Deezus

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What if you just want to add an aftermarket sub and an amplifier to amplify that and just upgrade all of the speakers. Component up front and just a six and a half inch woofer in the sound bar can I just use the stock wiring for the regular speakers and tap into the sub output from the stock 8.4 stereo at an amp and go from there to the new sub?





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gs4jd

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Does anyone happen to know the part number for the inner quarter panel subwoofer housing. I am looking for the housing only so I can install a JL subwoofer in it. I have a sport S without the premium alpine system and figured I can use that to house my new subwoofer and save space. Anyone see any cons to this idea? Or if anyone on here has removed theres and wants to swap panels I would do that.
The alpine one?
 
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What if you just want to add an aftermarket sub and an amplifier to amplify that and just upgrade all of the speakers. Component up front and just a six and a half inch woofer in the sound bar can I just use the stock wiring for the regular speakers and tap into the sub output from the stock 8.4 stereo at an amp and go from there to the new sub?
You can easily add the aftermarket amp and sub. The challenge is that most aftermarket speakers require much more power than what the stock system supplies.

If you have the Alpine system, running components up-front is a challenge because each speaker is receiving a crossed-over, pre-equalized signal. If you're trying to run components, you'd need a way to combine the stock tweeter and woofer signals. You'd be better off bypassing the component's crossover, sending the stock tweeter signal to the new tweeter, and the stock woofer signal to the new woofer. It's a less than optimal option.

I simply can't recommend this path. The recommendation is to add the sub and amp. Then, when you're ready, invest in a PAC, Fix86 or something similar and some decent components.

In other words, take it step by step, and try to avoid doing something that will cost you now, then cost you more later.
 

Deezus

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You can easily add the aftermarket amp and sub. The challenge is that most aftermarket speakers require much more power than what the stock system supplies.

If you have the Alpine system, running components up-front is a challenge because each speaker is receiving a crossed-over, pre-equalized signal. If you're trying to run components, you'd need a way to combine the stock tweeter and woofer signals. You'd be better off bypassing the component's crossover, sending the stock tweeter signal to the new tweeter, and the stock woofer signal to the new woofer. It's a less than optimal option.

I simply can't recommend this path. The recommendation is to add the sub and amp. Then, when you're ready, invest in a PAC, Fix86 or something similar and some decent components.

In other words, take it step by step, and try to avoid doing something that will cost you now, then cost you more later.
If I want to go to 4ohm speakers (Hertz)basically I'm going to have to upgrade the amp and go the route you were talking about a full upgrade to the sound system besides the head unit correct?
 
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If I want to go to 4ohm speakers (Hertz)basically I'm going to have to upgrade the amp and go the route you were talking about a full upgrade to the sound system besides the head unit correct?
That's the definitely the recommended route.

You could simply add speakers, skip the cross-overs and possibly need to add capacitors, though the speakers would need to be of the very high efficiency variety (i.e. very low wattage needs). The stock system can barely handle the cheap stock 4" speakers it comes with, so adding higher end speakers could actually sound worse because of the power needs, lack of proper crossover signals and the stock equalization.
 

Deezus

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That's the definitely the recommended route.

You could simply add speakers, skip the cross-overs and possibly need to add capacitors, though the speakers would need to be of the very high efficiency variety (i.e. very low wattage needs). The stock system can barely handle the cheap stock 4" speakers it comes with, so adding higher end speakers could actually sound worse because of the power needs, lack of proper crossover signals and the stock equalization.
Well that was the original plan I was going to have somebody do it and then I decided I was going to do it myself cuz I did mine in my JK and then I was trying to go cheaper and cheaper and realize there's a certain level that you have to go to to even make it worth it.
My list:
Alpine PDX-V9 JL amp rack
Hertz MPK 165.3- knee panel
Hertz MPX 165.3 roll bar
JL Audio 12tw3 in stock sub location with slight modification
Pac amppro ap4-ch41
Pac aph-ch03-do I need it?
SSV jjt-sa065 for roll bar
Metra jp-1014 for knee
4guage amp wiring
Dose that sound right?
will I need to rewire the speakers to a heavier gauge for this setup that was one of my questions thanks for all your help!
 
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Well that was the original plan I was going to have somebody do it and then I decided I was going to do it myself cuz I did mine in my JK and then I was trying to go cheaper and cheaper and realize there's a certain level that you have to go to to even make it worth it.
My list:
Alpine PDX-V9 JL amp rack
Hertz MPK 165.3- knee panel
Hertz MPX 165.3 roll bar
JL Audio 12tw3 in stock sub location with slight modification
Pac amppro ap4-ch41
Pac aph-ch03-do I need it?
SSV jjt-sa065 for roll bar
Metra jp-1014 for knee
4guage amp wiring
Dose that sound right?
will I need to rewire the speakers to a heavier gauge for this setup that was one of my questions thanks for all your help!
Looks good. You won't need the PAC amh-ch03 if you're using the PAC AmpPro. If you need help with the parts, ping the gentleman I refer to at the end of post #1. Good luck!
 

