Audio System Aftermarket Upgrade

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snipertt

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Nice Job! We have very comparable setups. I can tell you that you are going to f'n love the VXi amp! Did you get the DRC-205 (Dual knob, color-coded profile selector)? I've had mine for about a month and permanently mounted it last night. Enjoy your system!
Thanks! Yes, I love it and did get the DRC-205. It’s installed by the cup holders:

BDB4E5DC-16E2-43C9-9280-FCC3A0B62E9E.jpeg
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Sting_NC_USA

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Thanks! Yes, I love it and did get the DRC-205. It’s installed by the cup holders:

BDB4E5DC-16E2-43C9-9280-FCC3A0B62E9E.jpeg
You wouldn't happen to have $1.54 I could borrow, would you? ;)
 

47Jeepster

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... The amps are mounted on 1”spacers in the cargo box which has a drain hole. Unless I submerge the vehicle, it should be fine!
Love the idea of it looking stock, but not ... good work.

You might monitor the temps in the cargo box. It's right over the muffler. Yes, there is a heat shield, but my experience is that it's not adequate. Threw the metal clips from the trail management system in the cargo box when I picked up the Jeep. When I got home, I went to install them ... they were too hot to hold. That means they were above ~140 degrees F. The cargo box would make a great food warmer!
 

TXJeepScientist

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Big question, with the new installs, did the installs affect other systems? And how about factory warranties?

Thanks,
Steve R.
 

Sting_NC_USA

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Big question, with the new installs, did the installs affect other systems? And how about factory warranties?

Thanks,
Steve R.
No issues with other systems, Steve. We're tapping directly into the battery for power, and pulling a signal directly from the system's speaker wires. There's really nothing feeding back into the stock system.

Of course, there's always the Magnuson-Moss act to fall back on, but with a vehicle that's this popular for aftermarket mods, the stereo typically wouldn't be the cause of electrical issues.

Now, if someone were to wire a high power amp off of an electrical component that is "system dependent" like the Jeep's main computer system, yeah, that could be a problem.

Hope that helps!
 

aml

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I just got my JLUR back from the installers. Although I had the Alpine Premium system, I wanted a little (lot) more. My requirements were: The head unit stays, no custom looking additions (lights, etc...), and no permanent alterations. The system sounds totally amazing now with or without the top! Here is what I put into the jeep:

Front knee panel: Audiofrog GB40
Dash: Audiofrog GB15 tweeter
Sound bar: Audiofrog GB40 and GB10 tweeters
JL audio VX800/8i amp for the mids and tweeters
JL audio 10TW3-D4 subwoofer
JL audio XD300/1v2 amp for subwoofer
PAC ampPRO amplifier replacement interface

Don't get me wrong, the Alpine was fine, but this is 1000X better!
IMG_1677.jpg
IMG_1678.jpg
IMG_1680.jpg
IMG_1678.jpg
A little JL for the JL...nice
 
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snipertt

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Love the idea of it looking stock, but not ... good work.

You might monitor the temps in the cargo box. It's right over the muffler. Yes, there is a heat shield, but my experience is that it's not adequate. Threw the metal clips from the trail management system in the cargo box when I picked up the Jeep. When I got home, I went to install them ... they were too hot to hold. That means they were above ~140 degrees F. The cargo box would make a great food warmer!
I appreciate the warning, and really encourage a second opinion, but I have driven ~250 miles in NC August weather with the amps in the cargo hold. I think that the new subs are capable of handling extreme temps. Hopefully!
 
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snipertt

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Are all the speakers plug and play as far as size goes?
Not plug and play, as far as hole line up goes, but as close to it as possible. The audio frogs have included mounting hardware that makes it "plug and play".
 

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I appreciate the warning, and really encourage a second opinion, but I have driven ~250 miles in NC August weather with the amps in the cargo hold. I think that the new subs are capable of handling extreme temps. Hopefully!
You're probably OK with that location and heat. Obviously, if you were pushing them very hard, for a long period of time, they'd have a higher chance of entering their thermal protection mode. That said, they should be OK for everyday, normal use. They will run hotter than normal, which could shorten their production life, but not likely by much.

Play 'em until they hit thermal shut-down, and if that happens, consider a fan. Otherwise... Jam on it! (Wikki, Wikki, Wikki, Wikki - most won't get that, sorry!)
 

