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Installing MB Quart stage 6 with Stinger head unit. Tips wanted.

Ender

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As the title says I’ve got a Stinger Heigh 10 head unit and I’m about to install the MBQuart stage 6 setup. I know this isn’t an uncommon setup so I was hoping that if anyone had any advice or tips to make the install go smoother they could share them. It all seems straight forward but the Stinger was tedious so I figured I would post first here.
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avnmech

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I have the same set up and have bought the MB Quart STG6AH-1 and the Sub that mounts in place of the Alpine sub on the JLU. I am hoping to install it this week. I will update after I get it all installed.
 

Terpsmandan

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I watched a couple of disassembly videos on YouTube. Quart does have a YouTube video as well. I did not realize that the soundbar came out with 4 bolts. Probably would have pulled it for the 6x9 install. Also a 7mm offset box ratchet is useful or unstrap the doors to get better access to the one 7mm that is not easily accessible. Also a 10mm and 8mm box end ratchet would have made the drivers side easier to complete. Quart says not to remove the pass seat. I wish I had done that. Took about 2 hours for the soundbar including a trip to TSC around the corner for a new Dremel. Did that one Sunday morning. Front end and amps took about 8 hours on another day. Sub takes about an hour. I also used a dynamat clone for the pods, soundbar and the sub. Applied the mat to the inside and the backside of the sub enclosre.
 

avnmech

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I installed my MB Quart STG6AH-1 and the Sub, and I have to say it’s freaking amazing. The instructions on the MB Quart website were decent but wanted you to take more of the dash apart than you need to. I went as far as I needed to to get the lower pods out, basically loosening the plastic enough to bend it out of the way without breaking it, and wiggling the pod out of the dash. Once the pods are out run the fronts wire to the amp, it’s easier with the pods out. For the 6x9s you don’t need to take the entire sound bar out, just remove the front and rear floor sill plastic, the mid plastic where the rear door plug it and loosen the upper plastic, remove the dome light plastic, unplug the speaker wire and route it down the b pillar to the amp, replace all of the plastic, except the door sill plastic, as you’ll need to get to that area to run sub wires. Now to mount the 6x9s remove the covers, speakers and ports, put blue painter tape on the speaker surface, then put the 6x9 ring up on the sound bar and use a marker of some sort and draw the outline of the 6x9. Lay down and old bed sheet over the seats and the rear seats and use a electric plunge knife to cut out along the line you drew, BE SURE NOT TO CUT THE SPEAKER WIRES. The rest to the install is pretty straight forward from there. The sub though pretty light hit pretty hard, I mean you not gonna will any sound competitions, but this system is leaps and bounds above the stock ALPINE system,’and just about the same cost. This will be my go to system for any JL/JT that I get in the future!
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