CavFab Installation Experience

[JEEP4U]

How did the hinge reinforcement brackets turn out? Easy install? Does the factory plastic install over the bolts?

I have just their inner plate coming to keep everything stealth, and was wondering if these would do anything worthwhile on stock hinges.

Easy install..........Interior plastic panel installs with no issues.

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[Headbarcode]

How did the hinge reinforcement brackets turn out? Easy install? Does the factory plastic install over the bolts?

I have just their inner plate coming to keep everything stealth, and was wondering if these would do anything worthwhile on stock hinges.

The anchor locations on the body panel aren't the weak points. The factory hinges pins themselves are.

For 40's and up, it's a plus to further reinforce the body panel. That's why the Cavfab Elite includes a 1-piece body panel reinforcement plate that encompasses both hinges and sits on the outside of the panel behind the passenger taillight.

Tying both hinges together with a 1/4"+ plate not only provides vastly more strength compared to 2 separate stamped steel brackets, but being on the opposite side of the anchor point of the hinges would require ripping a large portion of the panel off of the tub. With or without those little plates on the same side of the panel as the hinges, would still only require ripping the mounting hardware out of the panel.

The Cavfab body plate also utilizes unused holes next to the hinges, so the friction joints become stronger due to each hinge being anchored with 4 bolts instead of the original 3.

That "lego" system is fully dependent on having all of its pieces in place, to appreciate any real strength gains.

 

[Jhawth]

Dang OP sorry to hear how the install went. I got lucky I guess, no problems with the hinges and getting the tailgate to close properly. I also installed mine by myself in about 4 hours, maybe closer to 5.

I think the order I went through was to align the tailgate first, tighten the plates mounting to the body, then tighten the plate on the tailgate.

 

[jack bauer]

Dang OP sorry to hear how the install went. I got lucky I guess, no problems with the hinges and getting the tailgate to close properly. I also installed mine by myself in about 4 hours, maybe closer to 5.

I think the order I went through was to align the tailgate first, tighten the plates mounting to the body, then tighten the plate on the tailgate.

Took me about 5-6 hours and needed an extra pair of hands to help out.
It's a beast though. Still rattle-free and gate closes with one finger.

 

[72Blazer]

did mine in a couple of hours. I stripped a torx bolt on the hinge last night that took me 8 hours to extract. But other than that, smooth install.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

J_stew762

Thanks for adding the final installation pictures - you've got to be happy with that.

Question1: License Plate Lights. When I took off my third brake light from my 2019 Rubicon (which I have to find) I'm really pretty darn sure there are no license plate lights on my brake light since my original plate mounts into a recess on the lower left (driver side) of the bumper illuminated by a single light is mounted on the side. So how is it you have two lights on your setup?

Question2: " I wired the license plate lights on a quick disconnect" maybe this has been answered on another thread, but would mind providing some information on that disconnect. Is that inside the tailgate or outside by the CavFab mount?

"I love the look of the factory rear camera, the third break light, and license plate. I wired the license plate lights on a quick disconnect so I can disconnect all wiring (brake light, camera, plate lights) when/if I need to access the spare tire. 1/4 allen head and extension can be used to access it behind the brake light without removing the license plate from its mount."

Thanks

Mike

Hey Mike… do yourself a favor and make it very simple for yourself… look at the Rigid Industries Chase light… I did.a small modification to it where instead of just differentiating between brake and hyper flash aka “chase”, I wired both into the same brake wire via my trailer/tow connector (but there are other methods for wiring if you don’t have a tow package)…. While it is expensive at $290, it not only includes various mounts, wiring and an amazing warranty, while there are many aftermarket options… NONE offer the features this does… strobe, running, brake, scene (very very bright) and tag lights. And if you’re looking for a simplistic way to mount, I did order a relocation bracket specifically made for the Chase and it includes very simple quick disconnect (also included in this post) and they even include the light at a discounted price or you can opt for the cheaper version (same design but not the same quality…. Just an alternative).

https://www.rigidlightshop.com/p-3206-rigid-industries-tail-light-red-chase-rigid-industries.aspx

https://www.kdfabworks.com/Spare-Tire-Carrier-Chase-Light-Mount--Jeep-JL-Wrangler_p_616.html

 

[j_stew762]

10 days later and little to no settling or rattling going on. I rewired my wiring for my license plate light with a water proof disconnect and rewrapped the line with cloth harness tape. I went inside the tailgate and free’d up so more line for the backup camera wire so now I can remove the whole set up and have some excess wire to work with when unclipping everything.

 

[Jackalope]

10 days later and little to no settling or rattling going on. I rewired my wiring for my license plate light with a water proof disconnect and rewrapped the line with cloth harness tape. I went inside the tailgate and free’d up so more line for the backup camera wire so now I can remove the whole set up and have some excess wire to work with when unclipping everything.

Many thanks for the install well documented with pictures. I'm working my way back east to Chicago but once back at home base I'll take a harder look at your setup. Admittedly I'm sill a bit nervous about maintaining the integrity of the camera back mounting connection plate in all-weather conditions.

