Floor Jack for Installing Lift

[whiterubicon]

I could definately build some cribbage (only about $1,000,000 in wood at today's prices). I also think I am going to but the taller jack stands. However, my jack only reaches to 19 and 5/6 inches. I would think I need a jack that can lift higher to take full use of the stands.

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[blnewt]

Something like this?

one of my co workers suggested cribbage. He’s a volunteer fireman and said they use it to support fire trucks.

And I use stacked OSB (when it was $40 cheaper per 4x8 sheet than it is now ) for my ramps, much stronger than the pressed steel garbage.

 

[blnewt]

I could definately build some cribbage (only about $1,000,000 in wood at today's prices). I also think I am going to but the taller jack stands. However, my jack only reaches to 19 and 5/6 inches. I would think I need a jack that can lift higher to take full use of the stands.

You could also put your jack on some stacked OSB if you need a couple inches more lift. but only if you still have some of that $7 OSB laying around lol.

 

[blnewt]

This isn’t the only way to do it, but this works best for me. And after dozens of lift installs on my garage floor over the past 3 years, and my age, I’m not gonna be looking for a better “mouse trap” now…….? .

Pretty much what I do too, although I haven't done it 100 times like you have @Roky lol

 

[omnitonic]

I just looked and took some measurements. The jack stands I used were 5 ton, and based on the notch I used (which is the notch that has the lithium grease from where it got stuck), I had just about exactly 18" from the bottom of the stand to the bottom of the U on the support.

This gave me more than enough room, and I moved the floor jack from position to position as I went around, in order to control the descent and ascent of the axle.

As far as jacking, I used an approximately 4" x 4" x 2" hunk of red oak between the jack and the pumpkin in the rear, to get extra lift, and reduce the chances of peeling the diff cover. I'm sure this isn't a recommended practice or a recommended jack point, but it's what I had to do to get the job done, and I didn't let any of the slippy juice out of the pumpkin.

The front was more tricky. I had to do one side at a time, and I lifted by the lower control arm bracket, which wasn't the most stable jack point. The lower the jack point, the more use you get out of whatever lift your jack has. I jacked up side one, put it up on a stand, lowered the jack, then repeated on the other side. It was a little sketchy with one side up on a stand and the other down, but it was the only way I could find to get it done.

Both of these operations would have been safer now that I have diff and control arm skids.

Also, my original plan was to use one of those dual lift point spreader bars from Harbor Freight up front, to jack both sides at once. The only problem was, it didn't fit my jack, and Harbor Freight had just taken their jacks off sale, so I really didn't want to buy a new, expensive jack just to use that thing. I made do without.

I guess in retrospect, I didn't take the smartest, safest approach to this job. I got it done, but I could have been safer.

 

[Vanburi]

I could definately build some cribbage (only about $1,000,000 in wood at today's prices). I also think I am going to but the taller jack stands. However, my jack only reaches to 19 and 5/6 inches. I would think I need a jack that can lift higher to take full use of the stands.

I don't like using the full extent of jack stands. Make sure that you have some breathing room for stability (a couple of notches or so). Fully extended they can be shaky and shady...

 

[AlgUSF]

Use the jack under the axle to lift. Put heavy duty jack stands under the frame. Take the tires off and put them on each side under the frame near the end you're working on, as an added safety measure. This will free up your jack to use under the axle as you install the lift. Never ever work under a vehicle lifted only by a jack.

Yep, never work under a vehicle supported by a jack. I can't believe I used to do that as a kid.

 

[GATORB8]

I use these. Not sure why it says pack of one, they come as a pair. 6 ton 23.5” height.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074R17GL4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[gerlbaum]

A slice of 3/4 OSB was $77 at Home Depot!

 

[MyDaughters20JL]

in all honesty, I didn't look through the entire thread, but I ended up buying some extended hefight jack stands as well as an extended reach jack: haven't run into any issues yet & I'm running 37's with a 2.5" lift:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087DW4GNL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00026Z3DQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[omnitonic]

Yep, never work under a vehicle supported by a jack. I can't believe I used to do that as a kid.

I'm guilty of that too. It's a wonder we're still alive.

That makes me want to dig up a certain photo, if I can find it...

Yeah, here we go. Look at this moron. At least we weren't quite that stupid as kids.

 

[engineXI]

slightly off topic, but does anyone use a spring compressor to help get the springs on/off?

 

[thundermuffin]

slightly off topic, but does anyone use a spring compressor to help get the springs on/off?

Yes, I used them for my lift. Felt like I was testing the universe, but fortunately no accidents.

For more detail:

I was installing a 2.5" lift, which I did over MANY weekends, since I kept running into weird issues (mainly since I was installing solo, while posted abroad, and it was my first time installing a lift).

For the front, I used spring compressors several times to get the springs on and off, until I figured out how much droop the axle really had - once I figured that out, I realized that the springs could just be pulled off once you got the frame high enough.

For the rear, I really didn't want to disconnect the e-brake, so I used the spring compressors to get the new springs in. Getting the compressors configured in a way where I could still wrench them was a huge PITA, until I realized that once they were in place, I could just jack up the rear axle, which would compress the springs more, and release the compressors.

Also, for extra height, I used wood blocks on top of the floor jack. For stands, I used a pair of 6 ton double locking stands on the frame, and a pair of 3 ton stands to support the axle.

 

[whiterubicon]

I'm guilty of that too. It's a wonder we're still alive.

That makes me want to dig up a certain photo, if I can find it...

Yeah, here we go. Look at this moron. At least we weren't quite that stupid as kids.

[/QUOTE


Not quite as safe as jack stands.

 

[omnitonic]

slightly off topic, but does anyone use a spring compressor to help get the springs on/off?

On side one, I didn't pay careful attention to the directions, and I installed the bump stop extension into the spring bucket first. It was an annoying pain in the ass that I really didn't want to redo, and I happened to have a set of spring compressors, so I flirted with death. It went easily and well.

On side two, I zip tied the bump stop extension to the spring, and installed it from the inside. It was an even more annoying pain in the ass getting it bolted down, but I didn't need the spring compressors.

Which way is better, I leave to you to decide. The spring compressors actually worked pretty easily and well. I manipulated them with a manual socket wrench instead of an impact. I'd have to install a bunch of lift kits and try it both ways to decide which is actually less effort. It was about the same.

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