Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[oceanblue2019]

You can also hook your meter at the amp power feed, get someone to watch it, and go gently shake all the connections between the amp to the battery to see if anything shows an intermittent.

Be cautious as if something is loose you don't want to completely unseat it and have a live 4G wire floating around.

It really does sound like a power issue under load, and that could be a loose connector.

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[oceanblue2019]

Question - with the PAC I've read the thread here and see some references to the TOSLINK.

But has anyone actually used that to a DSP or amp that supports digital in?

I realize that you will loose your head units fader but does volume still work properly?

Any other gotchas?

 

[toneloc2]

Question - with the PAC I've read the thread here and see some references to the TOSLINK.

But has anyone actually used that to a DSP or amp that supports digital in?

I realize that you will loose your head units fader but does volume still work properly?

Any other gotchas?

yup i use the toslink from pac to my helix ultra. as well digital coax for my fiio m11

 

[sandygar4]

I use the toslink from my Stinger heigh10 to JL Audio amps. The soundbar speakers are still powered by the factory amp, while the front stage is powered by the VXI amps. The fader control still controls the sound bar spearers. It was the same when I was using the factory head unit with the ap4-ch41 linked to my amp by toslink

 

[oceanblue2019]

I use the toslink from my Stinger heigh10 to JL Audio amps. The soundbar speakers are still powered by the factory amp, while the front stage is powered by the VXI amps. The fader control still controls the sound bar spearers. It was the same when I was using the factory head unit with the ap4-ch41 linked to my amp by toslink

Cool, and chances for a write up how to preserve factory amp for sound bar?

It could save my buddy some money, and me some time to just leave those alone and replace fronts and sub.

 

[sandygar4]

On the ap4-ch41 there is a little jumper that has to be connected that allows the factory connection to the factory amps to act as normal. The ap4-ch41 just taps in to the signal from the factory head unit without having to cut any wires-plug and play.

 

[gs4jd]

I have read almost all of the 59 pages of post.
A few questions, I have the 8.4 uconnect with the alpine system.
my plan is to pull the alpine sub, add to jl stealth boxes, one on each side. 2 4 ohm models.
i have the jl 400/4 and 500/1 with under-seat mounting racks. i have the jl fix 86 , with the lsa-4 ,can i catch the speaker out before the factory amp or after? also because i will be removing the factory alpine sub , does anyone know the part number to the factory trim , to seamlessly accommodate the passenger jl stealth , after removing the alpine sub?

 

[Nate3531]

What's your power source, and what size power wire and ground wire are you using?

You should be running a minimum of 8ga fused wire directly to your battery, and a minimum of 8ga wire to a non-painted, dedicated ground post/location. The remote wire guage is insignificant.

Sounds like your amp may be choking from a limited power source. With more detail, we'll dig in further.

Ran a new ground, used a hole in the frame I was able to get a bolt into and grounded to the dedicated bolt. Verified I have constant 13.79v on music with the amp cutting out. Amp also cuts out with my cell phone connected to the RCA so the Jeeps speakers and LOC are bypassed. I believe I have a bad amp. Going to order a cheap Skar mono for now to get some sound. Might upgrade later. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I have read almost all of the 59 pages of post.
A few questions, I have the 8.4 uconnect with the alpine system.
my plan is to pull the alpine sub, add to jl stealth boxes, one on each side. 2 4 ohm models.
i have the jl 400/4 and 500/1 with under-seat mounting racks. i have the jl fix 86 , with the lsa-4 ,can i catch the speaker out before the factory amp or after? also because i will be removing the factory alpine sub , does anyone know the part number to the factory trim , to seamlessly accommodate the passenger jl stealth , after removing the alpine sub?

You'd need to pull the signal after the amp. The thing is, unless JL Audio has updated it, the lsa-4 won't work with the load-sensing test of our JL's. It's been a couple of years since I tried it, and that's actually what started this crazy thread.

Personally, I'd recommend using the resistor approach. If you don't want to cut wires, you'd then need to go the PAC route.

As for the part numbers for the factory trim, reach out to Benny at @AllMoparParts.com. He'll give the part numbers and a great price on the parts. They are a sponsor here, and I buy everything Mopar related from him.

Good luck with everything and keep us posted!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Ran a new ground, used a hole in the frame I was able to get a bolt into and grounded to the dedicated bolt. Verified I have constant 13.79v on music with the amp cutting out. Amp also cuts out with my cell phone connected to the RCA so the Jeeps speakers and LOC are bypassed. I believe I have a bad amp. Going to order a cheap Skar mono for now to get some sound. Might upgrade later. Thanks for the suggestions.

