Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[tthoms]

Update on my installation:

I am still waiting for my metra pods and roll bar 6.5" speaker adapters to come in Friday, but I decided to jump in yesterday and run all the wire, and get the amp ready to "plug and play". Everything went fairly smooth. I had a couple questions after that:

1) At what point do you calibrate the PAC module? When everything is done and you're ready to go, or can you calibrate it at any point as long as its hooked up to the factory radio? Finding a place to run the RCAs from within the dash back to the amp under the drivers seat is going to be "fun" lol. Any recommendations on that would be great.

2) I got the roll bar speaker adapters from Crutchfield. Has anyone used these? Will it still require some cutting/modifying of the roll bar? I see that the roll bar is really used for fill. Is it even worth upgrading/amping these? Do you guys still have these speakers amped or do you amp the dash speakers and the knee panels since they provide most of the sound stage? Just curious.

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[sandor.g]

Update on my installation:

I am still waiting for my metra pods and roll bar 6.5" speaker adapters to come in Friday, but I decided to jump in yesterday and run all the wire, and get the amp ready to "plug and play". Everything went fairly smooth. I had a couple questions after that:

1) At what point do you calibrate the PAC module? When everything is done and you're ready to go, or can you calibrate it at any point as long as its hooked up to the factory radio? Finding a place to run the RCAs from within the dash back to the amp under the drivers seat is going to be "fun" lol. Any recommendations on that would be great.

2) I got the roll bar speaker adapters from Crutchfield. Has anyone used these? Will it still require some cutting/modifying of the roll bar? I see that the roll bar is really used for fill. Is it even worth upgrading/amping these? Do you guys still have these speakers amped or do you amp the dash speakers and the knee panels since they provide most of the sound stage? Just curious.

1: I calibrated when everything was there.

2: Why did you choose the driver side?I can give you an idea on the passenger side: Pull up the carpet on the passenger side and remove the little snorkel shaped vent duct. If you are placing the PAC in the glove compartment area, you will be able to nicely pull the RCA cables under the center console plastic trim to right under the seat.
put back the duct piece and the carpet and voila!


3: yes, I have installed those. Yes, you will have to cut. Yes, you should upgrade, the sound stage will improve if you do it right.

 

[DakotaBoy]

Can I forego all of this by installing an Alpine X409? Hate the price, but I’d be upgrading from 7 to 8.4 anyway.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Can I forego all of this by installing an Alpine X409? Hate the price, but I’d be upgrading from 7 to 8.4 anyway.

Yup, though you'll want to have it professionally installed. It's a bear! The wiring has to be routed through various, existing modular plugs to maintain stock controls and functionality.

The gentleman referenced at the end of post #1 in thus thread can assist with detail and possibly pricing.

 

[ModMike]

I am struggling to understand something. First, this is my build list for my base 7" radio without Alpine:

Front:
1X Metra JP-1014 Speaker Pods
1X JL Audio C2-650 6.5-inch (165 mm) 2-Way Component Speaker System

Speaker Bar:
1X SSV Works JJT-SA065 6-1/2" soundbar speaker adapters
1X C2-650x 6.5-inch (150 mm) Coaxial Speaker System

Sub-Woofer:
1X Mopar sub-woofer for 2 door JL Part# 68283473AC

Amplifier:
1X JL Audio VX700/5i 5 Ch. Class D System Amplifier with Integrated DSP, 700 W

Does the JL Audio VX series have a built in line LOC? Pretty sure I need one but want to be sure.

 

[DakotaBoy]

Yup, though you'll want to have it professionally installed. It's a bear! The wiring has to be routed through various, existing modular plugs to maintain stock controls and functionality.

The gentleman referenced at the end of post #1 in thus thread can assist with detail and possibly pricing.

Perfect. Thanks!

 

[joshua.mcguoirk]

<snip>

1) At what point do you calibrate the PAC module? When everything is done and you're ready to go, or can you calibrate it at any point as long as its hooked up to the factory radio? Finding a place to run the RCAs from within the dash back to the amp under the drivers seat is going to be "fun" lol. Any recommendations on that would be great.