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All, I've been reading this thread for a while. I have a question about the PAC route. If I go this route, do I need to run speaker wire to each speaker I want to power with my 5ch? Or does the harness handle that for me?;

Looking at the idatalink maestro also, which may be my solution but curious about the PAC route too.

@Sting_NC_USA
 
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Deezus

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Looks good. You won't need the PAC amh-ch03 if you're using the PAC AmpPro. If you need help with the parts, ping the gentleman I refer to at the end of post #1. Good luck!
Will I need to run new speaker wires?
 

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(If you reply to this post - PLEASE do not quote the entire post! It is entirely too long to be repeated over and over. Thx!)
So I finally caved and decided to listen to you Sting :)
I have a JLU with the hard top, alpine comps (R series) in the front and soundbar, the SSV works sub enclosure with an alpine sub and the Pac+Amp combo installed.
I chose to go this route due to the easy and proven solution and I got the AudioControl LC6.1200 amp that I am more than happy with. But, there is always a but, the sound was still a little "boxy". So I decided to put liners on my top, went with Coverking, great product and got me a little improvement of the sound. But (told ya, there is always a but) the boxyness is still not completely gone and I need a little warmth in the mid section, so I decided to go and get a DSP.
You were right @Sting_NC_USA gotta flatten those signals before amplifying to make it sound right. Still debating whether I want to throw away the PAC completely and install a Fix86 or keep it and install something downstream from the PAC and upstream the amp like the Twk88 or the AudioControl DM608. The DM608 could function either like the Fix86 or the Twk88 as it accepts both speaker and line level inputs, besides the TOSLINK) so I am leaning towards that, and I also do love AudioControl as their stuff has been just great (not to mention the BT connectivity option).

Respectfully, some updates to your original post.
In the meantime AudioControl came out with two new Load Generating Devices, the ones you've tried are outdated now as far as I know.
There is a 20ohm (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD20/AudioControl-AC-LGD-20.html?tp=90107) and a 60ohm (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD60/AudioControl-AC-LGD-60.html?tp=90107) set. The latter should do the trick.

Also your link to the resistors does not work, but PAC has a set now for sale https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LR475/PAC-LR475.html

Once I decide which DSP it will be and install it, I'll get back to y'all, but fellas, I'm pretty sure Sting was right :D
 

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Slowly installing 5ch amp, shallow subwoofer, and 6.5 components to my non-alpine 7" setup .

Little tip I wanted to share regarding the driver side speaker pod removal (maybe can update the first page?) - the metal bar that sits under the pod that causes all the grief is only held in by 4 easily accessible bolts, two 10mm and two 8mm. Remove the left most 3 and the bar is able to flex easily out of the way to drop the speaker pod down.
 
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Slowly installing 5ch amp, shallow subwoofer, and 6.5 components to my non-alpine 7" setup .

Little tip I wanted to share regarding the driver side speaker pod removal (maybe can update the first page?) - the metal bar that sits under the pod that causes all the grief is only held in by 4 easily accessible bolts, two 10mm and two 8mm. Remove the left most 3 and the bar is able to flex easily out of the way to drop the speaker pod down.
Thanks, from a Louisiana native (Lafayette)! I'll add that to Post #1.
 

onspeed

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Snapped a few pictures and circled the bolts in question. Some more details - I followed the instructions on page 1 to remove the pods without ripping the entire dash apart, but couldn't figure out how to wiggle it out without loosening the support bar.

Bolt the far left was a 8mm head. I removed the upward facing 7mm screw that's right in front of it to be able to pull the lower edge of the dash out a little to get a socket on the bolt.

The other two bolts are 10mm head. If you follow the bar to the right, there's another 8mm bolt securing it to the center console, but it wasn't necessary to touch that one. Once those three are loosened, the bar has lots of play and the pod easily drops out/in.

This is on a '19, 7" screen without alpine. Other models may be different.

PXL_20210113_014700392.jpg


PXL_20210113_014941218.jpg
 

AusJeepNoob

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Well that was the original plan I was going to have somebody do it and then I decided I was going to do it myself cuz I did mine in my JK and then I was trying to go cheaper and cheaper and realize there's a certain level that you have to go to to even make it worth it.
My list:
Alpine PDX-V9 JL amp rack
Hertz MPK 165.3- knee panel
Hertz MPX 165.3 roll bar
JL Audio 12tw3 in stock sub location with slight modification
Pac amppro ap4-ch41
Pac aph-ch03-do I need it?
SSV jjt-sa065 for roll bar
Metra jp-1014 for knee
4guage amp wiring
Dose that sound right?
will I need to rewire the speakers to a heavier gauge for this setup that was one of my questions thanks for all your help!
The factory box for the Alpine premium system is 16L (0.55cuft) volume which might be a little small for the 12TW3 you're planning. I know the 10TW3 will go into the available space. The Alpine sub is also tiny in comparison to anything that is aftermarket so its driver displacement is going to be a lot less than anything that replaces it.

I'm going with the DD SL710. It is recommended for anything between 0.4 and 0.8 cuft so should be fine especially if I have to space it out a bit. Going to have to make a custom adapter and grill for it but plan on giving it a significant amount of power to really get the bass bumping.

DDsub_pic1.jpg


DDsub_pic2.jpg
 

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