit Locker in the front of my TJ. All my wheeling has been mud and snow. Works great.

Interesting- My CJ5 had Detroit Lockers and would plow ahead regardless of wheel direction to the extent of sometimes having to use the winch to get it started in the desired direction. My Bronco with front LSD did also to a lesser degree having sometimes struggle and jockey it around to get it to turn (no winch). After install on the 5 my cousin said “ your not gonna like it in front” statement soon proven correct and I will not have a non selectable front locker again weighing pros vs cons.Edit-BTW, my fathers stock 3A with open diffs and skinny tires responded noticeably better in snow.

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[grimmjeeper]

Back when I had my JK with E-lockers, I did some experimenting on some significant rock obstacles.

Results with both unlocked were predictable. Of course, both locked gave the best results.

I tested with just the front locked and just the rear locked. The difference between the two was pretty significant. As others have said, the weight of the rig is mostly on the rear tires. Locking the rear axle was far more effective at actually getting up and over the obstacle. With just the front locked I would see both front tires just spin uselessly while the rear wouldn't move the Jeep at all. It was barely better than being open/open.

It might be worth it to lock the front with a rear limited slip. But given how marginal the factory limited slip is and how fast the clutch packs wear out, I'd still rather swap it out for a selectable locker.

 

[entropy]

I had a front Torq locker in my WJ. They function well but have some drawbacks. Aside from clicking in parking lots on turns, and heavier steering in 4WD, my main gripe was we have a lot of trails here (nothing technical, just regular rough desert trails) that have sharp turns uphill as they go up around a mountain, and on those uphill twists the locker always made one of my front wheels continually slip against the ground. I really didn't like that.

The torq locker for the JL doesnt click on turns. At least on my Jeep it doesnt.

Steering isnt heavy on 4WD I drive normal, fast on dirt, even tried it on snow. I barely notice it. Maybe it is me. But my friend who has it thinks the same. It does a very good job at differentiating when turning. I did notice the steering will get heavy if you really go full throttle on a turn. But you kinda have to do that on purpuse.

There are a few people running the front torq locker on this forum and they all like it.

It turns your Jeep into a goat. Imo it is better than a rear locker for rock crawling. I do have a rear LSD so I got some traction back there.

It is about $400 and you can do the install yourself if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.

 

[entropy]

There’s not really mixed opinions if you understand physics. The rear axle does the brunt of the work when you’re climbing as it carries most of the weight. Experienced wheelers always lock the rear first if they have to choose only one.

The front provides more control as it pulls the jeep up the climb. The rear provides all the pushing force and it generally has a greater effect on moving the vehicle.

It is kinda like pushing a wheelbarrow from behind vs pulling from the front.

I lifted the front too many times and lost control trying obstacles with a rear LSD and open front. Now with the front locker I crawl over the same obstacles super easily.

But yeah if I was gonna have either front or rear only id go rear. But the front torq locker is so cheap lol and i already got the rear LSD.

Eventually I am throwing a rear locker. Whatever people argue front or rear. The ticket is twin locked.

 

[word302]

The torq locker for the JL doesnt click on turns. At least on my Jeep it doesnt.

Steering isnt heavy on 4WD I drive normal, fast on dirt, even tried it on snow. I barely notice it. Maybe it is me. But my friend who has it thinks the same. It does a very good job at differentiating when turning. I did notice the steering will get heavy if you really go full throttle on a turn. But you kinda have to do that on purpuse.

There are a few people running the front torq locker on this forum and they all like it.

It turns your Jeep into a goat. Imo it is better than a rear locker for rock crawling. I do have a rear LSD so I got some traction back there.

It is about $400 and you can do the install yourself if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.

Front locker is definitely not more useful than a rear in the rocks.

 

[entropy]

Front locker is definitely not more useful than a rear in the rocks.

Yeah idk why I said that. I do find it gives great control over obstacles. But youre right. On a budget, if considering selectables. Rear first, front second. the reality is that nothing will compare to twin locked.

 

[blnewt]

Front locker is definitely not more useful than a rear in the rocks.

The only real reason I went w/ that Torq locker in front is it was the easiest way to gain traction without spending anything more on these small M186/200 axles. If I were to lock the rear it would require about $1500 after having to reset the ring & pinion, and if I were to run a selectable in front it would be a similar expense. So $3k to have the best locking setup would only be about $1200 less than a set of Rubi takeoffs w/ the better gear ratio, selectable lockers and a stronger overall setup.

I wish I had a $4500 budget to get his where I really would want it, but you gotta do what you can these days .

