Crusifix

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Where did you get the sub cover?





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Crusifix

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just flat in the cargo area against the back seats. its load bearing so can just throw things on top if need.
I left the factory sub in place bc didn't have the time to rip out yet. plus also wanted to keep the flexibility to add a larger sub later when brackets become more readily available.
like this... https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-using-same-housing.54580/page-4#post-1417777

IMG_3052 (1).jpg
Did you pull your audio feed from the sound bar of from the subwoofer harness? I've been trying to figure out what is best for powering just a woofer in a Jeep that has the Alpine system. I know that the feed is pulled from the sound bar for many, but most of those don't have a woofer feed to pull from.
 

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Did you pull your audio feed from the sound bar of from the subwoofer harness? I've been trying to figure out what is best for powering just a woofer in a Jeep that has the Alpine system. I know that the feed is pulled from the sound bar for many, but most of those don't have a woofer feed to pull from.
I installed a new amp under the front passenger seat (and replaced front and soundbar speakers with 6.5's) and ran new speaker wire to the dash and soundbar (probably overkill though). I left the factory soundbar speaker wire (cut at the soundbar interconnect) and the factory sub speaker wire. If i venture down the path of replacing the factory sub, i'll probably just run a new speaker wire there as well.

by the way, i really like you 3D print. really interested to hear how it installs / sounds.
 

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Long-time car audio enthusiast, first-time Wrangler owner.

This. Thread. Is. Incredible.

I own a 2020 JL Rubicon (premium Alpine system w/ 8.4" screen) that I am looking to upgrade. I had much experience upgrading car audio systems in my high school and college days, although those times are long gone. DSP and digital preamp adapters never existed back then...you can imagine my confusion when researching how to upgrade my new JL.

After thoroughly reading this thread (thank you Sting_NC) and others (shout out to CarStereoChick), I am ready to begin but need some guidance regarding the best amplifiers for my project.

Here are my parts:

PAC AmpPro AP4-CH1 R.2​
Morel Hybrid 62 component (woofer in front kickpanel, tweeter in dash)​
Morel Hybrid Integra 62 coaxial (soundbar)​
(2) JL Audio Stealthbox 10TW1​
Metra JP-1014 speaker pods​
SSV Works soundbar adapter​

I originally planned on running the JL Audio VX1000/5i bridged to supply the front components (200W per channel @ 4 ohm) and subs (600W @ 2 ohm). I would then run the JL Audio XD400/4v2 bridged to the soundbar coaxials (200W per channel @ 4 ohm).

The XD400 does not have built-in DSP. Is this a problem? Am I able to pass-through the DSP capabilities of the VX1000/5i to the XD400 or do I need to replace the XD400 with another VXi series amplifier?

Is this the best combination of amplifiers? Should I instead consider the JL Audio VX800/8i to power both front components and soundbar coaxials (8 channels bridged to 4), in addition to a monoblock amp for the subs such as the JL Audio XD600/1v2? Is there any strategy in terms of how to split power between amplifiers?

Lastly, the Morels are built very solidly. Given my proposed setup, is there any need to dynamat and/or polyfill the Metra speaker pods or soundbar? I don't want to rip apart the dash or soundbar more than once!

Thank you all!
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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Long-time car audio enthusiast, first-time Wrangler owner.

This. Thread. Is. Incredible.

I own a 2020 JL Rubicon (premium Alpine system w/ 8.4" screen) that I am looking to upgrade. I had much experience upgrading car audio systems in my high school and college days, although those times are long gone. DSP and digital preamp adapters never existed back then...you can imagine my confusion when researching how to upgrade my new JL.

After thoroughly reading this thread (thank you Sting_NC) and others (shout out to CarStereoChick), I am ready to begin but need some guidance regarding the best amplifiers for my project.

Here are my parts:

PAC AmpPro AP4-CH1 R.2​
Morel Hybrid 62 component (woofer in front kickpanel, tweeter in dash)​
Morel Hybrid Integra 62 coaxial (soundbar)​
(2) JL Audio Stealthbox 10TW1​
Metra JP-1014 speaker pods​
SSV Works soundbar adapter​

I originally planned on running the JL Audio VX1000/5i bridged to supply the front components (200W per channel @ 4 ohm) and subs (600W @ 2 ohm). I would then run the JL Audio XD400/4v2 bridged to the soundbar coaxials (200W per channel @ 4 ohm).

The XD400 does not have built-in DSP. Is this a problem? Am I able to pass-through the DSP capabilities of the VX1000/5i to the XD400 or do I need to replace the XD400 with another VXi series amplifier?

