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Adding proximity locks retroactively?

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Xpack109

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Only way to make it work after adding all these components to have FCA add the sales code for it and then dealer has to reconfigure the vehicle. I just got done doing one. Not worth the hassle or cost.
So I can add the sales code personally I presume I did on ram, but that’s why I think one of the posters didn’t work that had added the components is because he just added some handles and stuff the rf has to tell the vehicle that it has proximity
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dctech

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So I can add the sales code personally I presume I did on ram, but that’s why I think one of the posters didn’t work that had added the components is because he just added some handles and stuff the rf has to tell the vehicle that it has proximity

Have to make sure body wiring harness is wired for it or won't work either . Only Saharas and Rubicons are prewired on body side from what I have seen. Sales code GXD has to be added and vehicle reconfigured/reprogrammed to work
 

sdynak

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Have to make sure body wiring harness is wired for it or won't work either . Only Saharas and Rubicons are prewired on body side from what I have seen. Sales code GXD has to be added and vehicle reconfigured/reprogrammed to work
For a beginner like me to this process would it be possible to have a high outline on how to go about this to add to a Sahara or Rubicion? Very interested to know more about this option. One of those I regret but I purchased off the lot.

Thank you..
 

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So what I have put together from everything here is on my 2018 rubican jl if I was to purchase the 3 handles 3 caps 3 jumper wires the attenas should already be there and possibly would need a new rf module and dealer programming this should work??? Iam trying to get an answer from the district manager for the dealer I purchased the Jeep from on if this is possible as well. When you say I need new door harnesses not sure what is meant by that are we talking about the jumper wires at each location
 

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So what I have put together from everything here is on my 2018 rubican jl if I was to purchase the 3 handles 3 caps 3 jumper wires the attenas should already be there and possibly would need a new rf module and dealer programming this should work??? Iam trying to get an answer from the district manager for the dealer I purchased the Jeep from on if this is possible as well. When you say I need new door harnesses not sure what is meant by that are we talking about the jumper wires at each location
For rear door: handle, cap, jumper About $130-$150 total.
For FRONT doors: - handle, cap DOOR HARNESS. You need to replace the WHOLE door harness. The jumper is NOT separate. There is no part number for a front door jumper. L/R handles are identical. about $100-$120 with cap. Harnesses - $50-$60 each. So another $3-$360
RF Hub - I don't recall, not super expensive. Under $100 I believe.
You'll need to verify that the correct wire, carrying the door handle signal is present at the BODY side of the door harnesses, and tailgate harness. Nothing should be assumed.

Oh, and replacing those door harnesses.... PIA. Better be able to do it yourself, I can see dealer charging several hundred per door. You have to remove door card, obviously, and then inner molded plastic liner - at least enough to contort your hand behind it and thread the proximity plug over to the new handle. Be prepared for skinned knuckles. And lots of swearing. And lots of swearing. Did I say that twice? I do not recommend removing the plastic liner entirely, as the window motor is directly attached to the regulator. You may create more problems in aligning this all when putting back together. Take pictures of the way the harness is routed, pay attention to where the clips go.

Antennas: You need to pull off radio trim and HVAC panel - verify antenna there. Should be, because this one is used for push-button start
Need to pull off B-Pillar trim and verify an antenna on each side. In theory if you have one side, you should have the other... But again, never assume. Need to pull of rear quarter trim left and right, same thing - make sure antennas are there.
You should confirm antenna wires actually go to RF hub - at least to the degree you can. Without untaping wire harness, you'll have to check for a wire pair leaving each antenna, and going into the RF hub. Ideally you would unplug wires at each end, and use a multimeter to check for continuity.

I strongly recommend getting an FCA TechAuthority susbscription - even 3 days - $25. And downloading and reading as much information as to how this works, and the components involved. There will be detailed steps for removing components, wiring diagrams, operational descriptions.

I would not assume all Saharas and all Rubicons have the main harness wiring or the antennas. Different build dates, could mean different parts availability. I'd just make sure.

If someone has done this soup-to-nuts, they should post here. Particularly what they did with FCA, what magic words they used to make dealer take them seriously, and of course "did you succeed?" Pictures and videos are worth thousands of words. That being said, I'm telling you the Tazer JL folks have researched this, as a few others have on this forum. Not saying that is the be all, end all... But there seemed to be strong evidence that the RFhub needed to be REPLACED (mentioned a few times in responses above). It could not be modified. More importantly, a new RFH would only be programmed to original VIN options. BUT - if in fact FCA agreed to add the sales code for this option to your VIN, that might be the magic bullet. But all that still assumes a dealer would even venture down this path. I'm sure there are a few that will. Most will not. Or have no clue what they are doing or tell you will need $10000 worth of body-harness upgrades. I tried this once. I knew more than they did, but of course they would not admit that. Nor was I trying to push that. But they were telling me BS. Telling me all kinds of stupid crap. Basically anything to make me go away...

