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Sting_NC_USA

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PAC to the Amp remote in. But the lead is quite short so you could use the remote wire in your wiring kit to connect the lead to your amp.
That blue lead is the one I am talking about
1599860109125.png
Good advice here, just know that some amps require more "remote on" power than the PAC's remote on wire will supply. If that's the case, use the trusty 12V Outlet tap method. ;)





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Great thread, trying to read through is leaving me dizzy!

I saw some mention of a 2 door JL Stealthbox at the beginning and was wondering if anyone has any updates?
 

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Jeep JL Audio build list, please help me validate:

Radio
7" UConnect that will be upgraded to Connect 8.4 ver 5 when I can find one at scrapper

Main Components
JL Audio VX700/5i: Full-Range Amplifier with Integrated DSP
JL Audio Stealthbox® for 2018-Up Jeep Wrangler 2 door ????
JL Audio C2-650 compnent speakers (Front)
JL Audio C2-400x 4-inch (100 mm) Coaxial Speaker System (Sound bar)

Installation parts
Metra JP-1014 Speaker Pods
99838, SBA-J-JL-FHB: 2018-Up Jeep Wrangler (JL) Fuse Holder Bracket
91656, XB-MFBU-ANL: Master ANL Fuse Block
99837, SBA-J-JLU-UAR: 2018-Up Jeep Wrangler (JL) Unlimited Universal Amplifier Rack
90355, XD-PCS4-1B: Premium 4 AWG 12 V Power Connection Kit, Single Amplifier
47K Ohm 5 watt Resistors

Notes:
I don't mind spending money but not looking to chop up sound bar especially as it is mostly used for fill. That being said, I have no issue upgrading anything that can fit in stock sounder speaker holes.

I would like to "replicate" the Alpine system by having an amp in the box, off the floor and use factory wiring

Current Questions:

What is considered the premium radio? The 8.4 or 7"? Or does it mean Alpine?

Thanks!
 

tthoms

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PAC to the Amp remote in. But the lead is quite short so you could use the remote wire in your wiring kit to connect the lead to your amp.
That blue lead is the one I am talking about
1599860109125.png
Okay great. So you just have your remote signal for the amp coming from the PAC. I assume, once the radio/PAC is off, the amp will turn off too.
 

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Good advice here, just know that some amps require more "remote on" power than the PAC's remote on wire will supply. If that's the case, use the trusty 12V Outlet tap method. ;)
I assume that if the amp does not turn on, this would be the indicator that I need to use the 12v?
I don't know if it matters too much but I am using a fairly small amp. Compact 4 channel soundstream St4 1000D.
 

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I assume that if the amp does not turn on, this would be the indicator that I need to use the 12v?
I don't know if it matters too much but I am using a fairly small amp. Compact 4 channel soundstream St4 1000D.
Or, your wiring is wrong.
- Did you connect all three of the bottom pins (black wires in that 6 pin lead) to the chassis?
- did you connect both of the red wires to the battery?
1600140200442.png

- did you (you definitely should) put any inline fuse in the power wire? Is the fuse in and okay?
- did you connect the top right pin, the blue wire to the PAC remote wire?
- when disconnected from the amp, using a multimeter, can you measure 12Volts between the power (PW) pins and the ground (GND) pins or the Remote (RE) pins and the GND pin below it?
- did you check if the PAC is actually on, solid amber on LED1?

This made me chuckle :)
1600140606242.png


btw this is probably the worst quality manual I've ever seen.
 
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I assume that if the amp does not turn on, this would be the indicator that I need to use the 12v?
I don't know if it matters too much but I am using a fairly small amp. Compact 4 channel soundstream St4 1000D.
Most likely. I've not installed an amp that would accept the PAC's Remote out. It's just not strong enough. Hit the 12V Outlet and you should be fine.
 

tthoms

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Or, your wiring is wrong.
- Did you connect all three of the bottom pins (black wires in that 6 pin lead) to the chassis?
- did you connect both of the red wires to the battery?
1600140200442.png

- did you (you definitely should) put any inline fuse in the power wire? Is the fuse in and okay?
- did you connect the top right pin, the blue wire to the PAC remote wire?
- when disconnected from the amp, using a multimeter, can you measure 12Volts between the power (PW) pins and the ground (GND) pins or the Remote (RE) pins and the GND pin below it?
- did you check if the PAC is actually on, solid amber on LED1?

