Axle reinforcement or not

[TNShaker]

I have a 2024 JLU Sport 3.6 auto that I am hoping to build out this year, I have most parts planned and I will be doing 2.5 Clayton lift with 35" tires, re-gear and Eaton TT front and rear. I will not be rock crawling ever, just street and some TN mountain trails. The one thing i am not sure on is should I do anything to add strength to the axel, ball joints and c gusset. I assume since staying at 35s I should be OK, but since I do not have Rubicon axels I am not positive. I do not ever plan to go over 35s for street ability and do not want to do an axel swap.

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[Trails]

What type of trails will the TN mountain trails be like? If they are just gravel / dirt roads, then I wouldn't do anything. A stock Sport is plenty enough. Save the money, and spend it on a fun trip somewhere.

 

[Odyssey USA]

I have a 2024 JLU Sport 3.6 auto that I am hoping to build out this year, I have most parts planned and I will be doing 2.5 Clayton lift with 35" tires, re-gear and Eaton TT front and rear. I will not be rock crawling ever, just street and some TN mountain trails. The one thing i am not sure on is should I do anything to add strength to the axel, ball joints and c gusset. I assume since staying at 35s I should be OK, but since I do not have Rubicon axels I am not positive. I do not ever plan to go over 35s for street ability and do not want to do an axel swap.

As to strength of the housing itself, compared to a Regular JL Rubicon, same strength. The axle tubes are the same wall thickness and diameter. If you’re taking some tight switchbacks, switching from u joints to RCV axle shafts would get rid of hopping in 4wd with the steering at full lock. If you regear and have the M200 rear, you can upgrade to 32 spline Gladiator tow package narrow axle spec Yukon forged axles with a different carrier. Ox Locker is what I used in the rear to accomplish this. Great setup. That said, the weak point becomes the smaller pinion vs the M220 but I’ve not heard of a M200 breaking there since I joined the community 5 years ago. I opted for the electric actuation. 4.56 Dana gears btw.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

I’m on 35”s with the stock gears on my 19 sport s. Only thing I do is rocks(blue rated or a blue/black) and have been fine with no reinforcement. Once my stock gears go bad my plan is to add the TT and probably 4.56 also.

 

[AcesandEights]

Nothing you need to do. Chive on, or whatever they say.

 

[roaniecowpony]

If you don't bomb down the roads and hit large bumps, reinforcement isn't needed. Trussing is for that really big hit.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

IMO unless you are a balls to the walls kind of driver, the JL axles and c's are pretty solid as-is for 35s. That said, when I had mine regeared since the axles were disassembled anyway, and welding trusses on them was only a few extra hundred, I went ahead and had it done. Again, I don't think I need them but they look cool if anyone is ever looking up under my skirt.

 

[TNShaker]

What type of trails will the TN mountain trails be like? If they are just gravel / dirt roads, then I wouldn't do anything. A stock Sport is plenty enough. Save the money, and spend it on a fun trip somewhere.

Some decent slopes, creeks, mud. Not trails I would do in a stock sport but I never planned keeping it stock. My JKU had the lift and lsd too, never needed my winch.

 

[zouch]

i'm going to ASSuME your lift includes all the proper steering bits (adjustable Track Bars and rear relocation brkt, Drag Link, front Track Bar/steering box reinforcement, Tie Rod) and probably longer/adjustable LCAs.
i'm not as familiar with what;s under the '24s, but i'm also assuming you've already verified you're not working with the Aluminum Steering Box or Knuckles, or i'd get those updated first.

but especially since you mentioned it, i'd be looking at doing a set of proper replaceable heavy-duty ball joints while you're there just to help address one of the most common points of failure leading to Death Wobble.
the factory plastic ball joints are junk; running with even 35s will make that evident much more quickly.

after that you sound like you're on a good track to having some sane fun. enjoy!

 

[TNShaker]

IMO unless you are a balls to the walls kind of driver, the JL axles and c's are pretty solid as-is for 35s. That said, when I had mine regeared since the axles were disassembled anyway, and welding trusses on them was only a few extra hundred, I went ahead and had it done. Again, I don't think I need them but they look cool if anyone is ever looking up under my skirt.

That is what I was considering, it will be all disassembled anyway so if needed then would be the time.

 

[TNShaker]

i'm going to ASSuME your lift includes all the proper steering bits (adjustable Track Bars and rear relocation brkt, Drag Link, front Track Bar/steering box reinforcement, Tie Rod) and probably longer/adjustable LCAs.
i'm not as familiar with what;s under the '24s, but i'm also assuming you've already verified you're not working with the Aluminum Steering Box or Knuckles, or i'd get those updated first.

but especially since you mentioned it, i'd be looking at doing a set of proper replaceable heavy-duty ball joints while you're there just to help address one of the most common points of failure leading to Death Wobble.
the factory plastic ball joints are junk; running with even 35s will make that evident much more quickly.

after that you sound like you're on a good track to having some sane fun. enjoy!

I did figure ball joints at a minimum, plan on spending a few grand so those don’t add a whole lot to the cost.

 

[dragoneggs]

Some decent slopes, creeks, mud. Not trails I would do in a stock sport but I never planned keeping it stock. My JKU had the lift and lsd too, never needed my winch.

If you aren’t using your winch, you ain’t trying hard enough.

 

[TNShaker]

If you aren’t using your winch, you ain’t trying hard enough.

I hope to fix that after I get this one ready.

 

[jbcrane]

I have a 2024 JLU Sport 3.6 auto that I am hoping to build out this year, I have most parts planned and I will be doing 2.5 Clayton lift with 35" tires, re-gear and Eaton TT front and rear. I will not be rock crawling ever, just street and some TN mountain trails. The one thing i am not sure on is should I do anything to add strength to the axel, ball joints and c gusset. I assume since staying at 35s I should be OK, but since I do not have Rubicon axels I am not positive. I do not ever plan to go over 35s for street ability and do not want to do an axel swap.

You should be just fine as is. I did the 2" Mopar lift and went to 315's on my M186/M220 set. I also re-geared to 4.88. It's been 2 years and multiple trails more difficult than what you're describing and it's solid as a rock. When time comes I'll upgrade ball joints, etc. but for time being everything has help up great. Your driving style has a lot to do with it too.

 

[Willys41]

That is what I was considering, it will be all disassembled anyway so if needed then would be the time.

What I see watching YouTube videos like Matt's off road and trailmater off road recover is the front axle U-joint fails and ether pops the ball joints out or brakes the aluminum knuckles no mater what size tires they are running.
I think RCV axle shafts would be in your case the only thing I would consider and maybe ball joints also.
Other components will ware out put in most cases wont brake.

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