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Antirocks; .850" bar vs 1" bar?

zouch

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(i tried asking this question as an aside in another thread, but it seems to have gotten lost in the weeds.)

anyone have experience to share going from the .850" bars to the 1" bar ?
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The difference in diameter seems insignificant. I can’t imagine a noticeable difference between the two.
 

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*nobody* here ever used both .850" and 1" bars?
I see that you have a diesel Willys. How is your Jeep set up? If it's a heavier build for overlanding or whatnot, the 1" bars are recommended. If not, stick to the .850" bars.
 

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The difference in diameter seems insignificant. I can’t imagine a noticeable difference between the two.
I wouldn't at all say its insignificant.

.770" bars are recommended for regularly built Jeeps with either the 2.0 or 3.6 engines.

.850" is for diesels, 392's, 4xe's, or heavily built 2.0's and 3.6's set up for overlanding. Or any JT's.

1" is for JL diesels, 392's, 4xe's, and JT's set up for overlanding.

Using a heavier bar than what's recommended will lead to overly stiff on road driving and reduced articulation offroad.

I have the .770's front and rear on my JLUR that is set up for crawling. The rear arms have 2 mounting positions for the sway bar links. There's a felt difference just switching between those 2 locations, the inner hole being firmer and the outer being a bit softer.

You should read the threads from those who added a Hellwig rear bar and complained about getting only minimal articulation offroad.
 

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zouch

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if you think of it in a change in the percentage of materials being subjected to force, it's quite significant; far more than the difference between the .770s and the .850s.

that's why i'm really hoping to stir up a review from someone who has real-life experience using both, not just imagined it.


The difference in diameter seems insignificant. I can’t imagine a noticeable difference between the two.
 
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zouch

zouch

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yeah, i'm familiar with the general guidelines. but they are very "general" and the Currie crews are known for kinda' figuring things out as they go and espousing that whatever they're doing at the moment is the best thing ever; point in case being that they didn't even come out with .850 bar for a while and the 1" bar even later after they figured that an even thicker one might be needed.
that's why i'm hoping to find someone with the experience with both to share.
i generally prefer learning from other peoples mistakes if i can as opposed to having to make all of them myself. ;)

FWIW, i've tried to keep my build somewhere in-between the tube-frame crawlers and the 'Overlanding' motorhomes; more of a do-everything DD that will crawl with a full camp load on the way to a cool campsite in the Dez or mtns, capitalizing on the innate capabilities of being able to spend a week crawling around in Moab, do a 16 hour highway drive home across the Dez and over the Sierra, and commute to work the next day.
basics now include a Mopar/Fox lift with Teraflex Track Bars, LCAs and steering, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs (on the way to 37s) on Mopar bead locks, Mopar offroad bumper with 10K Warn winch, and sliders and full aluminum bellypan armor by Artec. next steps include Cro-Mo axle shafts, but i'll probably call it done underneath after minimal axle upgrades (since the Diesels already came with Dana 44s front and rear).
i have no plans to do a roof-top tent because sometimes i don't want a roof, and sometimes i need the roof for bikes and boats. i also don't like the higher CoG when getting tippy and the increased wind profile that they present on the hwy. i've been OK tent camping so far; the Mrs doesn't always come along and is getting to where she's less enthusiastic about the trips that don't include a motel room/cabin with a shower and a bathroom anyway.

right now i'm not overly fond of how 'light' the steering is on the hwy with the Antirocks (i've adjusted the ATS Steering Stabilizer back and forth looking for a sweet spot); they've done a good job of evening out the balance between the overly stiff front and overly soft rear stock anti-sway bars, but they make the rig so 'loose' in the middle that there's almost no perceived feedback to minor steering inputs to the point that it's kinda' like steering on Novocaine. (the steering inputs *do* make the steering changes, but it's absorbed in the flex to the degree that you don't really feel it, encouraging one to constantly over-correct because there's no perceived feedback that anything happened until you've 'over-input'.)
i don't need it to drive like my BMW Convertible or one of my old autocrossers, but i'd like it if it didn't feel so 'loose' in the middle if i could get there without losing the articulation off-road.