</snip>

I quickly researched your amp. The JL amp is digital. PAC modules can be upgraded for a nominal fee (~$50.00) to add toslink. Go this route... only 1 cable to run from the module to amp vs. 3 sets of RCA's. Cleaner install too.
Even if you already own the module the toslink adapter is plug-n-play and sold separately.

 

[ModMike]

I quickly researched your amp. The JL amp is digital. PAC modules can be upgraded for a nominal fee (~$50.00) to add toslink. Go this route... only 1 cable to run from the module to amp vs. 3 sets of RCA's. Cleaner install too.
Even if you already own the module the toslink adapter is plug-n-play and sold separately.

Awesome idea, thanks!

 

[ModMike]

I quickly researched your amp. The JL amp is digital. PAC modules can be upgraded for a nominal fee (~$50.00) to add toslink. Go this route... only 1 cable to run from the module to amp vs. 3 sets of RCA's. Cleaner install too.
Even if you already own the module the toslink adapter is plug-n-play and sold separately.

I just realized something. Do I need to bother with a PAC at all? Can I just use resistors or the JL audio fix? The amp has a full DSP so I don't need that capability in the PAC, which is also very expensive.

 

[tthoms]

1: I calibrated when everything was there.

2: Why did you choose the driver side?I can give you an idea on the passenger side: Pull up the carpet on the passenger side and remove the little snorkel shaped vent duct. If you are placing the PAC in the glove compartment area, you will be able to nicely pull the RCA cables under the center console plastic trim to right under the seat.
put back the duct piece and the carpet and voila!


3: yes, I have installed those. Yes, you will have to cut. Yes, you should upgrade, the sound stage will improve if you do it right.

Thanks for your input.

Exactly what areas of the roll bar need to be cut? I saw elsewhere that ill need a dremel or similar. Is it just cutting to make the speaker holes larger? Ill be getting the adapter today so Im sure it'll be in the instructions, but just thought id ask while I was here.

I chose the driver's side because I chose not to run my amp's power wire through the firewall on the passenger side. I found a video on youtube that gave me easy access from the outside of the jeep to the inside on the driver's side. So I ran the power wire through the driver's side (came into the cabin just to the left of the brake pedal) and decided to keep everything on that side of the vehicle so I didn't run out of wire.

Here is the video of the area I chose to run my power wire through...

 

[sandor.g]

I am struggling to understand something. First, this is my build list for my base 7" radio without Alpine:

Front:
1X Metra JP-1014 Speaker Pods
1X JL Audio C2-650 6.5-inch (165 mm) 2-Way Component Speaker System

Speaker Bar:
1X SSV Works JJT-SA065 6-1/2" soundbar speaker adapters
1X C2-650x 6.5-inch (150 mm) Coaxial Speaker System

Sub-Woofer:
1X Mopar sub-woofer for 2 door JL Part# 68283473AC

Amplifier:
1X JL Audio VX700/5i 5 Ch. Class D System Amplifier with Integrated DSP, 700 W

Does the JL Audio VX series have a built in line output converter or do I still need a PAC?

Looking at the manual it looks like your inputs are RCA

I just realized something. Do I need to bother with a PAC at all? Can I just use resistors or the JL audio fix? The amp has a full DSP so I don't need that capability in the PAC, which is also very expensive.

I don't see any high level (speaker level) inputs for that amp, only the RCAs (which I assume accept only low level/line signals) so somehow you will have to do the line conversion.
JL Audio Fix86 is more expensive than a PAC and it has built in DSP already, so you'd have two DSPs inline which is an overkill.

If you want to simplify your game here, you should maybe consider the AudioControl D-6.1200 amp. That has built in DSP, accepts high level signals directly, it is more powerful than the JL audio you have listed, can have bluetooth control for the DSP settings, it's a 6 channel versus the JL's 5 and sounds awesome, for the same price. I have the DSP-less version of that amp and I am so happy I decided to buy it.

 

[sandor.g]

Thanks for your input.

Exactly what areas of the roll bar need to be cut? I saw elsewhere that ill need a dremel or similar. Is it just cutting to make the speaker holes larger? Ill be getting the adapter today so Im sure it'll be in the instructions, but just thought id ask while I was here.