This made me chuckle :)
1600140606242.png


btw this is probably the worst quality manual I've ever seen.
Thanks! Yeah 900w per channel eh? xD
 

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Ok, so this weekend is install time for me (Base 7” radio). After exhaustive research & re-reading this thread & the thread @Varilux created, I've gone the Alpine KTP-445U and Pac AmpPro AP-CH41(R.2) route. I've got an inexpensive powered subwoofer (Rockville RWS10CA) arriving in a few days. Already replaced the 4 3.5" speakers with Kicker47KSC3504.

I intend to give the factory speaker wiring a go since things are still going to be relatively low powered. I plan on using the drivers side "clutch" grommet to run my sub power to the battery.

I do have a couple quick questions.

@Sting_NC_USA - many posts ago you mentioned something about knowing what voltage your amp is putting out in order to determine whether to set the AmpPro to 4v or 5v. I don't see any output voltage specified for mine, only input. I assume I'll just try leaving at 5v and switch to 4v if any hiss/static?

I think I only saw 1 mention of the "sleep cycle" thing for the AmpPro. Hope everyone with a non-amplified factory radio is doing that and setting Dip 4 to On, per the instructions. I plan on it - just don't think I saw many people mention that step and thinks its pretty important.

As an FYI - as of today 9/16/20 - the AP-CH41 R2 has only had 1 firmware and it is what comes from the factory. So no need to do any firmware updates on it. v 2.1.3.15 is all that is on the website and what the R2 units are shipped with.I verified this with PAC as well. (I had seen some mention doing firmware updates on their R2's, there shouldn't be any need to. The device can be reset in other less intrusive ways as well in case you need to "reset it").

Regarding remote wires...

1. I should not need to use the Pac "remote output" wire, correct?

2. The blue/white remote wire on the output side of my amp should go to the 12v DC, correct?

3. The blue/white remote wire on the input side of my amp "could" be used for other purposes (to trigger a sub?) but I don't "need" to connect that one to anything, correct?

4. My sub will be in the back cargo area. I will be running main power up to the battery, and, for its remote, I plan on running it to the rear 12v DC adapter (and ensuring I move the fuse position in the fuse box so it isn't always powered). No issues here, right?

Just want to make sure I've got it all planned out as best I can before digging into it all.

Attaching a picture of everything I've got so far all connected up (as much as I can at the moment) and labeled.

20200916_121929235_iOS (1).jpg
 
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Ok, so this weekend is install time for me (Base 7” radio). After exhaustive research & re-reading this thread & the thread @Varilux created, I've gone the Alpine KTP-445U and Pac AmpPro AP-CH41(R.2) route. I've got an inexpensive powered subwoofer (Rockville RWS10CA) arriving in a few days. Already replaced the 4 3.5" speakers with Kicker47KSC3504.

I intend to give the factory speaker wiring a go since things are still going to be relatively low powered. I plan on using the drivers side "clutch" grommet to run my sub power to the battery.

I do have a couple quick questions.

@Sting_NC_USA - many posts ago you mentioned something about knowing what voltage your amp is putting out in order to determine whether to set the AmpPro to 4v or 5v. I don't see any output voltage specified for mine, only input. I assume I'll just try leaving at 5v and switch to 4v if any hiss/static?

I think I only saw 1 mention of the "sleep cycle" thing for the AmpPro. Hope everyone with a non-amplified factory radio is doing that and setting Dip 4 to On, per the instructions. I plan on it - just don't think I saw many people mention that step and thinks its pretty important.

