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Adding electronic sway bar disconnect

Bulldog4xFour

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Any update this thread I just bought a Rubicon sway bar for my Mojave, and would love to use the Rubicon sway bar disconnect button to actuate team techs pneumatic sway bar disconnect.
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cosmokenney

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I made this piece to manually actuate the sway bar disconnect... similar to commercial versions... if you are handy and have some scrap metal then this is a cheap option... unfortunately with COVID it has been impossible to connect with somebody with a Rubicon who is willing to allow me to connect to the CANBus and steal the codes.. LOL

1611690646005.png
Can you share some details on this? I'd love to know what the diameter of the spring is and what size eye bolt you used, in terms of diameter.

Also how strong the spring needs to be.
 

CaJLMetalHead

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Can you share some details on this? I'd love to know what the diameter of the spring is and what size eye bolt you used, in terms of diameter.

Also how strong the spring needs to be.
Hey!... I would have to measure the bolt.... although it doesn't need to be all that strong.. I think a 3/8 inch eye bolt should be more than strong enough as the mechanism does not need to exert tons of pressure on the plunger, when I actuate it manually you can feel when the spring starts engaging the plunger, but you barely feel any pressure from the plunger...

I chose a rather stiff spring in order to avoid the spring from wandering inside the assembly..

The trickiest part was to weld the nuts on either side of the wall without them twisting and causing binding of the bolt, of course you could always buy weldable threaded long nuts and weld them through the wall... but once you start buying fancy pieces to build this device it starts defeating the purpose of cheap DIY fabrication... you always have the option of buying the one made by EVO:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/evo-...uWbpywm6pAq0KITTclhoCZscQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

cosmokenney

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Hey!... I would have to measure the bolt.... although it doesn't need to be all that strong.. I think a 3/8 inch eye bolt should be more than strong enough as the mechanism does not need to exert tons of pressure on the plunger, when I actuate it manually you can feel when the spring starts engaging the plunger, but you barely feel any pressure from the plunger...

I chose a rather stiff spring in order to avoid the spring from wandering inside the assembly..

The trickiest part was to weld the nuts on either side of the wall without them twisting and causing binding of the bolt, of course you could always buy weldable threaded long nuts and weld them through the wall... but once you start buying fancy pieces to build this device it starts defeating the purpose of cheap DIY fabrication... you always have the option of buying the one made by EVO:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/evo-manufacturing-jeep-wrangler-nolimits-manual-swaybar-disconnect-evo-1087.html?utm_content=XTHandling-SwaybarsandDisconnects|EVOManufacturing&T5_Var4=J176737&intl=0&utm_campaign=XTW+Wrangler+Vehicle+Medium+LTVMiddle&dialogtech=ppc&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAmZGrBhAnEiwAo9qHiXL7hZiAb7kMaFL-JeofjVroGuGw48kmtaBuWbpywm6pAq0KITTclhoCZscQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks man. I have a tig machine so I can control the heat input while binding the nuts on the inside. I should also have all the stuff needed. Might even have a bolt with a knob head to make it look "official" LOL.
Is there oil inside the mechanism?
 

CaJLMetalHead

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Thanks man. I have a tig machine so I can control the heat input while binding the nuts on the inside. I should also have all the stuff needed. Might even have a bolt with a knob head to make it look "official" LOL.
Is there oil inside the mechanism?
Hey!.... there is only grease inside the mechanism.. not much of it... just enough to coat the gears...

Post pics when you are done!.. LOL
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