AusJeepNoob

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Thanks to Sting and all of those who have posted in this thread. I've just spent 4 days of work lunch time and after hours reading from start to finish. Lots of info to get me going on upgrades.

Back in the mid to late 90s I had a very simple but great sounding system that has kind of spoiled me in terms of what I consider to be a acceptable. For those that were in the game back then it consisted of:

  • Phillips DC942 HU
  • Phoenix Gold EQ215ix for equalization
  • PPI A600.2 rated at 150WRMS x 2 into 4Ohms / 600WRMS x 1 into 4 Ohms
  • Polk MM3000 tweeters
  • Kicker R6 midbass/midrange
  • JL 10W6 x 3 in a ported box
It was good enough to get 19.6/20 for SQ at a sanctioned comp and was almost flat for response on an RTA.

In Australia we get the uConnect 8.4 with sub as standard on the Rubicon. I was hoping it might be enough but I've currently got the internal EQ set at +max for bass, flat for midbass and -max for treble and still find the sound too bright with nowhere near enough bass for my liking. I did stuff the sub enclosure with poly fill which has made a difference to the low end but still not enough for me.

I still have the PPI amp and also have an LC2i so stage 1 of my plan is to put a DD SL710 in the factory enclosure and use the PPI amp to power it. Although I don't really want to, I think I'm going to put the amp in the rear storage compartment as I don't think it will fit under the front seats.

Stage 2 will involve some sort of LOC/DSP (Pac/JL Fix/RF DSR1/iDatalink Maestro AR/have I missed any?), Metra pods, 6.5" component fronts (undecided on brand and 2way/3way), standard size component sound bar replacements (just better quality), 8 channel main amp to run full active and a small form (fit under the seat) amp to power the sub. I've already got decent cable, rcas, etc from previous systems I've installed and removed over the years.

Any comments on things that I might have missed or thoughts on my selections appreciated.





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AusJeepNoob

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@Sting_NC_USA I don't know if you want to add this to the original post but this is the info I got from FCA when I asked them about the specs of the Premium Audio system. I've tested the sub when I had it out of the enclosure and it's 4 x 2Ohm VC.

Speaker sizes and power handling capacity
  • IP contains two 3.5" on top, two 4.5" within enclosures (lower part of dash).
  • Overhead sound bar contains the same set of these 4 speakers.
  • all speakers are driven by 46W chip from the amplifier, but rated at 50W (max).

Subwoofer size and power handling capacity
  • 10", 50W per coil. Four coils, so rated 200W total

Subwoofer enclosure volume
  • 16L

Amplifier power output in WRMS
  • 12channels, 46W each = 552W
 
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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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Thanks to Sting and all of those who have posted in this thread. I've just spent 4 days of work lunch time and after hours reading from start to finish. Lots of info to get me going on upgrades.

Back in the mid to late 90s I had a very simple but great sounding system that has kind of spoiled me in terms of what I consider to be a acceptable. For those that were in the game back then it consisted of:

  • Phillips DC942 HU
  • Phoenix Gold EQ215ix for equalization
  • PPI A600.2 rated at 150WRMS x 2 into 4Ohms / 600WRMS x 1 into 4 Ohms
  • Polk MM3000 tweeters
  • Kicker R6 midbass/midrange
  • JL 10W6 x 3 in a ported box
It was good enough to get 19.6/20 for SQ at a sanctioned comp and was almost flat for response on an RTA.

In Australia we get the uConnect 8.4 with sub as standard on the Rubicon. I was hoping it might be enough but I've currently got the internal EQ set at +max for bass, flat for midbass and -max for treble and still find the sound too bright with nowhere near enough bass for my liking. I did stuff the sub enclosure with poly fill which has made a difference to the low end but still not enough for me.

I still have the PPI amp and also have an LC2i so stage 1 of my plan is to put a DD SL710 in the factory enclosure and use the PPI amp to power it. Although I don't really want to, I think I'm going to put the amp in the rear storage compartment as I don't think it will fit under the front seats.

Stage 2 will involve some sort of LOC/DSP (Pac/JL Fix/RF DSR1/iDatalink Maestro AR/have I missed any?), Metra pods, 6.5" component fronts (undecided on brand and 2way/3way), standard size component sound bar replacements (just better quality), 8 channel main amp to run full active and a small form (fit under the seat) amp to power the sub. I've already got decent cable, rcas, etc from previous systems I've installed and removed over the years.

Any comments on things that I might have missed or thoughts on my selections appreciated.
Good plan. The staged approach is a good one, and it allows you to pace yourself. My only comment is that technology has really come a long way with all of this gear. Several amp manufacturers now offer built in DSP's, or you can also add a DSP before your existing (older) amp. Your decision to go with an 8 channel amp, running a discrete signal to each speaker is on point. I originally thought it would be a waste of power, but it's so clean sounding it's ridiculous.

