Factory JLR With 35" Tires?

[word302]

The only reason I would want 35s from the factory is that I would hope it would be geared higher than 4.10. The added cost of regearing when already buying 5 tires and possibly wheels is a big bummer.

You mean geared lower.

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[stylett9]

I am aware that a 315 is out of spec on a 7.5” rim.

as to 315’s on other rims....

I have heard some of this “Rubbing” buzz too. But I can find nothing definitive about it. Tons of folks seem to use 3rd party rims and 315’s off-road without issue. But others say what you say. Can yOu direct me to your research that says 315’s will rub Without a lift?

It's a little bit of personal experience mixed with reading multiple posts from other people, along with using a little common sense, so I can't direct you to one single source.

Here's basically the evolution of my research.
About a month ago I went and did my first off road trip with a friend to show me the ropes. I put my 4 door Rubicon through it's paces and from my own pictures, Could see that under full articulation, including one time where I backed up to activate my sway bar disconnect, I could see my rear wheels articulate up into the fender.

Here's where it gets a little ambiguous, I've seen enough posts from people that claim on the factory 7.5 inch wheels (+44 offset I believe), they can run 315's (but not real 35's) at full articulation without rub, and I vaguely remember seeing photos where it looks like the tires clear ok.

The problem is once you go to an aftermarket wheel, almost all wheels for the Jeeps run 0 offset, or -12. People typically want that bulldog stance that Jeeps are known for and this "look" typically runs in the range of 4-4.5 inches of backspacing, which depending on the rim width, is typically the 0 or -12 offset. These for sure, even with the stock 285 tires (again, I'm speaking of Rubicons cause that's what I own), because the wheels stick out so much, when the suspension articulates and the wheels move "up and inwards, sorry best way I can describe it", you end up hitting your own fenders because now the wheels are sticking too far up to actually clear and articulate up into the fender/wheel well. This is how I've reasoned it.

So really at the end of the day, the problem with running bigger tires has less to do with the tire size, and more to do with the aftermarket wheels offset because of the ideal look everyone wants. This is why again, it works on stock wheels, but the problem is they technically aren't rated for 315s. The most conservative wheel offset I've found on a rim that I actually like, is +18, and I've been able to dig up posts where people running the Mopar wheel, which is +12 or +14, are still rubbing even with 285s.

At the end of the day, lots of people can and do run 315's on aftermarket wheels on stock Rubicon suspension just fine. But it's either because they don't off road, or they do very "light" off roading where their suspension isn't articulating enough where the tires actually need to articulate into the wheel wells. Based on my newbie off roading experience, it doesn't take much to do this. If you have to put it into 4H, or disconnect your swaybar, you are probably pushing your suspension enough where you'll rub.

I know my thoughts aren't very organized, but hopefully this helps.

 

[Spank]

The only reason I would want 35s from the factory is that I would hope it would be geared higher than 4.10. The added cost of regearing when already buying 5 tires and possibly wheels is a big bummer.

I wouldn't want 35s from the factory for the simple fact that they'll add significant markup to the price. I could be wrong, but I just don't see Ford, FCA, or really any manufacturer offering 35" AT or MT tires cheaper than national tire retailers. Dealerships that sell new vehicles with mods certainly don't.

 

[Humvee4us]

I wouldn't want 35s from the factory for the simple fact that they'll add significant markup to the price. I could be wrong, but I just don't see Ford, FCA, or really any manufacturer offering 35" AT or MT tires cheaper than national tire retailers. Dealerships that sell new vehicles with mods certainly don't.

True, but were they to offer 35s from the factory it would mean that they have also installed the lift kit, adjusted the spedometer, and most likely also regeared the diffs to work with 35s; to me that would be worth it even if the stock 35s aren't that good.

 

[JeepSmash]

If the Rubicon came with 35’s. Everyone would be asking why they don’t offer 37’s. I’m sure they’ll offer a trim with 35’s eventually. Let’s not forget. 35’s are part of an OPTIONAL trim on the bronco.

I can’t wait to see this magical bronco. I heard it has a self washing feature and even makes its own car payments.

 

[Humvee4us]

If the Rubicon came with 35’s. Everyone would be asking why they don’t offer 37’s. I’m sure they’ll offer a trim with 35’s eventually. Let’s not forget. 35’s are part of an OPTIONAL trim on the bronco.

I can’t wait to see this magical bronco. I heard it has a self washing feature and even makes its own car payments.

37s wouldn't be too bad. After all the Bronco offers 35s, Lol.