Is this the best combination of amplifiers? Should I instead consider the JL Audio VX800/8i to power both front components and soundbar coaxials (8 channels bridged to 4), in addition to a monoblock amp for the subs such as the JL Audio XD600/1v2? Is there any strategy in terms of how to split power between amplifiers?

Lastly, the Morels are built very solidly. Given my proposed setup, is there any need to dynamat and/or polyfill the Metra speaker pods or soundbar? I don't want to rip apart the dash or soundbar more than once!

Thank you all!

Glad you're finding the resources here helpful @Aunt Minnie! You've got some great gear picked out there, and the best news is you CAN use the pass-through from the VXi to feed your XD amp and have all of the same control.

You're on the right track with the 800/8, that's what I'm running, and the clarity is ridiculous. Instead of bridging all channels, get rid of the crossover your separates come with, and consider running a discrete, amplified signal to each individual speaker component. You'll have overwhelming control of your system, given you'll have full control of every single speaker (crossover, timing, EQ, etc.). If you stick with the coax's in the sound bar, you can simply bridge those channels, and it couldn't be easier with the 800/8. It's a decision you simply won't regret.

With all of that said, I'd still recommend running a separate sub amp. And here's where I'll inject a slight bit of personal opinion. Depending on how much strength you wish to add in the sub ranges, the XD400 and the 2 JL Stealth boxes will add a nice kick. They will sound good, just not exceptional. That's a completely subjective perspective.

For the money you'll spend on two of the Stealth subs (TW1's), you could invest in a single W6 or W7 woofer (or anything in the cleaner, high range sub variety). With a 750+ watt amp and a 10", or a 1,000+ watt amp and the 12", the hair on the back of your neck will stand up, but only when you choose to push it (controlled by a VXi amp profile and bass control setting chosen with their more advanced control knobs).

Plus, the gentleman I refer to at the end of post #1 can help our forum members even more, closing the gap on what you're building and the difference in the cost between your original plan and the recommendation here.

If space is more important, there's no fault in sticking with your original plan. Once again, the Stealth's will sound good. Your decision really boils down to paying for "stealth" and space vs. "kick." I'm not one of those guys who rides around rattling the windshield, I simply prefer clean, powerful sound and the ability to add bass to older songs (think classic rock) that weren't recorded with the heavier bass drum equalization used today in most genres.

Well, there I go again with likely more detail than asked for, though fire back with any questions/comments and the group will surely chime in.

PS: Yes, add some Dynomat and Polyfill. Always recommended, but there's no reason to go crazy with the Dynomat.
 

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You're on the right track with the 800/8, that's what I'm running, and the clarity is ridiculous. Instead of bridging all channels, get rid of the crossover your separates come with, and consider running a discrete, amplified signal to each individual speaker component. You'll have overwhelming control of your system, given you'll have full control of every single speaker (crossover, timing, EQ, etc.). If you stick with the coax's in the sound bar, you can simply bridge those channels, and it couldn't be easier with the 800/8. It's a decision you simply won't regret.

With all of that said, I'd still recommend running a separate sub amp. And here's where I'll inject a slight bit of personal opinion. Depending on how much strength you wish to add in the sub ranges, the XD400 and the 2 JL Audio Stealth boxes will add a nice kick. They will sound good, just not exceptional. That's a completely subjective perspective.
This is infinitely helpful. So with the VX800/8i, I would run one channel to each woofer and tweeter of my front Morel Hybrid component set (4 channels total)? And then literally just leave the passive crossover units in the box to collect dust? And the tweeters will be able to handle 100W power? I am assuming that there will be some effort involved in setting gains and crossovers in the DSP. I do plan on installing the JL Audio DRC-205 knob for on-the-fly control.

I had initially planned on running the Stealthboxes to keep the vehicle appearance as stock as possible. The JLU is our family's "road trip/car camping" vehicle, so preserving cargo space is a mild priority.

However, I totally appreciate the difference between "good" bass and "hair tingling" bass. My vehicle from a previous life ran an old 12" Phoenix Gold sub at 1000W in a massive ported enclosure...the sound was earth-shattering if I needed it to be (...and accurate). However, with the JLU being a hybrid "Dad's weekend toy" and "family" vehicle, I can't afford to sacrifice the cargo area for such a sub enclosure.

In taking your recommendations into consideration, I wonder if there are any space conscious options that involve using a single JL Audio 12". I was searching JL Audio's website and found the W7 ProWedge which could fit behind the rear seat and be easily removed if need be. Thoughts?