I also find that the power efficiency of the newer amps tax the battery much less than the older ones. The power efficiency and the built-in DSP features are what drove me to get rid of my old gear. Looks like you're on track for a great build.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 
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Kidcia

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Quick question. Has anyone experienced battery drainage and flickering lights in any of there bigger installs? I know a better battery would work and im already considering the genesis offroad setup. But i dont feel like im over doing the 2 battery setup i already have. Im considering my grounding to be an issue. Only the 4 channel amp under my seat causes engine noise continuously and ive rerouted my rcas with no change. Plus my lights dim and battery drains so much the start stop no longer functions cause its in safety mode. I used a ground more towards the door. Which id like to change. And my power wire is on the positive post but towards the back which ill be switching over. I have the jl3001, 1200x1 kicker amp, 1600x4 ds18 amp( 95watt per channel) and a american soundbar yet to be installed due to power drain. And I’m very open to suggestion
 

emart45

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So I finally caved and decided to listen to you Sting :)
I have a JLU with the hard top, alpine comps (R series) in the front and soundbar, the SSV works sub enclosure with an alpine sub and the Pac+Amp combo installed.
I chose to go this route due to the easy and proven solution and I got the AudioControl LC6.1200 amp that I am more than happy with. But, there is always a but, the sound was still a little "boxy". So I decided to put liners on my top, went with Coverking, great product and got me a little improvement of the sound. But (told ya, there is always a but) the boxyness is still not completely gone and I need a little warmth in the mid section, so I decided to go and get a DSP.
You were right @Sting_NC_USA gotta flatten those signals before amplifying to make it sound right. Still debating whether I want to throw away the PAC completely and install a Fix86 or keep it and install something downstream from the PAC and upstream the amp like the Twk88 or the AudioControl DM608. The DM608 could function either like the Fix86 or the Twk88 as it accepts both speaker and line level inputs, besides the TOSLINK) so I am leaning towards that, and I also do love AudioControl as their stuff has been just great (not to mention the BT connectivity option).

Respectfully, some updates to your original post.
In the meantime AudioControl came out with two new Load Generating Devices, the ones you've tried are outdated now as far as I know.
There is a 20ohm (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD20/AudioControl-AC-LGD-20.html?tp=90107) and a 60ohm (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD60/AudioControl-AC-LGD-60.html?tp=90107) set. The latter should do the trick.

Also your link to the resistors does not work, but PAC has a set now for sale https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LR475/PAC-LR475.html

Once I decide which DSP it will be and install it, I'll get back to y'all, but fellas, I'm pretty sure Sting was right :D
I just ordered the SSV subwoofer enclosure. Are you happy with the box? Do you know the max depth the box will accept from a sub? My sub is 7" deep but cant find any information on their site to find out the depth.
 
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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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Quick question. Has anyone experienced battery drainage and flickering lights in any of there bigger installs? I know a better battery would work and im already considering the genesis offroad setup. But i dont feel like im over doing the 2 battery setup i already have. Im considering my grounding to be an issue. Only the 4 channel amp under my seat causes engine noise continuously and ive rerouted my rcas with no change. Plus my lights dim and battery drains so much the start stop no longer functions cause its in safety mode. I used a ground more towards the door. Which id like to change. And my power wire is on the positive post but towards the back which ill be switching over. I have the jl3001, 1200x1 kicker amp, 1600x4 ds18 amp( 95watt per channel) and a american soundbar yet to be installed due to power drain. And I’m very open to suggestion
Definitely sounds like a combination of a grounding issue and a weak auxiliary battery.

Troubleshooting engine noise can be a bit tedious, though make sure your battery's ground cable is very snug, and ensure the ground wires all along the passenger side of the engine compartment are tight. Also, validate you're using a heavy gauge ground wire on your amp that's secured tightly to a non-painted metal grounding post. It may also be worth ensuring that all connections to your amp have properly secured heat-shrink that extends all the way to the terminal of each connector, with zero wire fragments sticking out. If all else fails, you could try adding ground-loop isolators to your RCA's, but that's truly a last resort option.

The setup you have really shouldn't be causing the lights to flicker. Admittedly, never really pushed the stock batteries too hard, as I converted to the dual battery setup very shortly after @Genesis Offroad released the option for the JL's. No issues since. Before the upgrade, I did fight a problematic AUX battery constantly, even with the dealership testing and stating the battery was still good. I'd lose ESS constantly, and often other issues/alerts would arise. None of that has occurred since upgrading to the dual setup.
 

Kidcia

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Definitely sounds like a combination of a grounding issue and a weak auxiliary battery.

