Clunk and Pop after control arms installed (FIXED!)

[Goheels050917]

If this helps just one person, I'm satisfied so here goes.

I installed a 2.5 in lift a year or so ago and all was well until I installed some lower control arms for better steering.

Maybe a few weeks after installation, I noticed when backing down a hill, there would be this loud Pop!

Well i took to the dealer and ofcourse didnt find anything. They checked transmission and drive shaft and all was well.

Then i realized that I wonder if the person who installed the control arms didn't torque to the correct 190 ft lbs? So I took out my torque wrench and clearly wasn't to spec.

So I spec'd it and boom! No more pop or click.

I know there are threads and threads about people thinking its transmission, etc but check your torque specs! It might surprise you.

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[DadJokes]

I used the factory spec because my torque wrench topped out at 150. I don’t recall the specifics but it’s a certain lb ft + so many degrees rotation I marked off with a paint pen. I used an impact to rotate it there.

 

[Goheels050917]

I used the factory spec because my torque wrench topped out at 150. I don’t recall the specifics but it’s a certain lb ft + so many degrees rotation I marked off with a paint pen. I used an impact to rotate it there.

Yeah I didn't even check after I got jeep back. Sounded like the axle was gonna explode lol

 

[3VOLVE]

The tough thing is that I have torqued everything to spec and I can confirm all of the movement on my driveline comes from the tie rod. Even after properly torqing to spec, I can still gran the tirerod and move it by hand.

 

[thecritter]

Exact same thing after the accident took mine a few weeks to show up. Lower drivers side was loose.

 

[Goheels050917]

Exact same thing after the accident took mine a few weeks to show up. Lower drivers side was loose.

Thanks for chiming in! Perhaps both scenarios maybe wiggled their way loose.

 

[thecritter]

Thanks for chiming in! Perhaps both scenarios maybe wiggled their way loose.

Sorry needed more explanation.. mine were bent after accident shop replaced and did not torque correctly like yours.

 

[Goheels050917]

Sorry needed more explanation.. mine were bent after accident shop replaced and did not torque correctly like yours.

Ugh sorry man

 

[Spank]

Then i realized that I wonder if the person who installed the control arms didn't torque to the correct 190 ft lbs? So I took out my torque wrench amd clearly wasn't to spec.

Just curious, but what were they torqued to originally?

A lot of shops fail to understand the importance of torque while in the air on a lift vs. torque on the ground. Nonetheless, glad you found the problem. It's amazing how being off just a smidge can make all the difference.

 

[Goheels050917]

Just curious, but what were they torqued to originally?

A lot of shops fail to understand the importance of torque while in the air on a lift vs. torque on the ground. Nonetheless, glad you found the problem. It's amazing how being off just a smidge can make all the difference.

I'm not 100% what it was but was way less than it should have been. This shop also didn't realize that you should torque when the jeep is on the ground with weight on axles and not while in the air like you said.

I was starting to think it was a drive shaft issue lol.

 

[WagzDad]

Every suspension install instructions has a statement to recheck installation torque after 500 miles (give or take).

Long ago I did a 3” body lift on a S10. There was one bolt that would reliably loosen Itself between oil changes. Even with loctite.

 

[Neanderthalman]

There was one bolt that would reliably loosen Itself between oil changes. Even with loctite.

That kind of special motherfucker gets a tack-weld as a keeper.

 

[smarshall]

If this helps just one person, I'm satisfied so here goes.

I installed a 2.5 in lift a year or so ago and all was well until I installed some lower control arms for better steering.

Maybe a few weeks after installation, I noticed when backing down a hill, there would be this loud Pop!

Well i took to the dealer and ofcourse didnt find anything. They checked transmission and drove shaft and all was well.

Then i realized that I wonder if the person who installed the control arms didn't torque to the correct 190 ft lbs? So I took out my torque wrench amd clearly wasn't to spec.

So I spec'd it and boom! No more pop or click.

I know there are threads and threads about people thinking its transmission, etc but check your torque specs! It might surprise you.

Count me as one of those you helped.

I had the extended Mopar LCA's installed about 2 months ago to help with caster angle (which it did) along with the synergy sector shaft brace (which also helped with steering feel) and some other service work at a local 'offroad specialty' shop. About 2 weeks ago I started noticing clicking and popping when nose diving under braking and again on acceleration. I took it back to the shop and explained what I was hearing and asked them to check the torque on everything. They admitted they heard the popping but insisted it was 'a Jeep thing' and claimed everything was torqued to spec.

Before this I had low speed clicking from the ball joints and assumed it might be related and was about to pull the tires and check them again. I read this post which matched what I was experiencing and realized it was happening regardless if I had the wheels turned or not. The ball joints only mad noise when turning so not likely to be that.

So, I bought a 24mm wrench and checked the LCA's... Eureka! The driver side control arm was torqued to about 80 ft lbs front and back. I'm guessing the shop zipped it on with an impact and never came back and torqued down. Awesome. The passenger side was tighter and didn't seem to be making any noise.

Thanks for posting.

 

[Goheels050917]

Count me as one of those you helped.

I had the extended Mopar LCA's installed about 2 months ago to help with caster angle (which it did) along with the synergy sector shaft brace (which also helped with steering feel) and some other service work at a local 'offroad specialty' shop. About 2 weeks ago I started noticing clicking and popping when nose diving under braking and again on acceleration. I took it back to the shop and explained what I was hearing and asked them to check the torque on everything. They admitted they heard the popping but insisted it was 'a Jeep thing' and claimed everything was torqued to spec.

Before this I had low speed clicking from the ball joints and assumed it might be related and was about to pull the tires and check them again. I read this post which matched what I was experiencing and realized it was happening regardless if I had the wheels turned or not. The ball joints only mad noise when turning so not likely to be that.

So, I bought a 24mm wrench and checked the LCA's... Eureka! The driver side control arm was torqued to about 80 ft lbs front and back. I'm guessing the shop zipped it on with an impact and never came back and torqued down. Awesome. The passenger side was tighter and didn't seem to be making any noise.

Thanks for posting.

Awesome! Same here on both accounts.

1. Dealership said "its a jeep thing".
2. Passenger side was good the whole time.

Good job man and that 10 dollar socket saved you hours upon hours and multiple trips to the Dealership. (Not to mention those fake repair bills)

 

[Goheels050917]

Just curious, but what were they torqued to originally?

A lot of shops fail to understand the importance of torque while in the air on a lift vs. torque on the ground. Nonetheless, glad you found the problem. It's amazing how being off just a smidge can make all the difference.

Probably 90 or so.

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