Wrangler-Freak

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Hello
I have the Wrangler jl sahara with the alpine sound system,

Which adapter do I need for the AP4-CH21 or the AP4-CH41?

would like to install other speakers and amplifiers

the parking sensors continue to work with ``peep``

does the original radio not switch off due to the load-sensing function?
Do I have to pay attention?

sorry for my bad English :)
 
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Tpham

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I just got my JLUR back from the installers. Although I had the Alpine Premium system, I wanted a little (lot) more. My requirements were: The head unit stays, no custom looking additions (lights, etc...), and no permanent alterations. The system sounds totally amazing now with or without the top! Here is what I put into the jeep:

Front knee panel: Audiofrog GB40
Dash: Audiofrog GB15 tweeter
Sound bar: Audiofrog GB40 and GB10 tweeters
JL audio VX800/8i amp for the mids and tweeters
JL audio 10TW3-D4 subwoofer
JL audio XD300/1v2 amp for subwoofer
PAC ampPRO amplifier replacement interface

Don't get me wrong, the Alpine was fine, but this is 1000X better!
IMG_1677.jpg
IMG_1678.jpg
IMG_1680.jpg
IMG_1678.jpg
would the pac ampro work for non alpine as a t harness type thing?
 

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Hi All,

Just a question for anyone that may have actually completed a DIY upgrade of the Alpine Sub. I removed the Hex bolts/surround last night and was not able to pry the sub from the enclosure. I was using several heavy pry tools and it seems to be anchored from behind as all four corners are loose yet it will not release.

I'm looking to replace it with an Alpine SWR-T10 which has a similar mounting depth as the JL pictured but I don't want to break anything on the first step of the install.

Thanks ahead of time.
 

StereoRubicon

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Hi All,

Just a question for anyone that may have actually completed a DIY upgrade of the Alpine Sub. I removed the Hex bolts/surround last night and was not able to pry the sub from the enclosure. I was using several heavy pry tools and it seems to be anchored from behind as all four corners are loose yet it will not release.

I'm looking to replace it with an Alpine SWR-T10 which has a similar mounting depth as the JL pictured but I don't want to break anything on the first step of the install.

Thanks ahead of time.
I am pretty sure there’s a bolt in the back of the sub holding it in so the entire enclosure needs to be removed to pull the sub. I'm curious what the dimensions are of the OEM enclosure. Let me know if you pull yours apart. Our new JL won’t be here for a month
 

Ocbuckeye

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Hi All,

Just a question for anyone that may have actually completed a DIY upgrade of the Alpine Sub. I removed the Hex bolts/surround last night and was not able to pry the sub from the enclosure. I was using several heavy pry tools and it seems to be anchored from behind as all four corners are loose yet it will not release.

I'm looking to replace it with an Alpine SWR-T10 which has a similar mounting depth as the JL pictured but I don't want to break anything on the first step of the install.

Thanks ahead of time.
A few details on my removal of the stock Alpine sub enclosure for inspection and upgrade:

There is one single screw holding the enclosure to the body. It is located at the front of the enclosure nearest to the rear seat:
I used a t20 bit for removal.

I also removed the rear rubber seal at the rear swing gate.

Next I removed the seatbelt plastic surround and began to pry on the enclosure with my hands and pressure until all of the clips had released. I used where applicable, panel tools and pry tools but ultimately could not get the bottom post clip to release. Why?
The are 6 unique round main clips attaching the enclosure to metal posts. These are very difficult to release. I ended up cracking it on the bottom post clip but was able to get it out without destroying the clip

There are also several standard clips, these easily release.

Is has a single harness that is easy to unclip. Once this is complete, I was able to pull it out and inspect.
It does have a screw at the back of the enclosure mounting the subwoofer to the enclosure.

Sub removal: T30 bit, 8 hex screws.
There are four wiring harnesses to the sub inside the enclosure connecting the sub to 4 coils(?)

Green, Orange, Gray and Brown (+ and -)

I posted a few pics of the main components as well as the front and back of the enclosure, the rear of the sub and of the enclosure inside.

Hope this can some way help someone else.

AD8FD2AA-D7C8-4495-A002-4FEC19F600FD.jpeg


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