Appreciate all the feedback, hopefully I can get this out soon and see how it behaves and if it's something that will work well on the trails I run, or plan to.

 

[word302]

The only real reason I went w/ that Torq locker in front is it was the easiest way to gain traction without spending anything more on these small M186/200 axles. If I were to lock the rear it would require about $1500 after having to reset the ring & pinion, and if I were to run a selectable in front it would be a similar expense. So $3k to have the best locking setup would only be about $1200 less than a set of Rubi takeoffs w/ the better gear ratio, selectable lockers and a stronger overall setup.

I wish I had a $4500 budget to get his where I really would want it, but you gotta do what you can these days .

Appreciate all the feedback, hopefully I can get this out soon and see how it behaves and if it's something that will work well on the trails I run, or plan to.

Yeah I totally get it, for $400 you’re not out much. I wouldn’t spend anything on those axles either. Hell I don’t want to spend anything on my Rubi axles because tons are in my future. I did regear though because I have a manual and it was pretty bad. I did the gears myself though so I’m not out any labor.

 

[blnewt]

Yeah I totally get it, for $400 you’re not out much. I wouldn’t spend anything on those axles either. Hell I don’t want to spend anything on my Rubi axles because tons are in my future. I did regear though because I have a manual and it was pretty bad. I did the gears myself though so I’m not out any labor.

I think for the $400 spent I should get decent return, if it allows me to take a bit tougher line rather than having to back up and try something easier I'm all for it. And hopefully any advantage it will have will overcome any of the cons w/ them, we'll see soon enough

And kudos for doing your own gears, I've done a fair amount of wrenching over the years but not sure about going DIY on gears, but never say never

 

[entropy]

The only real reason I went w/ that Torq locker in front is it was the easiest way to gain traction without spending anything more on these small M186/200 axles. If I were to lock the rear it would require about $1500 after having to reset the ring & pinion, and if I were to run a selectable in front it would be a similar expense. So $3k to have the best locking setup would only be about $1200 less than a set of Rubi takeoffs w/ the better gear ratio, selectable lockers and a stronger overall setup.

I wish I had a $4500 budget to get his where I really would want it, but you gotta do what you can these days .

Appreciate all the feedback, hopefully I can get this out soon and see how it behaves and if it's something that will work well on the trails I run, or plan to.

Nailed it. It is difficult to justify spending so much on axles when our Jeeps are so capable. Being honest to oneself on what kind of wheeling one will be doing is the most important.

People wheel pretty hard in the U.S. we forget how much we push our Jeeps in this country and whats "moderate" for most hardcore wheelers is pretty darn difficult for most people without a built Jeep.

The reality is that with small mods you can safely take on most "moderately difficult" mainstream trails in the U.S. you wont be doing anything "hardcore" but trails that are just tough enough to make it fun.

I realized this when I did Gold Mountain. Most experienced jeepers in the area consider this to be "the easiest of the hard trails". Moderate, yet not difficult. For a stock Rubicon it is difficult, for a stock sport it requires a very experienced driver. And youll most likely get body damage.

The main 2 obstacles on Gold Mountain are very painful without lockers. And other obstacles ive taken on "moderate" rock gardens in southern Cali are miserable without lockers. The BLD system is unpredictable, jerky, slow to react, and overall it is just not fun; unnatural.

When I dropped a $400 locker on my front axle wheeling became a lot more enjoyable. It makes a substantial difference. Perhaps a rear locker is better, but how much?. Maybe my rear LSD helps, but I crawl through obstacles now that used to be very, very hard before.

Finding a set of rubi axles for 4200 is pretty difficult. Youre looking at 5~6k and dont forget about shipping if buying new... And thats if you install the axles yourself, so factor your time in as well.

I personally got to the point I am happy with the trails I am doing. I do need and use my front locker, my 33s, my rear LSD, my winch, and my better-than-rubi flex. These "moderate to moderately difficult" trails are an absolute blast, and I know my axles can take it, because I dont drive too aggressively.

My 2 door jeep will end up on light 34s, with the stock rubi wheels, a locked d30, locked rear dana44 and 4.56s. I tow a small camper with it and it needs to be a good driver on the road. This is $400 for the front locker and about $2000~2500 for the regear and rear locker.

My point on this long post. It is all relative. And if I decided to do actual hardcore wheeling I wouldnt be going rubi axles but better. So yes, a front locker is well worth it for most people. Mostly because that Torq locker is a damn nice option that we have available to us building budget oriented, yet capable Jeeps. My next Jeep will be a Rubicon, but this is what I have now. I got a good deal on it and it makes sense for me to do these upgrades.

