just flat in the cargo area against the back seats. its load bearing so can just throw things on top if need.Where do you have this mounted?
Did you pull your audio feed from the sound bar of from the subwoofer harness? I've been trying to figure out what is best for powering just a woofer in a Jeep that has the Alpine system. I know that the feed is pulled from the sound bar for many, but most of those don't have a woofer feed to pull from.just flat in the cargo area against the back seats. its load bearing so can just throw things on top if need.
I left the factory sub in place bc didn't have the time to rip out yet. plus also wanted to keep the flexibility to add a larger sub later when brackets become more readily available.
like this... https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-using-same-housing.54580/page-4#post-1417777
I installed a new amp under the front passenger seat (and replaced front and soundbar speakers with 6.5's) and ran new speaker wire to the dash and soundbar (probably overkill though). I left the factory soundbar speaker wire (cut at the soundbar interconnect) and the factory sub speaker wire. If i venture down the path of replacing the factory sub, i'll probably just run a new speaker wire there as well.Did you pull your audio feed from the sound bar of from the subwoofer harness? I've been trying to figure out what is best for powering just a woofer in a Jeep that has the Alpine system. I know that the feed is pulled from the sound bar for many, but most of those don't have a woofer feed to pull from.
How are you liking this sub? I've been looking to purchase one to help fill in the sound.here's an alternative that i am using...
Long-time car audio enthusiast, first-time Wrangler owner.
This. Thread. Is. Incredible.
I own a 2020 JL Rubicon (premium Alpine system w/ 8.4" screen) that I am looking to upgrade. I had much experience upgrading car audio systems in my high school and college days, although those times are long gone. DSP and digital preamp adapters never existed back then...you can imagine my confusion when researching how to upgrade my new JL.
After thoroughly reading this thread (thank you Sting_NC) and others (shout out to CarStereoChick), I am ready to begin but need some guidance regarding the best amplifiers for my project.
Here are my parts:
PAC AmpPro AP4-CH1 R.2Morel Hybrid 62 component (woofer in front kickpanel, tweeter in dash)Morel Hybrid Integra 62 coaxial (soundbar)(2) JL Audio Stealthbox 10TW1Metra JP-1014 speaker podsSSV Works soundbar adapter
I originally planned on running the JL Audio VX1000/5i bridged to supply the front components (200W per channel @ 4 ohm) and subs (600W @ 2 ohm). I would then run the JL Audio XD400/4v2 bridged to the soundbar coaxials (200W per channel @ 4 ohm).
The XD400 does not have built-in DSP. Is this a problem? Am I able to pass-through the DSP capabilities of the VX1000/5i to the XD400 or do I need to replace the XD400 with another VXi series amplifier?
Is this the best combination of amplifiers? Should I instead consider the JL Audio VX800/8i to power both front components and soundbar coaxials (8 channels bridged to 4), in addition to a monoblock amp for the subs such as the JL Audio XD600/1v2? Is there any strategy in terms of how to split power between amplifiers?
Lastly, the Morels are built very solidly. Given my proposed setup, is there any need to dynamat and/or polyfill the Metra speaker pods or soundbar? I don't want to rip apart the dash or soundbar more than once!
Thank you all!
This is infinitely helpful. So with the VX800/8i, I would run one channel to each woofer and tweeter of my front Morel Hybrid component set (4 channels total)? And then literally just leave the passive crossover units in the box to collect dust? And the tweeters will be able to handle 100W power? I am assuming that there will be some effort involved in setting gains and crossovers in the DSP. I do plan on installing the JL Audio DRC-205 knob for on-the-fly control.You're on the right track with the 800/8, that's what I'm running, and the clarity is ridiculous. Instead of bridging all channels, get rid of the crossover your separates come with, and consider running a discrete, amplified signal to each individual speaker component. You'll have overwhelming control of your system, given you'll have full control of every single speaker (crossover, timing, EQ, etc.). If you stick with the coax's in the sound bar, you can simply bridge those channels, and it couldn't be easier with the 800/8. It's a decision you simply won't regret.
With all of that said, I'd still recommend running a separate sub amp. And here's where I'll inject a slight bit of personal opinion. Depending on how much strength you wish to add in the sub ranges, the XD400 and the 2 JL Audio Stealth boxes will add a nice kick. They will sound good, just not exceptional. That's a completely subjective perspective.
