Any MB Quart System Install Tips & Tricks?

[Terpsmandan]

So I finally got the rest of it installed. I cleaned out the soundbar one Sunday morning. Took about 2 hour’s including a trip to buy a new dremel. About two hours to finish trimming the sound bar, deaden it and install the 6x9’s. Also deadened the lower dash speaker. Started into the rest of the install this morning at 8am. Had the soundbar wired and got the dash speakers in in about three hours. Started the amp install and got the power wire routed, crimped, and attached to the battery and it started to rain. Went inside and mounted the amps. I also got a 400.1 for the future sub install. The kit comes with a nice long piece of speaker wire that plugs directly into the 400.1. The rain stopped and I got it wired. Tried to fire it up and forgot to attach the ground…. All is well. Had everything reassembled by 1:30. So five and one half hours for that portion. If I were to do it again I would make sure I have a 7mm and.10mm box ratchet. The 7 for the lower side panel screws and the 10mm for the bolts on the steering wheel support. Running gains at around the 12 o’clock position. At those settings the sub kinda gets lost. Next project is the JL Audio 10TW3 4 ohm to replace the oem Alpine off that 400.1.

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[jim00]

Finished my install over the weekend. Thanks for the responses. Betwixt here and some of the other threads, it really saved me a lot of heartburn.

Since I drive an M/T, my firewall penetration is actually behind the cabin air filter, so wire routing was a little different but very straightforward. I added fiberfill to ALL of the cavities including the upper dash. Also installed some "Dynamat" like material in all the accessible areas possible, and this has made a huge difference.

I had the top and doors off driving I-25 yesterday and cranked up I could clearly hear the music cruising at 75.

The one major issue I have is the stock subwoofer. I didn't realize how much it would bother me, and I have to artificially keep the amp gain down low to balance out the underpowered sub. I reached out to MB Quart to get their subwoofer amp, but unfortunately, they are out of stock now due to supply chain issues. Now I REALLY want to replace the Alpine sub and amp. Once I figure out what will work for me (trying to keep the OEM look and stock housing as much as possible) this will be a major necessity.

I have the M/T as well - where did you route through - happen to have any pics? Thanks!

 

[USAFREODRetired]

I have the M/T as well - where did you route through - happen to have any pics? Thanks!

No pics, I'll try to get some when I install my Midland GMRS. The pass-through is on the passenger side under the battery tray from the engine side. There are actually several wire bundles that pass through that point.

 

[jim00]

No pics, I'll try to get some when I install my Midland GMRS. The pass-through is on the passenger side under the battery tray from the engine side. There are actually several wire bundles that pass through that point.

Got it - thanks!

 

[Terpsmandan]

The one major issue I have is the stock subwoofer. I didn't realize how much it would bother me, and I have to artificially keep the amp gain down low to balance out the underpowered sub. I reached out to MB Quart to get their subwoofer amp, but unfortunately, they are out of stock now due to supply chain issues. Now I REALLY want to replace the Alpine sub and amp. Once I figure out what will work for me (trying to keep the OEM look and stock housing as much as possible) this will be a major necessity.

So along with the 70 or so invaluable emails with Quart support, Dave let me know that they are about to release a drop in sub for the 4 door. I did get a 400.1 and tried the JL Audio and Kicker sub. I could not get the JL to work and the Kicker bolt circle is about 1/2 inch too small to be screwed to the trim ring. For now I have the 400.1 running the stock sub. We will see how long it lasts...

 

[Terpsmandan]

Quart replaced one of the fuzzy pod drivers and I got the stock sub working off the the Quart 400.1. I set the gains with a scope and a -3bd test track at 40 and 1000 hz. I have the bass boast on and the knob and about half. Sounding good so far and i can turn the knob up for the classic rock stuff. Going to go back and reset the gains with. -5db tone. Stock sub is handling the power so far.