 

[sourdough]

37's are too much tire for a JL DD'r IMO. Climbing in & out is one issue. Stressed stock axles and steering is another bigger issue.

 

[entropy]

Who cares. You can sell your rubi take offs for good money and get the 35s of your choice. The Bronco is more like an H3 or a FJ. It is an IFS vehicle and not a jeep.

 

[Humvee4us]

Who cares. You can sell your rubi take offs for good money and get the 35s of your choice. The Bronco is more like an H3 or a FJ. It is an IFS vehicle and not a jeep.

My thoughts exactly. Wwhen I was watching the videos of the Bronco on the Rubicon Trail and at Moab I couldn't help but remember the H3. It did, after all, have front and rear lockers; although granted its uptravel, flexibility, and small tires left much to be desired. In fact, the mich heavier H2 without a locking front diff was much better off-road than the H3.
How about a Suzuki Samurai though? They have solid axles. I'm thinking about getting one, lifting it 8" or so, and running 35s.

 

[Dkretden]

I wouldn't want 35s from the factory for the simple fact that they'll add significant markup to the price. I could be wrong, but I just don't see Ford, FCA, or really any manufacturer offering 35" AT or MT tires cheaper than national tire retailers. Dealerships that sell new vehicles with mods certainly don't.

You might be correct. But....

dealerships don’t have the volume to get “discounted” pricing of gear AND dealerships love to charge $150+ per hour for labor. FCA (or any car manufacturer) does have the volume to get a good price on tires/mods and the major tire chains do too. As for labor charges at FCA or national tire chains, neither are $150+.

specific to FCA, would you not agree that FCA could use the existing Mopar beadlock/simulated beadlock rim (that they already make), partner it with the Mopar 2“ lift, and jam on a set of 315 KO2s right at the factory for essentially what those mods would cost for you to buy them separately and have them installed? Two out of three of the components they already make themselves and the 3rd they already have a volume-based, discounted, vendor relationship with.

 

[Spank]

would you not agree that FCA could use the existing Mopar beadlock/simulated beadlock rim (that they already make), partner it with the Mopar 2“ lift, and jam on a set of 315 KO2s right at the factory for essentially what those mods would cost for you to buy them separately and have them installed?

No, but that's only because dealerships were ripping people off on installing that kit when it first came out. Almost every other thread here when it debuted were from people asking for advice on the insane $1,000-$2,500 labor quotes they were given to install a kit a halfwit could do with hand tools over a weekend.

Granted, dealership labor cost versus factory production costs may vary, but we've never seen that from FCA. All the special appearance package JKs back in the day always had a crazy markup on third-party (usually AEV) hardware that was cheaper to buy yourself.

 

[aro]

At the end of the day, lots of people can and do run 315's on aftermarket wheels on stock Rubicon suspension just fine. But it's either because they don't off road, or they do very "light" off roading where their suspension isn't articulating enough where the tires actually need to articulate into the wheel wells.

I think you could say this guy does off road, and not lightly. With 37s on stock Rubicon wheels.

 

[sourdough]

I think you could say this guy does off road, and not lightly. With 37s on stock Rubicon wheels.

I noticed split fenders and after market liners. Are there other mod's like wheel or lift spacers? I don't see this rig flexing to full articulation or turning to full stops. I would call this example a fail at showing 37's working on stock wheels offroad without build spec's. I heard 2020 EJS was canceled.

 

[aro]

I noticed split fenders and after market liners. Are there other mod's like wheel or lift spacers? I don't see this rig flexing to full articulation or turning to full stops. I would call this example a fail at showing 37's working offroad without a build spec's.

It's all on his channel. He removed the inner liner. Nothing else.

I fail to see this as a fail.

 

[4xFUN]

I wouldn't want 35s from the factory for the simple fact that they'll add significant markup to the price. I could be wrong, but I just don't see Ford, FCA, or really any manufacturer offering 35" AT or MT tires cheaper than national tire retailers. Dealerships that sell new vehicles with mods certainly don't.

You would think (at least on a Rubicon which comes with 33" KO2's standard) there would only be a nominal upcharge for the cost difference going to 35's from 33's... (Tires only, of course-there would be significant other changes and upcharges necessary to accommodate the larger tires)

However...On the new 2021 build and price, adding 'Performance Rock Rails w/step assist' to a 2-door Rubicon is $975 additional...Not only zero credit for the standard Rubicon Rock Rails, they charge you $150 over retail price shown in the Mopar Jeep Performance Catalog!

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