I see that you have a diesel Willys. How is your Jeep set up? If it's a heavier build for overlanding or whatnot, the 1" bars are recommended. If not, stick to the .850" bars.
 

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yeah, i'm familiar with the general guidelines. but they are very "general" and the Currie crews are known for kinda' figuring things out as they go and espousing that whatever they're doing at the moment is the best thing ever; point in case being that they didn't even come out with .850 bar for a while and the 1" bar even later after they figured that an even thicker one might be needed.
that's why i'm hoping to find someone with the experience with both to share.
i generally prefer learning from other peoples mistakes if i can as opposed to having to make all of them myself. ;)

FWIW, i've tried to keep my build somewhere in-between the tube-frame crawlers and the 'Overlanding' motorhomes; more of a do-everything DD that will crawl with a full camp load on the way to a cool campsite in the Dez or mtns, capitalizing on the innate capabilities of being able to spend a week crawling around in Moab, do a 16 hour highway drive home across the Dez and over the Sierra, and commute to work the next day.
basics now include a Mopar/Fox lift with Teraflex Track Bars, LCAs and steering, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs (on the way to 37s) on Mopar bead locks, Mopar offroad bumper with 10K Warn winch, and sliders and full aluminum bellypan armor by Artec. next steps include Cro-Mo axle shafts, but i'll probably call it done underneath after minimal axle upgrades (since the Diesels already came with Dana 44s front and rear).
i have no plans to do a roof-top tent because sometimes i don't want a roof, and sometimes i need the roof for bikes and boats. i also don't like the higher CoG when getting tippy and the increased wind profile that they present on the hwy. i've been OK tent camping so far; the Mrs doesn't always come along and is getting to where she's less enthusiastic about the trips that don't include a motel room/cabin with a shower and a bathroom anyway.

right now i'm not overly fond of how 'light' the steering is on the hwy with the Antirocks (i've adjusted the ATS Steering Stabilizer back and forth looking for a sweet spot); they've done a good job of evening out the balance between the overly stiff front and overly soft rear stock anti-sway bars, but they make the rig so 'loose' in the middle that there's almost no perceived feedback to minor steering inputs to the point that it's kinda' like steering on Novocaine. (the steering inputs *do* make the steering changes, but it's absorbed in the flex to the degree that you don't really feel it, encouraging one to constantly over-correct because there's no perceived feedback that anything happened until you've 'over-input'.)
i don't need it to drive like my BMW Convertible or one of my old autocrossers, but i'd like it if it didn't feel so 'loose' in the middle if i could get there without losing the articulation off-road.
You mentioned upgraded lca's. Do you still have oem control arms in play? If so, they are prone to flexing in the arms themselves due to their light duty construction. That could be causing the loose mid ship feeling.
 
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zouch

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interesting thought; UCAs are indeed OEM.
but since i didn't have this issue before changing only the Antirocks, i'm doubtful that the CAs are the root of the issue.
i may end up changing them out sometime down the trail if i want to get into relocating the axle/frame relationship, but they're very far down The List. (we all have a 'List', right? ;) ) knowing myself, if i were to do any more of the CAs, i'd want to to all of them, and that means 2 more pair on the rear, too,.. ?

right now, since the Fox 2.5"s are rebuildable and customizable, rebuilding the shocks would be a higher priority in that area.


You mentioned upgraded lca's. Do you still have oem control arms in play? If so, they are prone to flexing in the arms themselves due to their light duty construction. That could be causing the loose mid ship feeling.
 
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zouch

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so,..

i did actually do the front UCAs and it makes things feel nicer, but found that the bigger problem is the clamps on arms of the Anti-Rocks have been loosening up.
i’ve re-torqued them with a bit of blue anti-sieze and that seems to be helping, but time will tell if i’ll be able to get them to stay.
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