40'S on your JL

[OBJLU]

40” Mickey Thompson Baja Boss wrapped around 17” KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks

Could you do a huge favor and measure what these are mounted on the jeep? Trying to see if I’ll still fit in my garage with 40’s. I’m running the KM3 39’s and have about 2.5 inches left. Thanks man! The rig looks awesome

Sponsored

 

[wibornz]

I find it funny when some one says they are running 40s on stock axles, then in the next breath they say, I have changed the axles and had them trussed, changed the ball joint yada yada yada.

Lets break this down what they are calling stock

Add Chromoly shafts about $1000. If you do RCV axles $1400 fro the front $1950 for the back

Dynatrac Ball joints, $630

Regear the axle $1000 per Axle on the low end.

Truss the axle parts and labor most likely will be above $1100 for each axle

So on the low end if you do most of the labor yourself, you will be north of $4000 per axle and you call them a stock axle. Now that is funny. If you pay a shop to do the work you will probably be closer to $6000 per axle.

I say if you want 40s, just but the one ton axle. I run 37s and I am already hating the money that I have in my rear axle. I have to make a decision today, throw another $1500 to $2000 at my Dana 44 or buy a one ton axle.

I have a bad locker now. I have upgraded to Yukon axles, because I twisted a rear axle shaft, I re geared it, I have ripped teeth off the pinion gear, by the time I add an ARB locker I will be $5000 into a "STOCK" axle. Also add the Z-locker bypass into the mix. Fuck.

And time is not on my side.

 

[OBJLU]

I find it funny when some one says they are running 40s on stock axles, then in the next breath they say, I have changed the axles and had them trussed, changed the ball joint yada yada yada.

Lets break this down what they are calling stock

Add Chromoly shafts about $1000. If you do RCV axles $1400 fro the front $1950 for the back

Dynatrac Ball joints, $630

Regear the axle $1000 per Axle on the low end.

Truss the axle parts and labor most likely will be above $1100 for each axle

So on the low end if you do most of the labor yourself, you will be north of $4000 per axle and you call them a stock axle. Now that is funny. If you pay a shop to do the work you will probably be closer to $6000 per axle.

I say if you want 40s, just but the one ton axle. I run 37s and I am already hating the money that I have in my rear axle. I have to make a decision today, throw another $1500 to $2000 at my Dana 44 or buy a one ton axle.

I have a bad locker now. I have upgraded to Yukon axles, because I twisted a rear axle shaft, I re geared it, I have ripped teeth off the pinion gear, by the time I add an ARB locker I will be $5000 into a "STOCK" axle. Also add the Z-locker bypass into the mix. Fuck.

And time is not on my side.

Tons are 20k after you swap out wheels due to different lug pattern, even more if you do hydro assist.

Not including regearing, I think I paid about 3500 including labor, which was for the ball joints and rear truss install, for upgrades to my axles, nothing close to the 12k you’re talking about.

Sounds like you are having a bad time with the 44 though, some of it is driving style too.

 

[Jammer]

Tons are 20k after you swap out wheels due to different lug pattern, even more if you do hydro assist.

Not including regearing, I think I paid about 3500 including labor, which was for the ball joints and rear truss install, for upgrades to my axles, nothing close to the 12k you’re talking about.

Sounds like you are having a bad time with the 44 though, some of it is driving style too.

Tons are 20k after you swap out wheels due to different lug pattern, even more if you do hydro assist.

Not including regearing, I think I paid about 3500 including labor, which was for the ball joints and rear truss install, for upgrades to my axles, nothing close to the 12k you’re talking about.

Sounds like you are having a bad time with the 44 though, some of it is driving style too.

$20k for tons NO THANK YOU. I don't need them that bad my 37s can do just about everything the 40s do because a lot of it is driving and the driver. And I will spend my $20k on something else that can excite me a whole hell of lot more then just going 3 inch's on tires and and the extra weight with it. Hell I could before the chip shortage find me a used older Jeep and fix it it up before I spend my $20k for 3 inch's on tires lol. I know several people that have done it just for looks how sad $20k more for looks and bragging rights. Hey look at me I've got 40s lol How sad !

 

[Will.Batt]

I find it funny when some one says they are running 40s on stock axles, then in the next breath they say, I have changed the axles and had them trussed, changed the ball joint yada yada yada.

Lets break this down what they are calling stock

Add Chromoly shafts about $1000. If you do RCV axles $1400 fro the front $1950 for the back

Dynatrac Ball joints, $630

Regear the axle $1000 per Axle on the low end.

Truss the axle parts and labor most likely will be above $1100 for each axle

So on the low end if you do most of the labor yourself, you will be north of $4000 per axle and you call them a stock axle. Now that is funny. If you pay a shop to do the work you will probably be closer to $6000 per axle.

I say if you want 40s, just but the one ton axle. I run 37s and I am already hating the money that I have in my rear axle. I have to make a decision today, throw another $1500 to $2000 at my Dana 44 or buy a one ton axle.

