Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[rts4714]

Seems it’s doing the same

The radio is probably telling the Can-Bus to remember the last setting of the ESS switch. The light comes on to remind you that the ESS system is disabled. I actually never reinstalled the SGW when I installed the Quart system. It's sitting in the console. Figured I didn't need that anymore.....

Just wanted to throw this outnthere so you don't get etranded like I did. My ESS stopped working when my battery cell died. It tried to push all the load to the alternate battery and they both died. The biggest tell was that it wasn't starting properly but that was seemingly awhile after the fact. Somethig to look into if it wasn't a tazer setting

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[Sting_NC_USA]

My brain hurts and I've been working at upgrades since 10am....here's what I got:
Starting with the base system 7in screen
JL c1-650x (6.5) in the knee panels, tweeters to be mounted elsewhere on a separate channel
JL c1-690 (6x9) in the roll bar. They fit with the proper adapters. The tweeter will push on the grill a little bit. Going to adress this later on
PAC - LocPRO advanced t harness
JBL DSP4068AM Amp - built in dsp and LOC
8in sub that I'll upgrade later.
After lots of troubleshooting we first identified that the remote wire wasn't working, figured out a temporary work around for that just to test the system.
And no sound to any of the speakers. What I'm struggling with is if the Amp has a built in LOC why would I not be getting sound. We've tested power to the Amp as well.
Speakers work if I plug the head unit in as factory, but trying to go through the Amp is where the issue is.
Wondering if there's something I'm overlooking or if I need to go the resistor route (350 for an Amp module seems excessive to me). Also considering if the audio control ac-lgd 20 will work

The amp's LOC isn't likely going to work because the resistance at that check point isn't what uConnect wants to see. You'll need resistors and a quality DSP as described in post #1, or the PAC device mentioned. Until you past the load sensing test, you won't get anything in the way of a useable signal.

 

[rts4714]

The amp's LOC isn't likely going to work because the resistance at that check point isn't what uConnect wants to see. You'll need resistors and a quality DSP as described in post #1, or the PAC device mentioned. Until you past the load sensing test, you won't get anything in the way of a useable signal.

Are you aware of any way to disable the load sensing with jscan or tazer? Seems like that would've come up by now. I also noticed you mentioned the audio control device in the 1st post so I guess I'll scratch that idea. Kind of annoyed Crutchfield didn't mention any of this

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Are you aware of any way to disable the load sensing with jscan or tazer? Seems like that would've come up by now. I also noticed you mentioned the audio control device in the 1st post so I guess I'll scratch that idea. Kind of annoyed Crutchfield didn't mention any of this

No known updates, sorry.

 

[Terpsmandan]

My brain hurts and I've been working at upgrades since 10am....here's what I got:
Starting with the base system 7in screen
JL c1-650x (6.5) in the knee panels, tweeters to be mounted elsewhere on a separate channel
JL c1-690 (6x9) in the roll bar. They fit with the proper adapters. The tweeter will push on the grill a little bit. Going to adress this later on
PAC - LocPRO advanced t harness
JBL DSP4068AM Amp - built in dsp and LOC
8in sub that I'll upgrade later.
After lots of troubleshooting we first identified that the remote wire wasn't working, figured out a temporary work around for that just to test the system.
And no sound to any of the speakers. What I'm struggling with is if the Amp has a built in LOC why would I not be getting sound. We've tested power to the Amp as well.
Speakers work if I plug the head unit in as factory, but trying to go through the Amp is where the issue is.
Wondering if there's something I'm overlooking or if I need to go the resistor route (350 for an Amp module seems excessive to me). Also considering if the audio control ac-lgd 20 will work

Why not use a PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41?

 

[rts4714]

Why not use a PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41?

Same reason OP didn't go with it initially...the sheer cost of it is excessive IMHO.

 

[rts4714]

Wanted to give you guys an update since I found a cheaper alternative that doesn't involve splicing in resistors. You can see my set up above. I also picked up Metra 82-3016 for the tweeters (dash) which did not fit properly despite crutchfield saying they would. I just dremeled out some plastic on the adapter plates to make it work. The main thing is the Kicker 46kisload4. It works very similar to the PAC module without a DSP though. I have a DSP built into my amp so this worked out well. It was $40 on amazon.
Final set up is a 6.1 system
You send 4 channels through the kicker module as the OEM system is 4 channels. those 4 channels run into the amp. I also wired in the tweeters as separate channels rather than crossed over like OEM had it.
Now to tuning!

Dash - Tweeters (JL C1-250 Component, not using the included crossover)
Knee Panels - Mid range woofers (JL C1-250 Component)
Roll bar - full range (JL C1-690x)
8in sub in the back

 

[TorturedMargot]

Is anyone with the PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41 having issues with the subwoofer not playing at full volume until the volume is turned up high? My woof is quiet but then I turn the volume up to 28-30 then all of the sudden it wakes up and plays loudly steadily. Very strange.