 

[blnewt]

Nailed it. It is difficult to justify spending so much on axles when our Jeeps are so capable. Being honest to oneself on what kind of wheeling one will be doing is the most important.

People wheel pretty hard in the U.S. we forget how much we push our Jeeps in this country and whats "moderate" for most hardcore wheelers is pretty darn difficult for most people without a built Jeep.

The reality is that with small mods you can safely take on most "moderately difficult" mainstream trails in the U.S. you wont be doing anything "hardcore" but trails that are just tough enough to make it fun.

I realized this when I did Gold Mountain. Most experienced jeepers in the area consider this to be "the easiest of the hard trails". Moderate, yet not difficult. For a stock Rubicon it is difficult, for a stock sport it requires a very experienced driver. And youll most likely get body damage.

The main 2 obstacles on Gold Mountain are very painful without lockers. And other obstacles ive taken on "moderate" rock gardens in southern Cali are miserable without lockers. The BLD system is unpredictable, jerky, slow to react, and overall it is just not fun; unnatural.

When I dropped a $400 locker on my front axle wheeling became a lot more enjoyable. It makes a substantial difference. Perhaps a rear locker is better, but how much?. Maybe my rear LSD helps, but I crawl through obstacles now that used to be very, very hard before.

Finding a set of rubi axles for 4200 is pretty difficult. Youre looking at 5~6k and dont forget about shipping if buying new... And thats if you install the axles yourself, so factor your time in as well.

I personally got to the point I am happy with the trails I am doing. I do need and use my front locker, my 33s, my rear LSD, my winch, and my better-than-rubi flex. These "moderate to moderately difficult" trails are an absolute blast, and I know my axles can take it, because I dont drive too aggressively.

My 2 door jeep will end up on light 34s, with the stock rubi wheels, a locked d30, locked rear dana44 and 4.56s. I tow a small camper with it and it needs to be a good driver on the road. This is $400 for the front locker and about $2000~2500 for the regear and rear locker.

My point on this long post. It is all relative. And if I decided to do actual hardcore wheeling I wouldnt be going rubi axles but better. So yes, a front locker is well worth it for most people. Mostly because that Torq locker is a damn nice option that we have available to us building budget oriented, yet capable Jeeps. My next Jeep will be a Rubicon, but this is what I have now. I got a good deal on it and it makes sense for me to do these upgrades.

Nice reply, I think this will end up being pretty useful and easy to justify the minimal cost. I will be moving up to 315/70s soon and it's also nice that Torque locker stands behind this product w/a 4 yr warranty regardless of tire size.

Now I just need to get off my ass and go wheeling

 

[Nodak99]

I've been running a a front torqlocker for over a year. Last winter it did great. When needed (I am in North Dakota and grew up driving on ice packed roads). I throw it in and out of 4wd as needed. Yeah it clicks. Pro tip ... Most of us in the north country don't use 4wd for snow unless it's really hairy out. The thought is if you get stuck in 4wd, then you are really stuck. But if you leave it in 2wd you usually have one more option before you break out the recovery gear.

 

[Bikemobile]

I've been running a a front torqlocker for over a year. Last winter it did great. When needed (I am in North Dakota and grew up driving on ice packed roads). I throw it in and out of 4wd as needed. Yeah it clicks. Pro tip ... Most of us in the north country don't use 4wd for snow unless it's really hairy out. The thought is if you get stuck in 4wd, then you are really stuck. But if you leave it in 2wd you usually have one more option before you break out the recovery gear.

This is my dilemma, In Gunnison, Colorado we have 3-4 solid months of snow and ice. It melts off the streets but not the dirt road on the way to my house. The icy and snowy roads get cleared and then its really nasty. There are times when I need 4x4 just to get going in town through neighborhoods.

So in 4hi does it still drive ok on icy slick roads or is it more of a handful than stock LSD rear and open front?

 

[Nodak99]

It drives differently than an open front. You have to know you have it installed (ie I don't let my kids or wife drive the Jeep in the winter without a good lesson first). It will push through corners if you accelerate hard. But if you let off the gas in the corner the locker does it's job and let's the outside wheel turn faster. I would usually just pull it out of 4wd when I had to make a tight turn.

 

[Nodak99]

It drives differently than an open front. You have to know you have it installed (ie I don't let my kids or wife drive the Jeep in the winter without a good lesson first). It will push through corners if you accelerate hard. But if you let off the gas in the corner the locker does it's job and let's the outside wheel turn faster. I would usually just pull it out of 4wd when I had to make a tight turn.

Also, I am running 35s and 4.56 gears with the torq locker.

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