It would be really nice to be able to somehow choose between the W7 and the factory Alpine sub. For days when I'm cruising by myself with the top down, I can roll with the W7 in the rear, bass blasting. For days when the family is in tow and I need the cargo space, I can remove the W7 enclosure and use the factory Alpine sub instead.
 
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This is infinitely helpful. So with the VX800/8i, I would run one channel to each woofer and tweeter of my front Morel Hybrid component set (4 channels total)? And then literally just leave the passive crossover units in the box to collect dust? And the tweeters will be able to handle 100W power? I am assuming that there will be some effort involved in setting gains and crossovers in the DSP. I do plan on installing the JL Audio DRC-205 knob for on-the-fly control.

I had initially planned on running the Stealthboxes to keep the vehicle appearance as stock as possible. The JLU is our family's "road trip/car camping" vehicle, so preserving cargo space is a mild priority.

However, I totally appreciate the difference between "good" bass and "hair tingling" bass. My vehicle from a previous life ran an old 12" Phoenix Gold sub at 1000W in a massive ported enclosure...the sound was earth-shattering if I needed it to be (...and accurate). However, with the JLU being a hybrid "Dad's weekend toy" and "family" vehicle, I can't afford to sacrifice the cargo area for such a sub enclosure.

In taking your recommendations into consideration, I wonder if there are any space conscious options that involve using a single JL Audio 12". I was searching JL Audio's website and found the W7 ProWedge which could fit behind the rear seat and be easily removed if need be. Thoughts?

It would be really nice to be able to somehow choose between the W7 and the factory Alpine sub. For days when I'm cruising by myself with the top down, I can roll with the W7 in the rear, bass blasting. For days when the family is in tow and I need the cargo space, I can remove the W7 enclosure and use the factory Alpine sub instead.
Now you're talking. Whether you get the ProWedge or have a box custom made, you can indeed remove it anytime you need, especially if you use banana plugs for your connectors. If you insert a toggle switch in-line with with the ground wire running to your stock sub, you could toggle it on/off when you're running the stock sub or W7.

And yes, you would simply leave the component speakers' crossover in the box, using the VXi's capabilities. The RMS capacity of the VXi should match the Morel's speaker specs, but please validate that for yourself. You just need to ensure the VXi's crossover settings are set according to each component's capabilities. This is one of the newer (relatively) trends in car audio. Very Clean Power!
 

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Now you're talking. Whether you get the ProWedge or have a box custom made, you can indeed remove it anytime you need, especially if you use banana plugs for your connectors. If you insert a toggle switch in-line with with the ground wire running to your stock sub, you could toggle it on/off when you're running the stock sub or W7.
OK this is exciting. Sting, I cannot begin to tell you how gracious I am for your help and the assistance of this thread.

The ability to toggle between subs would be a game-changer. I am a little unclear on how to keep the factory Alpine sub functional alongside the new sub and speakers, as I'll be running all new factory speaker wire and RCAs/TOSLINK (undecided) when I install the Morels. Do you have any additional details on how to set up the "factory Alpine sub toggle" or am I completely missing something obvious?

In any case, if I go with the 12" W7 (ProWedge or custom box), what amplifier would you recommend? I am admittedly preferential to JL Audio for their high build quality, excellent customer service and USA-based production. While I can use the DSP pass-through from the VX800/8i to the sub amp of my choosing, is there any significant benefit to powering the sub with another VXi series amp (i.e. VX1000/1i)? I am concerned that many larger monoblock amps may not fit beneath the JLU's driver seat (I will be mounting amps using JL Audio's SBA-J-JLU-UAR underseat brackets). The JL Audio XD1000/1v2 is incompatible with this bracket.
 
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OK this is exciting. Sting, I cannot begin to tell you how gracious I am for your help and the assistance of this thread.

The ability to toggle between subs would be a game-changer. I am a little unclear on how to keep the factory Alpine sub functional alongside the new sub and speakers, as I'll be running all new factory speaker wire and RCAs/TOSLINK (undecided) when I install the Morels. Do you have any additional details on how to set up the "factory Alpine sub toggle" or am I completely missing something obvious?