As an FYI - as of today 9/16/20 - the AP-CH41 R2 has only had 1 firmware and it is what comes from the factory. So no need to do any firmware updates on it. v 2.1.3.15 is all that is on the website and what the R2 units are shipped with.I verified this with PAC as well. (I had seen some mention doing firmware updates on their R2's, there shouldn't be any need to. The device can be reset in other less intrusive ways as well in case you need to "reset it").

Regarding remote wires...

1. I should not need to use the Pac "remote output" wire, correct?

2. The blue/white remote wire on the input side of my amp should go to the 12v DC, correct?

3. The blue/white remote wire on the output side of my amp "could" be used for other purposes (to trigger a sub?) but I don't "need" to connect that one to anything, correct?

4. My sub will be in the back cargo area. I will be running main power up to the battery, and, for its remote, I plan on running it to the rear 12v DC adapter (and ensuring I move the fuse position in the fuse box so it isn't always powered). No issues here, right?

Just want to make sure I've got it all planned out as best I can before digging into it all.

Attaching a picture of everything I've got so far all connected up (as much as I can at the moment) and labeled.
The amp input output is wrong.
The colored wires with the 4pin connectors are actually the outputs of your amp that connect back to the factory speaker wires.
The RCA wires going to the PAC are your amp input wires.
The yellow is your power and your black is your ground. Not sure what to radio would mean.
 

sknyfats

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The amp input output is wrong.
The colored wires with the 4pin connectors are actually the outputs of your amp that connect back to the factory speaker wires.
The RCA wires going to the PAC are your amp input wires.
The yellow is your power and your black is your ground. Not sure what to radio would mean.
My bad on the Input / Output sides of the amp.
I updated the picture & the questions in the post to reflect the correct labling.
Yes about the Yellow/Black; like Varilux, I intend to tap into the factory radio harness, per the Alpine instructions, for both power & ground for this amp, so thats what "To radio" means for those wires.
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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Great thread, trying to read through is leaving me dizzy!

I saw some mention of a 2 door JL Stealthbox at the beginning and was wondering if anyone has any updates?
Sorry, not aware of any. Though you'd be better off (price-wise) to have something custom built at a local shop. I am a huge JL Audio fan, but their stealth box prices are outlandish.
 
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My bad on the Input / Output sides of the amp.
I updated the picture & the questions in the post to reflect the correct labling.
Yes about the Yellow/Black; like Varilux, I intend to tap into the factory radio harness, per the Alpine instructions, for both power & ground for this amp, so thats what "To radio" means for those wires.
Sandor nailed it, and I see you've updated the image. Your logic on the high/low voltage is solid. Start with the 5V, and adjust from there.

A quick recommendation:
  • I, personally, can't recommend powering any amp off of the stock harness. Understanding what the directions say, discrete power, directly from the battery, will be better.
Addressing your other questions:

1. I should not need to use the Pac "remote output" wire, correct?

Correct!​

2. The blue/white remote wire on the output side of my amp should go to the 12v DC, correct?

Don't think so, but read your manual. Your amp should have a Power, Remote and Ground wire cluster that's all together. Those are generally the input power/ground sources.​
Often, amps have an output 12V Trigger Source to trigger other amps/devices.​
Rely 100% on what your amp's manual says, but I'd question this one.​

3. The blue/white remote wire on the input side of my amp "could" be used for other purposes (to trigger a sub?) but I don't "need" to connect that one to anything, correct?

Based on the above answer to #2, I think you may have that backwards. Please confirm with your manual.​

4. My sub will be in the back cargo area. I will be running main power up to the battery, and, for its remote, I plan on running it to the rear 12v DC adapter (and ensuring I move the fuse position in the fuse box so it isn't always powered). No issues here, right?

