Factory AUX switch acting peculiarly

[drouston]

Hi all... New to the board. I searched around for a thread addressing this, but didn't find one. My factory AUX switches were working fine for several months - AUX1 triggers a power solenoid for my winch, AUX3 is wired to front LED lights on the bumper, and AUX4 is wired to LED lights in the rear bumper. Recently the AUX3 switch has been causing a loud "click" somewhere around the passenger footwell or behind the glovebox when I press it, and it isn't sending power to the lights any longer (they don't light up). The light on the AUX button still illuminates, but no front lights. I checked the fuse and relay in the fuse box and they are both fine. Has anyone experienced anything like this? I've searched this forum and the web in general and I can't find anything. Thanks in advance!

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[JasonInDLH]

Welcome.

What’s the power rating of the Aux 3 lights you are running?

Aux 1 and 2 are 40 amps, whereas Aux 3 and 4 are only 15 amps. You sure you checked the correct fuse?

Other than that, I wonder if it’s something to do with your interior aux switch wires located on the passenger side inside the kick panel?

 

[drouston]

Welcome.

What’s the power rating of the Aux 3 lights you are running?

Aux 1 and 2 are 40 amps, whereas Aux 3 and 4 are only 15 amps. You sure you checked the correct fuse?

Other than that, I wonder if it’s something to do with your interior aux switch wires located on the passenger side inside the kick panel?

Thanks for the reply, Jason.

The lights are Rigid D-XL Pros, each drawing 6.36 amps (according to the spec sheet). I figured there was enough cushion to wire both of them to the 15 amp circuit. I'll check the interior wiring to rule anything out there before I take it in to the dealership.

Thanks, again!

 

[GATORB8]

There is a secondary set of outputs under the glovebox, surprised they are arching without blowing the fuse, but would be worth checking.

Did you try swaping fuses and relays with Aux 4 (IIRC it's the same rating) that way you can eliminate those completely?

Is there a secondary relay/fuse from the Rigids or did you eliminate that since the stock system has the protection?

 

[drouston]

There is a secondary set of outputs under the glovebox, surprised they are arching without blowing the fuse, but would be worth checking.

Did you try swaping fuses and relays with Aux 4 (IIRC it's the same rating) that way you can eliminate those completely?

Is there a secondary relay/fuse from the Rigids or did you eliminate that since the stock system has the protection?

I did a visual on the fuses, but I did swap the relays. No effect. I'll swap the fuses just to make sure. I did not use the Rigid fuses since, like you said, there is stock protection.

 

[GATORB8]

If you have a multimeter, it would be worth confirming voltage at the Rigid harness plugs and the fuse.

One other thought, you can change the switch to operate as momentary instead of latching in uconnect. Unlikely that's the issue as you mentioned the switch is lighting up as expected.

 

[drouston]

If you have a multimeter, it would be worth confirming voltage at the Rigid harness plugs and the fuse.

One other thought, you can change the switch to operate as momentary instead of latching in uconnect. Unlikely that's the issue as you mentioned the switch is lighting up as expected.

I did check the voltage (nothing getting to the lights), and I did try changing the switch to momentary just to rule weird things out. The thing that's strange is the clicking noise coming from somewhere on the passenger side footwell when I press the switch. Is there another switch/solenoid down there in the circuit? None of the other switches cause that noise.

 

[GATORB8]

I did check the voltage (nothing getting to the lights), and I did try changing the switch to momentary just to rule weird things out. The thing that's strange is the clicking noise coming from somewhere on the passenger side footwell when I press the switch. Is there another switch/solenoid down there in the circuit? None of the other switches cause that noise.

Should just be output wires in the cab:

 

[JasonInDLH]

Thanks for the reply, Jason.

The lights are Rigid D-XL Pros, each drawing 6.36 amps (according to the spec sheet). I figured there was enough cushion to wire both of them to the 15 amp circuit. I'll check the interior wiring to rule anything out there before I take it in to the dealership.

Thanks, again!

Coincidentally, I have the same lights wired to Aux 3 as well with no problems. Sounds like you have some Gremlins lurking about.

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