In any case, if I go with the 12" W7 (ProWedge or custom box), what amplifier would you recommend? I am admittedly preferential to JL Audio for their high build quality, excellent customer service and USA-based production. While I can use the DSP pass-through from the VX800/8i to the sub amp of my choosing, is there any significant benefit to powering the sub with another VXi series amp (i.e. VX1000/1i)? I am concerned that many larger monoblock amps may not fit beneath the JLU's driver seat (I will be mounting amps using JL Audio's SBA-J-JLU-UAR underseat brackets). The JL Audio XD1000/1v2 is incompatible with this bracket.
You're so very welcome! This is fun, rewarding stuff, and often the build is as enjoyable as the outcome.

For amp choice, you don't need a VXi for the Sub. I really can say there's benefits of adding it or not, since you're controlling the VXi through a tablet or laptop. Both amps would use the same interface, and even if I were installing a second VXi, I'd still use the pass-through and control it from the main amp. If you were to go crazy with multiple amps, using the VXi network switching, then yes, having VXi amps at all locations would be preferred. In a two-amp system, get whatever is powerful enough, with clean sound to support your sub and space requirements.

I'll preface these next comments with the fact that I run the base system and do not have the 8.4/Alpine system.

The PAC comes with a two harness T-Adapter. Once side of the PAC harness plugs into the back of your stock head unit, and the original/stock harness plugs into the other side of the PAC's harness. This "in-line" connection runs the PAC's interface (the blue box) which contains the RCA Out connectors, dip switches, etc.

The PAC also comes with a wire "dongle" that plugs into the back-side of the harness. This "Dongle" allows you to run your amp's speaker wires back through the stock harness, essentially sending an amplified signal from your new amp through the stock wiring that feeds the stock speaker locations.

I don't see anything that specifically addresses the Alpine sub, other than a note that states all stock amps must remain connected. It's very possible that the stock sub will still be running after the PAC install. I'm hoping someone with that setup can chime in.

A quick call to PAC would be recommended, as I try not to advise on anything I haven't done myself, though I really do believe the ability to toggle between subs, by adding an in-line switch, is possible!
 

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For amp choice, you don't need a VXi for the Sub. I really can say there's benefits of adding it or not, since you're controlling the VXi through a tablet or laptop. Both amps would use the same interface, and even if I were installing a second VXi, I'd still use the pass-through and control it from the main amp. If you were to go crazy with multiple amps, using the VXi network switching, then yes, having VXi amps at all locations would be preferred. In a two-amp system, get whatever is powerful enough, with clean sound to support your sub and space requirements.

I don't see anything that specifically addresses the Alpine sub, other than a note that states all stock amps must remain connected. It's very possible that the stock sub will still be running after the PAC install. I'm hoping someone with that setup can chime in.

A quick call to PAC would be recommended, as I try not to advise on anything I haven't done myself, though I really do believe the ability to toggle between subs, by adding an in-line switch, is possible!
I will be putting a call into PAC first thing in the morning re: keeping the Alpine factory sub. Will keep everyone posted as to their direction.

Some quick system updates after taking some measurements and thinking things through:
  • I am having trouble finding a 1000+W mono amplifier that will easily fit underneath the driver seat (my planned install site for the sub amp). For a clean look, I am planning to mount amplifiers beneath both seats using the JL Audio SBA-J-JLU-UAR mounting bracket. While the VX1000/1i will fit this bracket, I don't need the DSP capabilities that justifies this amp's high price (...I will use DSP pass-through from the VX800/8i). JL Audio's other monoblock amps (HD1200/1, XD1000/1v2, Slash 1200/1v3, etc.) do not fit this bracket.
  • I have some research to do re: sealed vs. ported sub enclosures in a topless JLU. However, my gut tells me that a ported enclosure will be a better match for combating road noise with the top off after loss of cabin gain. Taking this into consideration, the monstrous JL Audio W7 12" HO enclosure (HO112R-W7AE) seems to fit the bill. Unfortunately, I have ruled this out due to it's absolutely behemoth size and requirement of a large amplifier (i.e. one that won't fit the mounting bracket beneath the seat).
  • As such, I am STRONGLY CONSIDERING the JL Audio 12" W6v3 HO enclosure (HO112-W6v3). This sub takes up less cargo real estate, has a lower power requirement (600W) and is less expensive. By going with this sub, I can use the JL Audio XD600/1v2. This will easily mount beneath the driver seat on the JL mounting bracket.
Does anyone have any experience with audio system installs in our vehicles comparing 2 JL Audio Stealthboxes (10" TW1 subs x 2 @ 300W RMS each) vs. 1 JL Audio 12" W7 sub (sealed or ported - 1000W RMS) vs. 1 JL Audio 12" W6v3 sub (sealed or ported - 600W RMS)?
 

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