I'd like this option (and wish I had purchased it) as much as the next person. Adding it for $4-500, sure. But once I got to the FCA issues, and re-programming the hub - major hassle. Not worth it for me.
 
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dctech

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For rear door: handle, cap, jumper About $130-$150 total.
For FRONT doors: - handle, cap DOOR HARNESS. You need to replace the WHOLE door harness. The jumper is NOT separate. There is no part number for a front door jumper. L/R handles are identical. about $100-$120 with cap. Harnesses - $50-$60 each. So another $3-$360
RF Hub - I don't recall, not super expensive. Under $100 I believe.
You'll need to verify that the correct wire, carrying the door handle signal is present at the BODY side of the door harnesses, and tailgate harness. Nothing should be assumed.

Oh, and replacing those door harnesses.... PIA. Better be able to do it yourself, I can see dealer charging several hundred per door. You have to remove door card, obviously, and then inner molded plastic liner - at least enough to contort your hand behind it and thread the proximity plug over to the new handle. Be prepared for skinned knuckles. And lots of swearing. And lots of swearing. Did I say that twice? I do not recommend removing the plastic liner entirely, as the window motor is directly attached to the regulator. You may create more problems in aligning this all when putting back together. Take pictures of the way the harness is routed, pay attention to where the clips go.

Antennas: You need to pull off radio trim and HVAC panel - verify antenna there. Should be, because this one is used for push-button start
Need to pull off B-Pillar trim and verify an antenna on each side. In theory if you have one side, you should have the other... But again, never assume. Need to pull of rear quarter trim left and right, same thing - make sure antennas are there.
You should confirm antenna wires actually go to RF hub - at least to the degree you can. Without untaping wire harness, you'll have to check for a wire pair leaving each antenna, and going into the RF hub. Ideally you would unplug wires at each end, and use a multimeter to check for continuity.

I strongly recommend getting an FCA TechAuthority susbscription - even 3 days - $25. And downloading and reading as much information as to how this works, and the components involved. There will be detailed steps for removing components, wiring diagrams, operational descriptions.

I would not assume all Saharas and all Rubicons have the main harness wiring or the antennas. Different build dates, could mean different parts availability. I'd just make sure.

If someone has done this soup-to-nuts, they should post here. Particularly what they did with FCA, what magic words they used to make dealer take them seriously, and of course "did you succeed?" Pictures and videos are worth thousands of words. That being said, I'm telling you the Tazer JL folks have researched this, as a few others have on this forum. Not saying that is the be all, end all... But there seemed to be strong evidence that the RFhub needed to be REPLACED (mentioned a few times in responses above). It could not be modified. More importantly, a new RFH would only be programmed to original VIN options. BUT - if in fact FCA agreed to add the sales code for this option to your VIN, that might be the magic bullet. But all that still assumes a dealer would even venture down this path. I'm sure there are a few that will. Most will not. Or have no clue what they are doing or tell you will need $10000 worth of body-harness upgrades. I tried this once. I knew more than they did, but of course they would not admit that. Nor was I trying to push that. But they were telling me BS. Telling me all kinds of stupid crap. Basically anything to make me go away...

I'd like this option (and wish I had purchased it) as much as the next person. Adding it for $4-500, sure. But once I got to the FCA issues, and re-programming the hub - major hassle. Not worth it for me.
 

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So if I get this correct the moral of the story is to make sure you have a dealer willing to work with you.. otherwise your screwed and don't even attempt it.
 

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So if I get this correct the moral of the story is to make sure you have a dealer willing to work with you.. otherwise your screwed and don't even attempt it.
Yeah, think that’s your best bet. If you find a willing dealer, and then if you are technically capable, do all the install yourself, AND they charge a reasonable fee to add sales code and program keys... it might be worth it.

Here’s how long it took me:

Replace tail gate handle, cap, and jumper. 30-45 minutes. Contorting your hand to plug in jumper will be most time consuming.

Each door harness - 2 hours, total 4 hours
Door handles about 15-20 minutes each. Again, contorting your hand to plug in - that could add some time.

AND if you are smart, several hours researching on Tech Authority. If you don’t do the research to see how to diassrmble/reassemble, you may be setting yourself up to break something.
 

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sdynak

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Thanks for the input guys.. Really would be nice to see others take a stab at it and see if we can get momentum on this. Seems like it is actually possible after all.
 

LLANERO

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Yeah, think that’s your best bet. If you find a willing dealer, and then if you are technically capable, do all the install yourself, AND they charge a reasonable fee to add sales code and program keys... it might be worth it.

Here’s how long it took me:

Replace tail gate handle, cap, and jumper. 30-45 minutes. Contorting your hand to plug in jumper will be most time consuming.

Each door harness - 2 hours, total 4 hours
Door handles about 15-20 minutes each. Again, contorting your hand to plug in - that could add some time.