Troubleshooting engine noise can be a bit tedious, though make sure your battery's ground cable is very snug, and ensure the ground wires all along the passenger side of the engine compartment are tight. Also, validate you're using a heavy gauge ground wire on your amp that's secured tightly to a non-painted metal grounding post. It may also be worth ensuring that all connections to your amp have properly secured heat-shrink that extends all the way to the terminal of each connector, with zero wire fragments sticking out. If all else fails, you could try adding ground-loop isolators to your RCA's, but that's truly a last resort option.

The setup you have really shouldn't be causing the lights to flicker. Admittedly, never really pushed the stock batteries too hard, as I converted to the dual battery setup very shortly after @Genesis Offroad released the option for the JL's. No issues since. Before the upgrade, I did fight a problematic AUX battery constantly, even with the dealership testing and stating the battery was still good. I'd lose ESS constantly, and often other issues/alerts would arise. None of that has occurred since upgrading to the dual setup.
Im removing and reinstalling my system bow. Changing my ground point idk where yet. But i may just have to upgrade to some high quality agm. I doubt my dealership will even diag my car with all ive done already. Heres to 5 years diag experience making its way!
 

guitarshredder7

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Let me just say... wow. Super informative write up. This has made me go from considering my first ever audio shop install to actually doing it myself like I have in the past.

My setup:
JTR 7 inch Uconnect

My plan:
Modest (not cheap but not expensive) 5 channel amplifier
Modest speakers in kick panel and sound bar
10/8 inch subwoofer under rear seat

My questions:
If I just have the 7 incher, all I need is resistors and a line output converter to run to the amp, correct? I should be able to add the resistors behind the radio and just add the LOC right behind thoseright?

What should I do about the volume rolloff that occurs at around volume 30?

Anything else I missed? Thanks everyone!!
 

nonebeter99

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I just finished my stereo upgrade. My first change was from the 7" to the OEM 8.4” Uconnect system. I found a like-new one on eBay for $1,100. That install took about 30 minutes and within a few hours, it had synced up with my Jeep and everything worked great. I did lose the center console USB port, which is a known issue with upgrading to the 8.4”. I was able to sell my 7” for about $500 to offset the cost of the upgrade. The sound is quite good and is definitely louder. The lower impedance tweeters must be drawing more power in from the factory unit. I did not use resistors anywhere and I have not experienced any issues with the head unit cutting out. I installed the included bass control knob that came with my Kicker amp so that I can easily control the sub. I turned the bass down to -2 on the factory EQ.

Here are the components I added:
Infinity Reference Tweeters (these are plug and play for the front dash and roll bar tweeters as many others have mentioned). I have no clue how anyone managed to fit these into the roll bar WITH the bass blockers. There's hardly any room in there.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R3032CM/Infinity-Reference-REF-3032cfx.html

Metra speaker wire adapters (these make the swapping out of the tweeters very simple). If you're replacing the kick panel or the 4" speakers in the roll bar, you will need different adapters.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120727902/Metra-72-7902-Speaker-Wiring-Adapters.html

Kicker 300W mono amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-B5eglsc3yWR/p_206CXA3001/Kicker-43CXA300-1.html

JL Audio amp rack (makes it so you can seamlessly mount the amp under the passenger seat)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699837/JL-Audio-SBA-J-JLU-UAR.html

JL Audio Stealthbox (crazy expensive, but the only subwoofer I could find with great sound that also kept a very clean look)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694666/JL-Audio-Stealthbox-2-ohm-Passenger-Side.html

Kicker Line Input Converter (I tapped into the rear speaker wires in the B Pillar)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646KISL/Kicker-46KISL.html

Amp install kit
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/

JL.jpg
 
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So I have a 2021 base sport wrangler. 5” display. 2 dr. I just bought an amp and dual 8” subs. Came with all the wiring and everything as well. How would I go about hooking up the rca cables? I know how to run everything else just not sure on how to hook up them up to the radio. Thank you for any help.
 

guitarshredder7

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So I have a 2021 base sport wrangler. 5” display. 2 dr. I just bought an amp and dual 8” subs. Came with all the wiring and everything as well. How would I go about hooking up the rca cables? I know how to run everything else just not sure on how to hook up them up to the radio. Thank you for any help.
did you get a line output converter?
 

nonebeter99

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So I have a 2021 base sport wrangler. 5” display. 2 dr. I just bought an amp and dual 8” subs. Came with all the wiring and everything as well. How would I go about hooking up the rca cables? I know how to run everything else just not sure on how to hook up them up to the radio. Thank you for any help.
You need to tap into the roll bar speaker wires. You can pull the cover off the B pillar directly behind the front passenger seat. There are two twisted pairs you will tap into. You'll need a basic LOC converter.
 
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You need to tap into the roll bar speaker wires. You can pull the cover off the B pillar directly behind the front passenger seat. There are two twisted pairs you will tap into. You'll need a basic LOC converter.
Wow really ok great seems simple enough. Thank you
 

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