Contamination in 2.0 engine

[robrob]

Where do i start. I got antifreeze in the engine and oil In the coolant. Twisted the oil cap off and looked inside cap full of white goo. Then pulled the upper radiator hose and coated with the same goo as the oil cap. No knocking yet on lower end little rattle from top end. Checked the compression all equal around 130psi. Only at cold start. I understand the motor as of now is bad. Was wondering has anyone had this same issue. And is it worth to strip motor down and rebuild and see what cause this. Or buy a used motor and hope it works. I thinking it’s a cracked head or block. Let me know if what your thoughts are thanks for your time I will attach two photos of my issue

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[Zon]

2.0?

 

[robrob]

Crap I’m sorry yes 2.0 turbo

 

[Max Headroom]

Before you go crazy, you need to have it looked at. It may just be a blown head gasket.

 

[azjl#3]

miles? low, consider rebuild. But honestly, I think a salvage is not a bad deal if it runs and guarantee.

 

[robrob]

Before you go crazy, you need to have it looked at. It may just be a blown head gasket.

It was at jeep dealership when they said it needed a new motor I’m assuming because of the contamination in oil and coolant.And for them to clean all hoses $$$. I am sure because of there rates and they will only install new motors and not used ones. There cost is so high and that puts the value higher then the cost of jeep.

 

[Phrank]

It was at jeep dealership when they said it needed a new motor

Do not blindly trust your local dealer. Find a trustworthy shop and let them tell you.

 

[robrob]

I agree on that it’s worth finding out before tearing into things. TY

 

[Bayrat]

Gasket is the first thing I thought of when I read your post.

 

[robrob]

Gasket is the first thing I thought of when I read your post.

Whats your thought on radiator failing, I’m not sure if this wrangler shares the radiator for cooling the oil. Example my Chevy truck does this and has a separate inner cooler in the front of radiator for transmission. If I did all of the gaskets almost wanna install new radiator too, I’m sure it’s slugged.

 

[alphawolff]

Generally once you've gotten oil in the coolant like this the engine must be flushed extensively at a minimum in addition to *every* cooling system component needing replacement. That means radiator, hoses, heater core, oil cooler, etc.

As a dealer I would recommend everything including the engine to prevent a comeback. If you're tackling this yourself repair the cause (probably the oil cooler) then run flush through the cooling system multiple times. I'd suggest replacing the radiator at the very least after attempting to flush it, and continue attempting flushes for awhile after that.

So long as you have heat and the engine isn't overheating you can consider it repaired more or less, but be aware you'll never get all of the gunk out no matter how hard you try. Proper repair procedure is replacing every part of the cooling system, engine included. The dealer should have recommended the same, if they only said the engine I would correct them. You cannot effectively flush radiator type components due to their design.

 

[Heimkehr]

Per post #11.

Whats your thought on radiator failing

Example my Chevy truck does this and has a separate inner cooler in the front of radiator for transmission.

Plastic-tanked radiators are indeed subject to failure as a consequence of their construction.

By way of example:

I had a four-figure repair bill after having the radiator, hoses and a few other ancillaries replaced on the Honda that preceded my Jeep. That expense informed the latter's purchase, to be honest.

Honda used dissimilar metals for the connectors on the bottom of the radiator. Those connectors corroded over time. That, in conjunction with failure of internal plastic components (due to heat fatigue over time) caused the transmission fluid that flowed through the otherwise segregated bottom of the radiator to blend a bit with the engine coolant...because that critical separation was no longer present.

I parked the vehicle and had it towed to the dealer shortly after the problem manifested itself as sluggish acceleration and red droplets sprayed about in the engine bay and the pax-side wheel well...which I recognized instantly as OEM transmission fluid.

The vehicle was restored to proper functioning, but only with OEM parts and without any changes to the design or functioning of the cooling system. Said differently, I knew I was just buying time, relative to the under-specification of the parts Honda used in the unending chase for fractional improvements in average fuel efficiency.

Long story longer: radiators shouldn't be constructed of plastic, but that train has left the station.

My pre-purchase due diligence didn't reveal the same problem occurring on the Wrangler, so I went ahead with it. 4+ years later and no such issues thus far.

 

[ym0bc1]

Whats your thought on radiator failing, I’m not sure if this wrangler shares the radiator for cooling the oil. Example my Chevy truck does this and has a separate inner cooler in the front of radiator for transmission. If I did all of the gaskets almost wanna install new radiator too, I’m sure it’s slugged.

I don't see how the oil and coolant can share the same radiator. Is there such design in any car?

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