4ga cable from battery to trunk through frame? Ground?

[Wheezy]

OK, I've read some threads and found some advice I think makes sense.

I intend to run a 4ga cable from the battery, down, into the frame and back, up out of the frame and into the rear cab via the grommet in the tail light area.

This will power everything I have going on back there, which isn't really much, but is mainly to make sure the ARB Dual compressor in the trunk has sufficient power for the 20-30 minutes or so it takes to fill 40's from 10psi.

Big question in regards to ground, I'd prefer to run a single cable all the way back and ground to something back there.

Any reason not to do this?

Can anybody point out an adequate ground point in the back of the jeep for this kind of amp load?

ALSO: What is the best hole to ENTER (loaded question) on the passenger side frame?

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[dpike]

Why did you choose this as your route as opposed to through the firewall and the cab ?

From what I've previously read there's a ground lug behing the plastics by the 12v power plug.

 

[Wheezy]

10 minutes vs 3 hours is the main reason. Ever needs to be replaced, even quicker.

Thanks for info on the ground lug!!!!

 

[LanceMagnum]

I'd vote for keeping it inside the cab too - I've run 6ga from the battery across the top of the engine bay and into the driver footwell using the hole available on automatics. Then run along the drivers side and up the rear wheel well.

Searching for "Mopar Trailer Light Wiring Harness Install for Jeep Wrangler JL" will find some videos showing how to remove the interior trim. I've kept all the wires inside the grey conduits that run by the seats and rockers.

I've also run wires from the battery to the back using the 'upfitter' grommet on the passenger side. Removing the front right fender and the ESS battery helps getting the wire(s) through the grommet.

You are correct, it won't be a 10 minute job if you go one of the inside routes.

Here's a pic of the fused 6ga across the firewall:

it runs to a Redarc BCDC near the wheel well:

I decided to use the ground by the drivers side rear passenger seat, G915B, only need to remove a small amount of trim to get the carpet out of the way:

 

[dpike]

Then run along the drivers side and up the rear wheel well.

this is the path i'm currently looking at as well to add a dc-dc charger in the boot, i'll probably run a 6ga and a few 10 or 12ga along the same path for future use, so i don't have to go back in. any tips or things to look out for along this route ?

 

[LanceMagnum]

this is the path i'm currently looking at as well to add a dc-dc charger in the boot, i'll probably run a 6ga and a few 10 or 12ga along the same path for future use, so i don't have to go back in. any tips or things to look out for along this route ?

Here's some details from what I recall:

- To run from the battery across the firewall I was unable to use the black conduit that's already there - just could not get it opened up. I ran my cables in their own wire loom and used 'edge biter' cable ties for the best result (I tried some adhesive wire tie blocks but they did not last)

- Taking the time to open up the gray conduits and running my wires alongside the factory wires inside the conduit had the best fit. There's room under the trim for running wires outside as well, if needed. Be sure the conduit snaps closed in all the places otherwise the trim may not fit correctly when you go to put it back.

- There's a spot by the B pillar where the wires run by some wire cable related to the seatbelt function, so route carefully there (I followed the factory wires that veer a couple inches inboard)

- If you use the ground points by the passenger seat take the time orient the lug or ring terminal so it does not interfere with the fitting of the factory connection and also does not interfere with the trim.

- There's a lot of room under the front half of the wheel well carpet to store extra wires and such for future projects.

My first rev of the project (I have a battery in the under floor storage) I ran the wires inside the cargo area. I'm much happier with my current rev where I drilled a hole from the top of the wheel well and routed wires behind the inner wheel well and then used cable glands to enter the under floor storage compartment from underneath. I have a lot going on in the back corner where the hardtop washer/wiper connections are (hatch light, backup camera, compressor wiring) so let me know if you have any questions about running wires back there - I've had that big trim piece off about a dozen times.

 

[donmontalvo]

If you've got CB/GMRS/Ham coax running to the back of your Jeep, and you plan to run a power cable inside, would try to run it as far away from the coax as possible, to avoid noise. Ask me how I know.

 

[Zukoda]

One thing that would worry me about running inside the frame is not knowing if there are any sharp edges the cable would/could be resting/rubbing on... Possibility of a future short would make me want to run the wire where I could visually verify the environment it was run through... Seen a lot of shorts caused by this type of installation.

 

[donmontalvo]

One thing that would worry me about running inside the frame is not knowing if there are any sharp edges the cable would/could be resting/rubbing on... Possibility of a future short would make me want to run the wire where I could visually verify the environment it was run through... Seen a lot of shorts caused by this type of installation.

Yep, might use some strong wire sheathing too.

https://www.amazon.com/wire-sheathing/s?k=wire+sheathing

 

[JimLee]

Yep, might use some strong wire sheathing too.

https://www.amazon.com/wire-sheathing/s?k=wire+sheathing

This stuff is about the same quality that we use on wiring bundles in military aircraft. I've found that alot of the other products on Amazon are very thin and melt at about the same temp as heat shrink, which is no good for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFPXCG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[donmontalvo]

This stuff is about the same quality that we use on wiring bundles in military aircraft. I've found that alot of the other products on Amazon are very thin and melt at about the same temp as heat shrink, which is no good for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFPXCG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Yep the harder it is to cut the better.

 

[WannFly]

OP - did you end up running the wires? i am in the same boat as you. want to make a junction box of sorts at the carbo area. planning on a 4 Gauge wire.

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