 

[yodog]

K

Is anyone with the PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41 having issues with the subwoofer not playing at full volume until the volume is turned up high? My woof is quiet but then I turn the volume up to 28-30 then all of the sudden it wakes up and plays loudly steadily. Very strange.

Has it always done this? Or has it just developed into a new problem?

 

[TorturedMargot]

K


Has it always done this? Or has it just developed into a new problem?

It hasn't always done this, no. I'm wondering if my signal or connection is weak and the voltage is only high enough with the volume cranked.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

That sounds like an RCA cable, or any wire between the PAC and your amp, may be loose or going bad. Just a guess, but a weak connection often yields very similar results.

 

[SubmarinesOnce]

I don’t think saying I hate you all is what I mean. But I just went through all 84 pages. I don’t have any issues, but am about to drop in some upgrades to my 22 4xe alpine. Pretty much changing everything except the sub, for now.

looking at the VX-1000/5i, some focal components in front, torn on the 2 way or 3 way(PS 165 FE), and PAC amp pro. Already put a fosgate component in the sound bar, just fill so not worried about the quality difference.

As everyone says, buy once, cry once. And the wife is pretty much on board. The amp keeps us from wanting a DSP down the road, so it isn’t a huge jump for something we may want later.

And if a sub is needed later, it is a simple 4-500 dollar drop into the alpine enclosure with the JL everyone talks about.

As much as I would like the 8 channel active approach, I just don’t think the extra jump in cost will truly be something I will be able to hear. And that amp is more expensive plus would still need a mono sub amp.

so thanks for the information here and the bug. Not sure when the order and install will happen, but it is on the horizon.

 

[Eddiechi]

I don’t think saying I hate you all is what I mean. But I just went through all 84 pages. I don’t have any issues, but am about to drop in some upgrades to my 22 4xe alpine. Pretty much changing everything except the sub, for now.

looking at the VX-1000/5i, some focal components in front, torn on the 2 way or 3 way(PS 165 FE), and PAC amp pro. Already put a fosgate component in the sound bar, just fill so not worried about the quality difference.

As everyone says, buy once, cry once. And the wife is pretty much on board. The amp keeps us from wanting a DSP down the road, so it isn’t a huge jump for something we may want later.

And if a sub is needed later, it is a simple 4-500 dollar drop into the alpine enclosure with the JL everyone talks about.

As much as I would like the 8 channel active approach, I just don’t think the extra jump in cost will truly be something I will be able to hear. And that amp is more expensive plus would still need a mono sub amp.

so thanks for the information here and the bug. Not sure when the order and install will happen, but it is on the horizon.

I just finished pulling out my system in my 2Dr similar to your build VX-1000/5i and 2 pairs of Focal ES 165KX2 seperates for the dash and soundbar. Really sounded good and the VX-1000 made for a real easy and clean install but never found a permanent solution for the subwoofer because of space restrictions in the 2Dr but the JL Audio's tuning software "Tun" really came in handy when running RTA and setting system up for different environments... top down, doors off etc...

 

[SubmarinesOnce]

I just finished pulling out my system in my 2Dr similar to your build VX-1000/5i and 2 pairs of Focal ES 165KX2 seperates for the dash and soundbar. Really sounded good and the VX-1000 made for a real easy and clean install but never found a permanent solution for the subwoofer because of space restrictions in the 2Dr but the JL Audio's tuning software "Tun" really came in handy when running RTA and setting system up for different environments... top down, doors off etc...

Got the install done. Ended up going with the vx 1000/5i with 2 sets of focal ps 165 FE. I have the same flax cone in the home theater bookshelf speakers.

The sound is so much better. Got the bass/tune knob also under the dash so a push of the button swaps to a top down preset. Raises the gain on the soundbar speakers and flattens everything a bit so everything is louder with the wind noise.

As I said, very pleased with the outcome. The stock alpine sub is even less boomy with the crossover lower from the amp. Very happy with the sound look forward to many miles of listening.

 

[zsg1313]

I didnt want to start a new thread so I hope you dont mind me asking here. I wired up my old JL 500/1 and 10W7 using the Lc2i tapped into the rear speakers. I have the Lc2i set to "always on" with the threshold at max and the three dials about 3/4 up.

The setup sounds great but I ran through the JL Audio setup for the input sensitivity here using their 50Hz sine wave: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374120-Amplifier-Level-Setting-Guide

I should max out about 44.7v but even with the system almost at full volume I barely hit 20v with the sensitivity at maximum.
Do you think I may be doing something wrong? As for the photos below I have since routed the power away from the RCAs.

This is my first system I havent replaced the head unit on so I never had to do the splice into rears and Lc2i before, Im guessing it may be a limitation on the LOC?

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