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ANOTHER Towing Thread (Sorry, Not Sorry)

Oldbear

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I’d go along with the other guys and urge you to reconsider. I’d be willing to bet you will not be truly happy with the setup you describe. Also that tongue weight looks way light from here. You may find the tail wagging the dog here😳
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Jimac

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First off before everyone gets mad at me for not researching other threads first, I cannot tell you how many different threads I've read through. Not just skimmed through, but read everything. I've found some very helpful information throughout all of them, but really just wanted to get my specific situation out there and pick your brains. So here we go:

Some specs for you guys so you know what rig setup I'm dealing with:
2018 JLU Sport | Dana 30/35, gear ratio 3.45 | NO TOWING PACKAGE | 37s w 3in lift (let's stick to the issue at hand: Towing. Yes I have 37s with a sport and dana 30s lol upgrades/precautions will be taken before towing, basically the whole reason for this thread.)

What will be towed:
small travel trailer DRY WEIGHT: 2900/270 | trailer brakes equipped | 2021 JAY FLIGHT SLX 7 195RB (if you want the exact model for reference, 95% of use will be RV hookups and not boondocking filling fresh/grey/black)

Main Concerns/Upgrades I'm looking into and would like feedback on:

- WDH Hitch: This one isn't too difficult to determine what to go with, just some opinions on what you've used. Compare and contrast! Also on a side note, anyone run into issues with the spare tire hitting the tongue jack while towing (especially with me having 37x12.50s) Any hacks for getting the tail gate open far enough to lift the glass without a spare delete?

- Class II Mopar vs Class III Aftermarket Hitch Receiver: First off, I know that using a class III doesn't increase towing capacity and really isn't going to benefit anything other than the fact that they are rated for higher weights and will be more sturdy. Yes, the wrangler hitch receivers mount on a cross section so a class III isn't going to strengthen that section, but I feel that a class III is just a peace of mind sort of deal. I've read that the Curt Class III has a model for the JL, but the mopar 7/4pin connection bracket will not fit on it. Does anyone know if Curt has fixed this issue? Any other input on this section would be great, leaning towards the Class II Mopar, but just wanted to learn some more about Class III as well.

- Towing package install: I've seen very mixed feedback in other threads (any feedback is appreciated).
Is it really that difficult to install yourself? Any good links for install videos out there?
Are there any good, trusted wiring kits other than Mopar that you have used?
Do you need to have the auxiliary button for towing installed?
Have you found that it is cheaper to have installed at a dealer or through a local shop (I'm in Utah so we have tons of options for jeep specific shops).
I've seen some people say yes and no to needing the battery and alternator upgraded, input?

- Brake controller: open for all feedback haven't really looked into which model to go with yet. What's the price for install at a shop/dealer in comparison to the price/time it takes to do it yourself. Links to install videos that you like are definitely welcomed.

- Air Bags in Rear Springs: Totally don't mind throwing these bad boys onto the rig, used em on my RAM1500 they worked great.
Any issues with them when off-roading that you've ran into?
With the trailer specs I have listed in combination with the WDH do you think they'd really be necessary?

- Upgraded Gears (battle between 4.88 and 5.13 at the moment)
So I'm leaning towards the 5.13s, let me know if you think otherwise. I definitely will be going up from here (eventually 40's along with beefier axles AFTER retirement from a towing rig). What would you think would be the pros and cons of each with my setup while towing? I don't really care for gas mileage its a jeep lol. More worried about keeping engine, transmission temps down (which the JL does great I've never had an issue scaling mountains at highway speeds with 37s and 3.45s).

- Teraflex big brake kit: I think this is definitely a must trailer or not. Those 37s definitely put some strain on the brakes. I worked at Teraflex for a minute so their brake kit is one that I'm most familiar with. Any recommendations on other brake kits?? Will there be much more strain on the brakes currently if I'm using a brake controller? Would it be better to upgrade the trailer brakes instead?

- Steering Upgrades: The team that leads it all! I have a King SS and Rancho Adjustable Track Bar. I'm thinking it would be safe to go ahead and upgrade tie rod and drag link as well and considering upgrading ball joints, possibly ball joint deletes. I've definitely noticed some wear on the stock parts with the 37s. Recommendations for these? Yeti HD definitely has my attention, but so does the price tag lol.

I think that about sums everything up that I'm wanting more information on. Thank you to whoever decides to embark on the journey and read this lengthy post. If there are any other upgrades I'm missing and would like to bring my attention please do! Again thank you, and happy jeeping :)
Sell it. Buy a Rubicon with tow package and OffGridTrailer. You will be much happier.
 

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huey_atx

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Great info guys - have been looking for smaller tear-drop/overlanding style campers with dry weight around the 1500-2000# range. I don't have any towing hardware currently and am looking for some now - this definitely helped. Thx!!
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