AND if you are smart, several hours researching on Tech Authority. If you don’t do the research to see how to diassrmble/reassemble, you may be setting yourself up to break something.
Could this be done to the driver's door only? That's the door I use 99% of the time. This would reduce the cost big time.
 

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Can some one upload pictures or videos step by step how to install the proximity door handles? That would be really really nice. I bought the jeep from my friend who is a dealer so I think I moght be able to ask him to add sales code for me but I am not super confident about the install
 

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Ok, I strongly suggest anyone interested in performing an upgrade like this (or similar technically involved changes) spend the $30 and get a 3 day FCA Tech Authority subscription. Everything you need is there - removal/installation processes for everything. Diagrams. Operational descriptions. Locations of systems. Includes PDFs, SVG diagrarms. Can be filtered by VIN. Has more comprehensive list of parts numbers than can be found on any dealer parts web site.

If you are going to spend hundred of dollars on parts, what is $30 more? There is just so much information there. If you are going to be doing a lot, or think you may go back more than the 3 days, buy the DVD. I think it is $120. Armed with the information at this site you will be on par with most dealer techs.

site: TechAuthority.com

That being said:

Handles:

Rear and tail gate door handles are similar. The rear has a grommet covering an access hole. The fronts have a round black sticker. Remove the grommet or sticker. Inside that hole is a torx screw/bolt. T20 I think. You need a thin screwdriver with a torx driver head to insert in that hole. You gradually loosen while at the SAME TIME gently pulling on the end cap of handle (separate piece). DO NOT remove the screw entirely, or you are, well, screwed. I suggest turning just a very small amount then pulling on the cap. Until it comes out. It will easily come out once the screw is backed out enough. Once the cap is out you can remove the handle.

Front door harnesses:

You will need to remove the door card to install new harnesses. There are screws behind the handle (need to pry open a small access panel), under the armrest and at bottom of door. All torx. Then there are a bunch of clips around perimeter. Gently pry these out with a nylon panel removal tool. Be gentle but firm, you don't want to break any. Unplug harness for power door locks/mirror. Remove cables for door handle pull. Set card aside where it won't get damaged. Inner "insulation panel" is where door harness is mounted and door window regulator mounts to. This is glued to door, and held in place with hex-head bolts. In my experience removing this entirely is a bad idea. Best to loosen as many hex head bolts that will allow you to contort your hand behind it. The window regulator is mounted to this panel. You don't want to deal with that. Look at how the cable is mounted, and where the clips are. Look at your new harness, hold it up to the old one. The new harness will have all needed clips. The only difference will be the pigtail connection for the proximity handle. You will need to snake your hand behind panel and unplug the power lock connector. You need to unplug the mirror jumper and the power window connection. And, of course, the main door harness needs to be unplugged at the body. Carefully remove the harness by prying clips loose. Do the opposite to install the new harness. To connect the proximity connector you may be able to fish the connector through the handle opening (after removing the handle), else you will need to contort your hand behind the panel to reconnect the power lock and proximity connector. It won't be easy, but it can be done.

Tail gate jumper:

Remove rear trim panel on tail gate - the whole panel. Use nylon panel remover. You will now be able to contort your hand to the power lock mechanism and unplug the power lock jumper at the lock. Unplug the power lock jumper at the tailgate harness. Replace with new jumper which has power lock and proximity connections. Proximity connector connects to the bottom of door handle.

Put everything back together.

After this you will need to complete three more actions. Right now, only a willing dealer can perform these.

1) Sales code for Proximity Locks (GXD, I believe) needs to be added to your VIN in the magical FCA database.
2) The RF Hub (located in left rear quarter, behind trim), needs to re-programmed to allow the proximity features to work. There is a very nice description of how the system works - called "Passive Entry" on the FCA site.
3) Uconnect "feature" needs to be "flashed/enabled" in your vehicle's uconnect system.

In a perfect world, it would be nice if all you needed the dealer to do was have FCA add the sales code. Steps 2 and 3 could be done by an aftermarket programmer. Step 3 DEFINITELY can be done, Step 2 seems to be a problem. I don't know if that's because of the sales code issue.

Note adding the sales code is done when you have the dealer install the AUX wiring or tow kit. So it can be done, just getting a dealer to do it for a "non-standard" install...that seems to be the problem.

I would get a firm price and clear indication of what the dealer will do and how far they will go to help you. Having them do everything above is probably cost-prohibitive. Doing steps 1,2,3 should be what, $100 or $200? Maybe even free? At any rate, if you did the install yourself, I doubt any dealer will be willing to troubleshoot beyond 1,2,3. In other words you may be on your own at that point...

By far the most difficult part is removal and install of door harnesses. This could be 2-3 hours EACH door, depending on how good of a contortionist you are!
 

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Now that a month or so has gone by since the last post on this. Has anyone else attempted to complete this set up?
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