Caster help and opinion

[Blackdew]

I’m not sure on the caster I have pictures currently running. I don’t know if they are off.
-2.5 lift
- falcon 3.3 shocks
- metal cloak 2.5 springs
- metal cloak tie rod bar and tie rod
- metal cloak drag link
- yeti HD updated bushing. Track bar
- yeti sector shaft brace
- Baja boss 35x12.50r17 MT D rated.

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[Old Dogger]

The positive Caster on a JL, should be about 6°.

 

[Nokones]

You might need to install adjustable control arms to achieve 6 degrees of caster. I am at 6.7.

Also, you should check your pinion angles. They should not be more than two degrees difference between the pinion and driveshafts. And, depending your ride height, you need to check the length extension of both drivelines.

I'm at least 3 1/2" and I went the Tom Woods Double Cardon 1350 driveshafts.

Make sure that your axles are centered.

 

[GATORB8]

6 Degrees of caster is built into the housing, so if you are dead nuts zero on the housing, you'll be solid.

You didn't mention control arms, are you running stock?

 

[WannFly]

I have read what feels like a million threads on this and watched crap load of videos, I am still confused with this. Based on the pic OP shared, what is his current Caster?

 

[GATORB8]

I have read what feels like a million threads on this and watched crap load of videos, I am still confused with this. Based on the pic OP shared, what is his current Caster?

He's varying side to side a little. The housing shots are -2 to -3 degrees so 3-4 degrees after taking the 6 into account. Same reading at the knuckles, but you don't have to add the 6 there.

IIRC, the driveshaft flange isn't dead square, and that's why his measurement there is funky.

 

[Aonarch]

I have read what feels like a million threads on this and watched crap load of videos, I am still confused with this. Based on the pic OP shared, what is his current Caster?

I need him to zoom out, it takes some squinting to see where, or if he measured correctly.

 

[WannFly]

He's varying side to side a little. The housing shots are -2 to -3 degrees so 3-4 degrees after taking the 6 into account. Same reading at the knuckles, but you don't have to add the 6 there.

IIRC, the driveshaft flange isn't dead square, and that's why his measurement there is funky.

I will post some pics of my measurements, may be start a new thread and not derail this one. I took the Jeep to a Jeep shop after lift and they said they set the caster to 6.5. I was crawling around last night and based on my reading, I think its set to 4

 

[oceanblue2019]

I’m not sure on the caster I have pictures currently running. I don’t know if they are off.
-2.5 lift
- falcon 3.3 shocks
- metal cloak 2.5 springs
- metal cloak tie rod bar and tie rod
- metal cloak drag link
- yeti HD updated bushing. Track bar
- yeti sector shaft brace
- Baja boss 35x12.50r17 MT D rated.

Hard to tell how you are setup without knowing if the Jeep is on a level surface and under its own weight.

I go by John Curries setup advice that has worked for 25 years of Jeep ownership.

On an axle with 6 degrees of separation from pinion shaft to C's (all JL factory axles) you want to run 5 degree caster and allow 1 degree of pinion "up" at ride height. Jeep should drive well with 5 degrees if everything else setup correctly. You can go to 6 degrees if still steering issues but not more. For the rear setup no more than 2 degree of pinion angle/driveshaft angle difference; ideally 1 or less.

If you are investing in aftermarket axles get them with 10 degree of separation as then you can run 6 or 7 degrees caster and still pinion pointed upwards.

This simple advice can take some time/parts to get in place but once done I've never had a Jeep not drive well or have driveline issues. The only exception was the JL aluminum box fiasco which was fixed with the steel box.

 

[Blackdew]

I’ll take pictures where I place the angle.
like one person said I’ve read and watched numerous videos and still don’t get it. I have adjustable front and lowers coming today I wanna put on. Jeep rides well but I still feel a dead spot and very slight shimmy, ball joints are new as well.

rear is off by a half a inch the front is off center slightly.

 

[GATORB8]

I’ll take pictures where I place the angle.
like one person said I’ve read and watched numerous videos and still don’t get it. I have adjustable front and lowers coming today I wanna put on. Jeep rides well but I still feel a dead spot and very slight shimmy, ball joints are new as well.

rear is off by a half a inch the front is off center slightly.

Total front control arm change is 1/2" for the 3.5" MC on the upper. With the 2.5s you could probably do one full rotation under that. Mopar lift change is 1/4" on the lower, so between 1/4" and 3/8" will probably get you in a good spot.

ONE AT A TIME on the swap!!! Do it on the ground. Chock the tires and roll it to get the bolts to line up.

 

[jadmt]

your jeep needs to be parked on a completely level surface to get accurate with those kind of angle finders.. garage floors can have some slope for drainage.

 

[Blackdew]

Total front control arm change is 1/2" for the 3.5" MC on the upper. With the 2.5s you could probably do one full rotation under that. Mopar lift change is 1/4" on the lower, so between 1/4" and 3/8" will probably get you in a good spot.

ONE AT A TIME on the swap!!! Do it on the ground. Chock the tires and roll it to get the bolts to line up.

Thank you for this, I’ll Measure hole to hole.

 

[Blackdew]

your jeep needs to be parked on a completely level surface to get accurate with those kind of angle finders.. garage floors can have some slope for drainage.

oh yea! I know I put wood under the tires and did it!

 

[Nokones]

Whatever the vehicle sits on, the floor or a platform, needs to be either bubble or laser level, the tires at hot pressures, and a half of tank of fuel, and preferably with the driver's weight.

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