Engine oil temps. Skid plates. S&B scoops

[cnapierala]

Been towing my little off road camper and noticing my oul temps VERY slowly drop after pulling grades.
I have the metalcloak full skids and am wondering how much if any those trap the heat?
Also thinking of adding the S&B hood scoops to pull in some cold air and was wondering if anyone has a similar setup, experience etc.?

Sponsored

 

[hamiamham69]

I don’t have any first hand experience with this product but there exists a fan controller which a few members have installed to lower their engine temps.

RPMextreme and several others make them ..

 

[Flip]

I 2nd the rpm-extreme fan controller. Your high engine temp probably will be over.

 

[Max Headroom]

Been towing my little off road camper and noticing my oul temps VERY slowly drop after pulling grades.
I have the metalcloak full skids and am wondering how much if any those trap the heat?
Also thinking of adding the S&B hood scoops to pull in some cold air and was wondering if anyone has a similar setup, experience etc.?

Lot's of threads on the S&B, I recently posted a review of them, and there are lot's of wildly differing opinions.
Spoiler alert, I've already removed them and went back to the opened up rubi hood vents. Zero cost, and the most effective IMO.

I have my now removed S&B scoops sitting in the junk part bins. If you want to try them, let me know. I'm sticking with the opened up rubi vents.
shoot me a message if your interested in them

 

[roaniecowpony]

Been towing my little off road camper and noticing my oul temps VERY slowly drop after pulling grades.
I have the metalcloak full skids and am wondering how much if any those trap the heat?
Also thinking of adding the S&B hood scoops to pull in some cold air and was wondering if anyone has a similar setup, experience etc.?

The Metalcloak skids shouldn't have any effect.

I've installed 3 RPM Extreme fan controllers on JLs. All of them dropped the coolant temps by about 20F across the spectrum of operation. Since the oil system uses the coolant to transfer its heat away, dropping coolant temps gets you the benefit of a parallel drop in oil temperatures. These jeeps seem to have some kind of air flow reversion going on under the vehicle, which highway speeds alone don't generate enough high pressure in front of the grill to overcome the pressure in the engine compartment and push air through the radiator. The fan has the power to force the flow needed, but it has a temperature schedule that comes on too late. The RPM fan controller basically just slides the entire fan schedule (xxxF/25% speed, xxxF/50% speed, etc) down about 20F.

 

[shane h.]

Another vote for the RPM Extreme fan controller. It's a game changer.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Lot's of threads on the S&B, I recently posted a review of them, and there are lot's of wildly differing opinions.
Spoiler alert, I've already removed them and went back to the opened up rubi hood vents. Zero cost, and the most effective IMO.

I have my now removed S&B scoops sitting in the junk part bins. If you want to try them, let me know. I'm sticking with the opened up rubi vents.
shoot me a message if your interested in them

Given the theory of the engine compartment having a high pressure from flow under the vehicle, I think venting the hood could be effective at relieving the high pressure, as long as the vents aren't at high pressure directly in front of the windshield

 

[Max Headroom]

Given the theory of the engine compartment having a high pressure from flow under the vehicle, I think venting the hood could be effective at relieving the high pressure, as long as the vents aren't at high pressure directly in front of the windshield

I had added this update to a post about my experience with the opened up factory vents
"One last thing. After reinstalling the opened factory vents, I did the yarn strings airflow thing again, but with strings on each vent, and not just the front of the vent grill. I did this for a couple of commute trips.
I had interesting results.
The strings on the front vents were straight back at highway speeds.
The strings on the middle and rear vents ended up getting sucked into the vent grills.
Even after stopping, and pulling them back out, the would get sucked into the vents at anything over 50ish. So there is something going on, as far as airflow. "

The yarn string experiment makes me think there is low pressure under the hood. At least in the area of the vents.
Maybe from the air coming thru the radiator and CAC, hitting the engine, and venting out the fenderwells? IDK.

the full post
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...angler-rubicon-jlu.149518/page-5#post-3101401

My review of the hood scoops
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/s-b-rubicon-hood-scoop-review.153947/

 

[Rickeoni]

Rpm says not tested on the eco diesel. Which one is being used?

 

[hamiamham69]

It’s not always intuitive. We had a 35’ boat with a front hatch that faced backwards. Air would flow down both sides of the cabin doghouse on the outside and enter the cabin via the large entryway hatch. In doing so - and this is an educated guess - it caused the front hatch to actually be an exhaust. Anyways I think the capacity of the engine to cool itself via a new fan controller exceeds anything vents could possibly muster.

 

[cnapierala]

Rpm says not tested on the eco diesel. Which one is being used?

2nd this question. I like the idea of a fan controller I can turn on when I know a grade is coming up.

 

[cnapierala]

I had added this update to a post about my experience with the opened up factory vents
"One last thing. After reinstalling the opened factory vents, I did the yarn strings airflow thing again, but with strings on each vent, and not just the front of the vent grill. I did this for a couple of commute trips.
I had interesting results.
The strings on the front vents were straight back at highway speeds.
The strings on the middle and rear vents ended up getting sucked into the vent grills.
Even after stopping, and pulling them back out, the would get sucked into the vents at anything over 50ish. So there is something going on, as far as airflow. "

The yarn string experiment makes me think there is low pressure under the hood. At least in the area of the vents.
Maybe from the air coming thru the radiator and CAC, hitting the engine, and venting out the fenderwells? IDK.

the full post
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...angler-rubicon-jlu.149518/page-5#post-3101401

My review of the hood scoops
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/s-b-rubicon-hood-scoop-review.153947/

Thank you! I will read through all that info when I get some time!

 

[roaniecowpony]

2nd this question. I like the idea of a fan controller I can turn on when I know a grade is coming up.

I bought the RPM fan controller with the options for medium and high switched speeds. I have never needed to use them.

RPM has stated they have not had a diesel available to test. Contact them.

 

[THAW]

2nd this question. I like the idea of a fan controller I can turn on when I know a grade is coming up.

I'm not sure I understand exactly what you're asking, but Tazers have a "Cooldown Mode" that is a manual switch for 100% RAD FAN speed. I use it for hills.

 

[cnapierala]

I'm not sure I understand exactly what you're asking, but Tazers have a "Cooldown Mode" that is a manual switch for 100% RAD FAN speed. I use it for hills.

I already have an iDash in the OBD and am also running the GDE Tune so can't do a Tazer.
Im not having a problem, just looking for a way to keep things cooler. I don't like to see the 240+ temps.

Sponsored