Just a thought, have you tried turning the gains on the amp almost all the way down? I know that having the gains turned too high can cause unnecessary clipping.

 

[OlderSpice]

I have read almost all of the 59 pages of post.
A few questions, I have the 8.4 uconnect with the alpine system.
my plan is to pull the alpine sub, add to jl stealth boxes, one on each side. 2 4 ohm models.
i have the jl 400/4 and 500/1 with under-seat mounting racks. i have the jl fix 86 , with the lsa-4 ,can i catch the speaker out before the factory amp or after? also because i will be removing the factory alpine sub , does anyone know the part number to the factory trim , to seamlessly accommodate the passenger jl stealth , after removing the alpine sub?

I actually just placed an order for this exact situation, this what I ordered:

Quarter Inner Lower Panel, Right - MOPAR (6LU84TX7AF)

Cargo Trim Bezel, Right - Mopar (6BM34TX7AB)

Wheelhouse Carpet, Right - Mopar (6SQ60TX7AA)

 

[gs4jd]

Just a thought, have you tried turning the gains on the amp almost all the way down? I know that having the gains turned too high can cause unnecessary clipping.

I actually just placed an order for this exact situation, this what I ordered:

Quarter Inner Lower Panel, Right - MOPAR (6LU84TX7AF)

Cargo Trim Bezel, Right - Mopar (6BM34TX7AB)

Wheelhouse Carpet, Right - Mopar (6SQ60TX7AA)

thanks .. really appreciate ya.

 

[gs4jd]

You'd need to pull the signal after the amp. The thing is, unless JL Audio has updated it, the lsa-4 won't work with the load-sensing test of our JL's. It's been a couple of years since I tried it, and that's actually what started this crazy thread.

Personally, I'd recommend using the resistor approach. If you don't want to cut wires, you'd then need to go the PAC route.

As for the part numbers for the factory trim, reach out to Benny at @AllMoparParts.com. He'll give the part numbers and a great price on the parts. They are a sponsor here, and I buy everything Mopar related from him.

Good luck with everything and keep us posted!

Thanks I really appreciate the info.. I was planning to use the crux avich-03 for a video input. the pac harness and the avich-03 harness looks very similar , and I dont have enough info to figure out what pins are used. I was tempted to pull the unconnect and go with the alpine, but I want to use the hotspot on the Uconnect for the nvidia shield tv. If im understanding correctly , use the resistor approach , and then feed the JL Fix?

 

[Nate3531]

You'd need to pull the signal after the amp. The thing is, unless JL Audio has updated it, the lsa-4 won't work with the load-sensing test of our JL's. It's been a couple of years since I tried it, and that's actually what started this crazy thread.

Personally, I'd recommend using the resistor approach. If you don't want to cut wires, you'd then need to go the PAC route.

As for the part numbers for the factory trim, reach out to Benny at @AllMoparParts.com. He'll give the part numbers and a great price on the parts. They are a sponsor here, and I buy everything Mopar related from him.

Good luck with everything and keep us posted!

Gains are all set below half across the board. Issue persists. I'm not sure it is clipping but it does behave that way.

 

[gs4jd]

Gains are all set below half across the board. Issue persists. I'm not sure it is clipping but it does behave that way.

I reached out to JL and yes , problem still persist.. this was the response.

Lee DobsonToday at 10:32
Hello,

The FiX-86 will work with your Jeep, however, the FiX-86 and FiX-LSA-4 will not offer a low enough impedance by themselves to correct the output muting on your Wrangler JL OEM system. You will need to use some 40 ohm (5 watt or greater) resistors in conjunction with the FiX-LSA-4 to accomplish low enough of a load.

Simply wire one 40 ohm (5 watt or greater) resistor in parallel on each speaker lead before input into the FiX-LSA-4. Next, connect the output harnesses of the FiX-LSA-4 to the inputs of the FiX-86 and calibrate the FiX with the supplied FiX calibration track.
Resistor wired in parallel over single speaker wire (one end of the resistor connects to OEM speaker lead "+", the other end connects to OEM speaker lead "-"):

Once completed, the OEM output muting will be defeated, and the OEM signal will be corrected.
Sincerely,
Lee Dobson
Technical Support Specialist

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