It is not posted online anywhere, because a financing company isn't required to pass along the savings. In the event that you lease, the manufacturer ends up with the tax credit. Commonly, this savings is passed on directly to the lienholder (the lender you choose, as they're the ones actually fronting the cost), and then indirectly further downstream to you. It is common for the manufacturer to approve a lower sales price (i.e., directly reducing the cap cost) to account for this. This isn't specific to any given lender, as they don't actually set the sales price. Your dealer should be able to answer whether you'd get the cap cost reduction on a lease, and the lender simply pays the dealer that amount. If your dealer can't or won't answer this question, I'd seek out a different dealer. The discount should be plainly evident in the lease terms, as long as you're not just fixating on monthly price as the salesmen typically encourage you to do.Is that posted online somewhere? And is Ally the main leasing company for these? I have been waiting to see if they were gonna pass the $7500 along and now that I know, I may end up ordering one.
"Capitalized cost" or "cap cost" is a term specific to leases, though it's basically the same thing as vehicle sales price. It is one of the three key inputs into a lease payment; the other two are APR (more commonly translated into "money factor" for leases) and residual value (often also referred to as "buyout amount" or "purchase option"). All terms are technically negotiable, but cap cost is typically where you'll have the most wiggle room. You will not get this out-the-door when financing, but should expect to see that discount if leasing.Wait is this true? I've only read that this is for next year's tax return so you pay it now and recoup it, if eligible, next year.
But now youre saying a $67,500 4xe will be $60,000 out the door if we finance through Ally bank?
In a round-about way, somebody who is ineligible for the $7500 due to insufficient tax liability could theoretically obtain it anyway by 1) taking a lease with the cap cost reduction, 2) paying it off early, and then 3) buying it out. As a rough estimate, figure all your payments (including interest, you don't get to prepay and skip that), plus all up-front fees, plus buyout amount, plus all licensing fees you'd normally need to pay at end-of-lease to register in your name. It won't be exact but, as long as your lease is somewhat fairly priced, it may very likely be cheaper all-in versus buying it outright without ever getting that credit. It does mean dealing with your dealer and lender twice on the same car though.