I chose the driver's side because I chose not to run my amp's power wire through the firewall on the passenger side. I found a video on youtube that gave me easy access from the outside of the jeep to the inside on the driver's side. So I ran the power wire through the driver's side (came into the cabin just to the left of the brake pedal) and decided to keep everything on that side of the vehicle so I didn't run out of wire.

Here is the video of the area I chose to run my power wire through...

When you get it and read the manual you'll see, it is as straightforward as it could be.
What to use? Well, what works best for you. I did use a jigsaw and a dremel but if I'd do ir again, I'd use a hot knife (hot knife attachments for soldering irons) to cut nicer and smoother.

I know that spot on the driver side, that's where my dashcam power wire is going through.

 

[ModMike]

Looking at the manual it looks like your inputs are RCA


I don't see any high level inputs for that amp, only the RCAs (which I assume accept only low level signals) so somehow you will have to do the line conversion.
JL Audio Fix86 is more expensive than a PAC and it has built in DSP already, so you'd have two DSPs inline which is an overkill.

If you want to simplify your game here, you should maybe consider the AudioControl D-6.1200 amp. That has built in DSP, is more powerful than the JL audio you have listed, can have bluetooth control for the DSP settings, it's a 6 channel versus the JL's 5 and sounds awesome, for the same price. I have the DSP-less version of that amp and I am so happy I decided to buy it.

I called JL-Audio to get the low down. It turns out that the VX700/5i can accept a signal up to 16 volts directly from the head unit. It also has a built in DSP. He did go on to say that if it were his install, he would put the radio signal into the PAC4 pro and then into the amp, the theory being that it's better to start with a flat output than "unpredictable" head unit responses.

Although I want good sound, I am not that crazy so I agree with you on the double DSP setup being overkill. Also, a jeep probably ranks in the top 10 worst audio environments possible. This was pretty much confirmed after seeing the JL Audio install on the Lite Brite Nation youtube channel. They tested the signal before bringing it in and felt it was "safe", JL Audio reps words, not mine, to use the signal.

I am happy with the speaker choice but will look at the amp you mentioned to see if I get bigger bank for the buck. I know I am paying more for brand with JL Audio.

 

[sandor.g]

I called JL-Audio to get the low down. It turns out that the VX700/5i can accept a signal up to 16 volts directly from the head unit. It also has a built in DSP. He did go on to say that if it were his install, he would put the radio signal into the PAC4 pro and then into the amp, the theory being that it's better to start with a flat output than "unpredictable" head unit responses.

Although I want good sound, I am not that crazy and we shouldn't forget it's probably one of the worst audio environments possible. Seems like over kill especially after seeing the JL Audio install on the Lite Brite Nation you tube channel. They tested the signal before bringing it in and felt it was "safe", JL Audio reps words, not mine, to use the signal.

I am happy with the speaker choice but will look at the amp you mentioned to see if I get bigger bank for the buck. I know I am paying more for brand with JL Audio.

don't get me wrong, JL Audio has great products, I almost went that way. And hey, as long as people are willing to pay top dollar for their gear, they should just charge that.

But, AudioControl is a very well known brand in the audio game, not only in car audio, but in home and pro audio as well.
I was a little hesitant first, but I cannot even tell you how happy I am with my purchase. I wish I did not have the Alpine pitstop first and gone with this amp from the get go.

 

[ModMike]

don't get me wrong, JL Audio has great products, I almost went that way. And hey, as long as people are willing to pay top dollar for their gear, they should just charge that.

But, AudioControl is a very well known brand in the audio game, not only in car audio, but in home and pro audio as well.
I was a little hesitant first, but I cannot even tell you how happy I am with my purchase. I wish I did not have the Alpine pitstop first and gone with this amp from the get go.

Thanks for your help. I decided to go with the JL stuff, seeing as I don't need the extra channel. The component JL's are relatively cheap so II'm also ok with that.

I will skip the PAC4 for now and see what it sounds like. If I can adjust the DSP then we are golden, if not, I will just buy a PAC4.

I don't want to mount the amp under the seat, I'd rather keep it high in case we cross water. Any secret hidden locations you can recommend for the amp?

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