Now you're talking. Whether you get the ProWedge or have a box custom made, you can indeed remove it anytime you need, especially if you use banana plugs for your connectors. If you insert a toggle switch in-line with with the ground wire running to your stock sub, you could toggle it on/off when you're running the stock sub or W7.This is infinitely helpful. So with the VX800/8i, I would run one channel to each woofer and tweeter of my front Morel Hybrid component set (4 channels total)? And then literally just leave the passive crossover units in the box to collect dust? And the tweeters will be able to handle 100W power? I am assuming that there will be some effort involved in setting gains and crossovers in the DSP. I do plan on installing the JL Audio DRC-205 knob for on-the-fly control.
I had initially planned on running the Stealthboxes to keep the vehicle appearance as stock as possible. The JLU is our family's "road trip/car camping" vehicle, so preserving cargo space is a mild priority.
However, I totally appreciate the difference between "good" bass and "hair tingling" bass. My vehicle from a previous life ran an old 12" Phoenix Gold sub at 1000W in a massive ported enclosure...the sound was earth-shattering if I needed it to be (...and accurate). However, with the JLU being a hybrid "Dad's weekend toy" and "family" vehicle, I can't afford to sacrifice the cargo area for such a sub enclosure.
In taking your recommendations into consideration, I wonder if there are any space conscious options that involve using a single JL Audio 12". I was searching JL Audio's website and found the W7 ProWedge which could fit behind the rear seat and be easily removed if need be. Thoughts?
It would be really nice to be able to somehow choose between the W7 and the factory Alpine sub. For days when I'm cruising by myself with the top down, I can roll with the W7 in the rear, bass blasting. For days when the family is in tow and I need the cargo space, I can remove the W7 enclosure and use the factory Alpine sub instead.
OK this is exciting. Sting, I cannot begin to tell you how gracious I am for your help and the assistance of this thread.Now you're talking. Whether you get the ProWedge or have a box custom made, you can indeed remove it anytime you need, especially if you use banana plugs for your connectors. If you insert a toggle switch in-line with with the ground wire running to your stock sub, you could toggle it on/off when you're running the stock sub or W7.
You're so very welcome! This is fun, rewarding stuff, and often the build is as enjoyable as the outcome.OK this is exciting. Sting, I cannot begin to tell you how gracious I am for your help and the assistance of this thread.
The ability to toggle between subs would be a game-changer. I am a little unclear on how to keep the factory Alpine sub functional alongside the new sub and speakers, as I'll be running all new factory speaker wire and RCAs/TOSLINK (undecided) when I install the Morels. Do you have any additional details on how to set up the "factory Alpine sub toggle" or am I completely missing something obvious?
In any case, if I go with the 12" W7 (ProWedge or custom box), what amplifier would you recommend? I am admittedly preferential to JL Audio for their high build quality, excellent customer service and USA-based production. While I can use the DSP pass-through from the VX800/8i to the sub amp of my choosing, is there any significant benefit to powering the sub with another VXi series amp (i.e. VX1000/1i)? I am concerned that many larger monoblock amps may not fit beneath the JLU's driver seat (I will be mounting amps using JL Audio's SBA-J-JLU-UAR underseat brackets). The JL Audio XD1000/1v2 is incompatible with this bracket.
I will be putting a call into PAC first thing in the morning re: keeping the Alpine factory sub. Will keep everyone posted as to their direction.For amp choice, you don't need a VXi for the Sub. I really can say there's benefits of adding it or not, since you're controlling the VXi through a tablet or laptop. Both amps would use the same interface, and even if I were installing a second VXi, I'd still use the pass-through and control it from the main amp. If you were to go crazy with multiple amps, using the VXi network switching, then yes, having VXi amps at all locations would be preferred. In a two-amp system, get whatever is powerful enough, with clean sound to support your sub and space requirements.
I don't see anything that specifically addresses the Alpine sub, other than a note that states all stock amps must remain connected. It's very possible that the stock sub will still be running after the PAC install. I'm hoping someone with that setup can chime in.
A quick call to PAC would be recommended, as I try not to advise on anything I haven't done myself, though I really do believe the ability to toggle between subs, by adding an in-line switch, is possible!