Mike

 

[Jackalope]

Hey Mike… do yourself a favor and make it very simple for yourself… look at the Rigid Industries Chase light… I did.a small modification to it where instead of just differentiating between brake and hyper flash aka “chase”, I wired both into the same brake wire via my trailer/tow connector (but there are other methods for wiring if you don’t have a tow package)…. While it is expensive at $290, it not only includes various mounts, wiring and an amazing warranty, while there are many aftermarket options… NONE offer the features this does… strobe, running, brake, scene (very very bright) and tag lights. And if you’re looking for a simplistic way to mount, I did order a relocation bracket specifically made for the Chase and it includes very simple quick disconnect (also included in this post) and they even include the light at a discounted price or you can opt for the cheaper version (same design but not the same quality…. Just an alternative).

https://www.rigidlightshop.com/p-3206-rigid-industries-tail-light-red-chase-rigid-industries.aspx

https://www.kdfabworks.com/Spare-Tire-Carrier-Chase-Light-Mount--Jeep-JL-Wrangler_p_616.html

Many thanks for the suggestion and links. My OEM third brake light does not illuminate the license plate so I had to relocate the plate back to its original rear mount so I don't get pulled over. Does the Rigid brand include a white down-light for the license plate?

Mike

 

[72Blazer]

I went with a ORO license plate light and Rigid third brake light. Was more in my budget then and still works fine for my current setup.

https://offroadonly.com/shop/led-li...plate-license-plate-led-light-with-1-harness/

https://www.extremeterrain.com/rugg...TERGPAmng7_V-EWsi9xoCU5gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[j_stew762]

Many thanks for the install well documented with pictures. I'm working my way back east to Chicago but once back at home base I'll take a harder look at your setup. Admittedly I'm sill a bit nervous about maintaining the integrity of the camera back mounting connection plate in all-weather conditions.

Mike

The camera quick disconnect and camera are all factory, just mounted with new hardware and mounting plate from Cavfab. I will say this. I have pushed the license plate/brake light/camera bracket “in” towards the tailgate as much as I can so I can barely get a 1/4invh extension to tighten the one bolt holding it in place. I have a very nice car wash near my house that I have a membership to and run the Jeep through there weekly. I was concerned the rotating wands would rip the bracket right off with how close it was to the edge of the tire and only held in place by a single bolt. Happy to report I’ve been through the wash a few times and it’s a non issue.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

Many thanks for the suggestion and links. My OEM third brake light does not illuminate the license plate so I had to relocate the plate back to its original rear mount so I don't get pulled over. Does the Rigid brand include a white down-light for the license plate?

Mike

Absolutely.

Look closely at the pic. You’ll see it’s a downward light that’s always on when your running lights are on.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

10 days later and little to no settling or rattling going on. I rewired my wiring for my license plate light with a water proof disconnect and rewrapped the line with cloth harness tape. I went inside the tailgate and free’d up so more line for the backup camera wire so now I can remove the whole set up and have some excess wire to work with when unclipping everything.

Looks good but word of advice as not only a veteran Jeep owner (13 thus far not incl XJs, my prize M715 and JTR)… swap out those WeatherPack connectors for Deutsch.. even though they are called “WEATHERPacks” they aren’t really and will deteriorate the plastic over time…. That’s why manufacturers use them under the hood and inside a vehicle… Deutsch are highly resistant to everything and I even use them for my rock lights in lieu of bullet connectors (KC Hilites Cyclone V2)…. You can see how resilient they are just looking at your OBDII connector under you dash…. Not sealed though. You can buy the IP68 rated versions on Amazon for $10-15 and can do 2, 3, 4, etc connectors. Once you start using them, you’ll find more uses. I’ve sank my Jeep in 3-4’ of mud and water, they won’t deteriorate but WeatherPacks will seep water into the contacts within 10min and short your system.

JRready 316PCS Deutsch DT Series Gray Connector Kit in 2 Pin Waterproof Connector,4 Pin Connector with 88 PCS Stamped Formed Contacts(14-18AWG), Deutch Pin Kit, Marine Deutsch Connectors ST6319 https://a.co/d/fUeF3LD

 

[j_stew762]

Looks good but word of advice as not only a veteran Jeep owner (13 thus far not incl XJs, my prize M715 and JTR)… swap out those WeatherPack connectors for Deutsch.. even though they are called “WEATHERPacks” they aren’t really and will deteriorate the plastic over time….

Hey thanks. Always looking for advice, especially the cheap quick fixes!! I started with some bullet connectors because it was what I had laying around, but knew they wouldn’t stand the test of time/weather long term. I’ll pick up a pack or two of those for trail fixes as well.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

Hey thanks. Always looking for advice, especially the cheap quick fixes!! I started with some bullet connectors because it was what I had laying around, but knew they wouldn’t stand the test of time/weather long term. I’ll pick up a pack or two of those for trail fixes as well.

I carry at least 2 sets of each variance from the little 20-22 all the way up to a 12-14 gauge and it takes only a few min to wire up. Just make sure you buy a quality (doesn’t have to be expensive) crimp tool. And anytime you come across a set of deutsch connectors (usually on light bar wiring harnesses or other lighting for off road vehicles, doesn’t matter how cheap or high end, they all use the same company), take 10 min, grab a beer and watch TV, tearing down any unused harnesses or pigtails for extra supplies (you just can’t reuse barrel connectors) and build yourself a spare parts box. On the same note regarding connectors… DO NOT waste your time on stamped (left) and buy barrel (right)… stamped snag on the deutsch and don’t offer solid contact so one bump or bad terrain and your lights will flicker and lose proper connection… makes it “easy” to arch your circuit.

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