The logic seems sound, especially since you understand the fuse swap. The question is whether or not that rear power source stays on with the Start/Stop feature of the Jeep. I'd recommend testing the voltage to see if, when the Jeep is powered off in a Start/Stop situation, that it maintains power. If not, your sub will cut out each time ESS engages.​

Hope the install goes well, and reach out if you need anything!
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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Jeep JL Audio build list, please help me validate:

Radio
7" UConnect that will be upgraded to Connect 8.4 ver 5 when I can find one at scrapper

Main Components
JL Audio VX700/5i: Full-Range Amplifier with Integrated DSP
JL Audio Stealthbox® for 2018-Up Jeep Wrangler 2 door ????
JL Audio C2-650 compnent speakers (Front)
JL Audio C2-400x 4-inch (100 mm) Coaxial Speaker System (Sound bar)

Installation parts
Metra JP-1014 Speaker Pods
99838, SBA-J-JL-FHB: 2018-Up Jeep Wrangler (JL) Fuse Holder Bracket
91656, XB-MFBU-ANL: Master ANL Fuse Block
99837, SBA-J-JLU-UAR: 2018-Up Jeep Wrangler (JL) Unlimited Universal Amplifier Rack
90355, XD-PCS4-1B: Premium 4 AWG 12 V Power Connection Kit, Single Amplifier
47K Ohm 5 watt Resistors

Notes:
I don't mind spending money but not looking to chop up sound bar especially as it is mostly used for fill. That being said, I have no issue upgrading anything that can fit in stock sounder speaker holes.

I would like to "replicate" the Alpine system by having an amp in the box, off the floor and use factory wiring

Current Questions:

What is considered the premium radio? The 8.4 or 7"? Or does it mean Alpine?

Thanks!
Premium is the 8.4" Alpine, though I would ask why you're upgrading the head unit. If it's because you want the extra features it offers, and you've researched after-market options, that's great. Buying an 8.4 is a lot of money, and there are other connections you need based on the features the 8.4 supports. The 7" will work fine for just the audio stuff.

In your build, I'm not seeing an LOC/DSP option. You'll need the PAC and/or the JL Fix86 or equivalent. If you haven't purchased everything already, see the end of post #1, as I've arranged a connection for forum members to get a discount through my contact. He's extremely helpful, too.

You may have seen mention of this from me earlier in this mega post, but a VXi amp will require more than the stock speaker wires can/should handle. The gauge is a bit small for that kind of power.

Solid build list!

PS: I think I responded to your stealth box question in a separate post.
 

sknyfats

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Sandor nailed it, and I see you've updated the image. Your logic on the high/low voltage is solid. Start with the 5V, and adjust from there.

A quick recommendation:
  • I, personally, can't recommend powering any amp off of the stock harness. Understanding what the directions say, discrete power, directly from the battery, will be better.
Addressing your other questions:

1. I should not need to use the Pac "remote output" wire, correct?

Correct!​

2. The blue/white remote wire on the output side of my amp should go to the 12v DC, correct?

Don't think so, but read your manual. Your amp should have a Power, Remote and Ground wire cluster that's all together. Those are generally the input power/ground sources.​
Often, amps have an output 12V Trigger Source to trigger other amps/devices.​
Rely 100% on what your amp's manual says, but I'd question this one.​

3. The blue/white remote wire on the input side of my amp "could" be used for other purposes (to trigger a sub?) but I don't "need" to connect that one to anything, correct?

Based on the above answer to #2, I think you may have that backwards. Please confirm with your manual.​

4. My sub will be in the back cargo area. I will be running main power up to the battery, and, for its remote, I plan on running it to the rear 12v DC adapter (and ensuring I move the fuse position in the fuse box so it isn't always powered). No issues here, right?

The logic seems sound, especially since you understand the fuse swap. The question is whether or not that rear power source stays on with the Start/Stop feature of the Jeep. I'd recommend testing the voltage to see if, when the Jeep is powered off in a Start/Stop situation, that it maintains power. If not, your sub will cut out each time ESS engages.​

Hope the install goes well, and reach out if you need anything!
Thanks!
And you are right about the remote wires. I was just rereading the amp instructions and it is clear to me that the one on the side of the inputs/RCA’s is what should go to my 12v DC. I won’t be using the other one on the output side of the amp.
So I’ll be doing the reverse of what my current image shows. Maybe I’ll update that and edit the post once more for future reference.
I was going back & forth on those based on several YouTube videos I watched. A few have it wrong/backwards.
 

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