 

[El Jefe]

I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I just finished installing the front 4 speakers, and thought I'd add these tips:

1. Have a 7mm offset ratcheting box wrench, like this one:

Even a stubby screwdriver doesn't work on some of those screws, but this does.

2. Similarly, a 7mm socket and one of these ratchets helps a lot.

3. Of course, you need trim tools.

4. Lastly, I'd add a step to the generally really well done MB Quart instructions. When doing the driver's side, tape off the gaps on the upper side of the Jeep's lower kick panel cover. A couple of the screws really want to go down there when dropped. Save yourself some time & just tape them off.

 

[Terpsmandan]

400.1 is still playing well with the stock sub. Currently running with the bass boost on and using the bass knob from the AmpPro to adjust to taste. Probably going to go back and reset the gains with a -7db tone. I am still running out of volume knob on some older songs.

 

[avnmech]

I installed my MB Quart STG6AH-1 and the Sub, and I have to say it’s freaking amazing. The instructions on the MB Quart website were decent but wanted you to take more of the dash apart than you need to. I went as far as I needed to to get the lower pods out, basically loosening the plastic enough to bend it out of the way without breaking it, and wiggling the pod out of the dash. Once the pods are out run the fronts wire to the amp, it’s easier with the pods out. For the 6x9s you don’t need to take the entire sound bar out, just remove the front and rear floor sill plastic, the mid plastic where the rear door plug it and loosen the upper plastic, remove the dome light plastic, unplug the speaker wire and route it down the b pillar to the amp, replace all of the plastic, except the door sill plastic, as you’ll need to get to that area to run sub wires. Now to mount the 6x9s remove the covers, speakers and ports, put blue painter tape on the speaker surface, then put the 6x9 ring up on the sound bar and use a marker of some sort and draw the outline of the 6x9. Lay down and old bed sheet over the seats and the rear seats and use a electric plunge knife to cut out along the line you drew, BE SURE NOT TO CUT THE SPEAKER WIRES. The rest to the install is pretty straight forward from there. The sub though pretty light hit pretty hard, I mean you not gonna will any sound competitions, but this system is leaps and bounds above the stock ALPINE system,’and just about the same cost. This will be my go to system for any JL/JT that I get in the future!

 

[Terpsmandan]

Since installing the sub last January, at the recommendation of @Hpc3 , I replaced the AmpPro with a Fosgate DSR-1 and PLC 2 knob. It was good before, but the Punch EQ IMO sounds better. Also adds a full DSP that you can run with an iPad app. After fall top swap I am planning to head to a stereo shop and have it hooked to an RTA and get it tuned.

 

[DarkWater]

Like a few others, I pulled the trigger on the full Stage 6 MB Quart system with the MtnWest discount code.

Looking for tips, tricks, and recommendations for the installation.

When I have the dash apart, what else should I do? Anything else I should add to improve the system performance?

Anyone add fiberfill or Dynamat? Where and how much?

Any other items that would make installation faster, better, easier?

Thanks

I installed the full system on my 2024. BEWARE! The system itself is amazing but it’s not really for the 2024 and I had to relay back and forth to get the proper connectors so I didn’t have to cut wires and the amp module. The module glitches and has caused non stop issues electronically. Supposedly their working on a fix….

 

[Terpsmandan]

I had heard that there were issues getting the 2024 HU to talk to an AmpPro. At the recommendation on @Hpc3 I pulled the dash, knee pod and 6x9's and replaced them with Infinity Reference series speaker. Ref3032cfxfor the dash, the drivers out of a set of Ref6530cx, and a set of Ref9633ix 6x9's. They are lower impedance with higher efficiency so I have been turning the bass knob up higher than I used to to balance the system. Once the hardtop goes back on in October, I will take it to the local shop and get it tuned with the PerfectTune app and an RTA.

 

[wandrur]

My install on my 2025 sounds amazing, and I haven't run into any issues that I didn't cause myself during the install (and have since addressed).

I got the 2024+ complete kit from Trail Seven.

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