I have a bad locker now. I have upgraded to Yukon axles, because I twisted a rear axle shaft, I re geared it, I have ripped teeth off the pinion gear, by the time I add an ARB locker I will be $5000 into a "STOCK" axle. Also add the Z-locker bypass into the mix. Fuck.

And time is not on my side.

I will just say that I realize the term "stock" is not accurate, hence my use of quotations and the list of upgrades.

What most people forget, when comparing the cost of building D44s and buying D60s, is building a D44 can be done incrementally over time and the cost can be spread out.

Buying D60s requires the total funds up front.

I will admit that eventually I will upgrade to D60s, but for now I have a pretty capable rig with axels that will support the wheeling I do (with careful line selection and cautious use of the skinny pedal). And when I do upgrade to D60s, my current D44 axels will sell for far more than a true stock D44 to help replenish my bank account. (That is if we dont throw them on my son's XJ with a 3 link kit.)

So, if you have the funds immediately available... Go for it. Buy those won-tons. If not, build what you can and enjoy the shit out of it. I for one, am tired of internet experts telling me what can and cannot be done.

Wheel on my friends. See you on the trails.

 

[wibornz]

I will just say that I realize the term "stock" is not accurate, hence my use of quotations and the list of upgrades.

What most people forget, when comparing the cost of building D44s and buying D60s, is building a D44 can be done incrementally over time and the cost can be spread out.

Buying D60s requires the total funds up front.

I will admit that eventually I will upgrade to D60s, but for now I have a pretty capable rig with axels that will support the wheeling I do (with careful line selection and cautious use of the skinny pedal). And when I do upgrade to D60s, my current D44 axels will sell for far more than a true stock D44 to help replenish my bank account. (That is if we dont throw them on my son's XJ with a 3 link kit.)

So, if you have the funds immediately available... Go for it. Buy those won-tons. If not, build what you can and enjoy the shit out of it. I for one, am tired of internet experts telling me what can and cannot be done.

Wheel on my friends. See on the trails.

I am at the tipping point right now. I need a new locker, the locker is not broke, the magnet housing and gotten hot and is not working. So the axle will not lock. The parts are not going to be available until March or April. That is a problem. I leave for a 11+ month wheeling trip in 3 weeks. I can put an ARB locker in it, don't really want to dump another 2500 in to the Dana 44 because I can't get a part. , or spend the money on a one ton for the back of the Jeep. If I can get a one ton in time...... very unlikely or wheel for months with out a locker and then tear the rear axle apart in a parking lot or at a camp site.......... There is no good option.


I do not want to worry for months about the Jeep not being right before a 20,000 mile trip.

 

[Jammer]

That's another point I want to park my Jeep in my garage and 40s wont allow me to. My other house I had we built it with 9 foot garage doors so I could park my F-350 inside it. I had with 40s but I sold it and got into wheeling Jeeps back in 2013. My house now has regular garage doors and with the lift and 37s it barely fits. Not leaving it out for someone to steal crap off it or all the hail storms we around here. Hell we had 2 this past spring with in 2 months and it totaled most al the cars in my neighborhood with all the roofs also

 

[OBJLU]

I am at the tipping point right now. I need a new locker, the locker is not broke, the magnet housing and gotten hot and is not working. So the axle will not lock. The parts are not going to be available until March or April. That is a problem. I leave for a 11+ month wheeling trip in 3 weeks. I can put an ARB locker in it, don't really want to dump another 2500 in to the Dana 44 because I can't get a part. , or spend the money on a one ton for the back of the Jeep. If I can get a one ton in time...... very unlikely or wheel for months with out a locker and then tear the rear axle apart in a parking lot or at a camp site.......... There is no good option.


I do not want to worry for months about the Jeep not being right before a 20,000 mile trip.

My friend had to fix his locker, he bought a donor axle for 800 from a junkyard and swapped the locker/carrier into his axle and sold the steel for scrap. This is probably the cheapest way to go

 

[Will.Batt]

I am at the tipping point right now. I need a new locker, the locker is not broke, the magnet housing and gotten hot and is not working. So the axle will not lock. The parts are not going to be available until March or April. That is a problem. I leave for a 11+ month wheeling trip in 3 weeks. I can put an ARB locker in it, don't really want to dump another 2500 in to the Dana 44 because I can't get a part. , or spend the money on a one ton for the back of the Jeep. If I can get a one ton in time...... very unlikely or wheel for months with out a locker and then tear the rear axle apart in a parking lot or at a camp site.......... There is no good option.


I do not want to worry for months about the Jeep not being right before a 20,000 mile trip.

Man, thats a rough spot to be in. Im sorry.

I personally would be looking at an Eaton vs an ARB, unless you already have a compressor on board. Best of Luck, whatever you decide.

 

[guarnibl]

You can buy a set of Ultimate Dana 60's for $16,500 shipped from Northridge -- yes they are heavy/low pinion but nonetheless, they're tons. I can sell my stock axles for $4k and be $12,500 difference. Yes, you can argue the 8 lug wheels but I'd be buying beadlocks anyway, so that's not really an added cost. It's a good option.

Some people don't have the ability to front that cost up front, so I understand why people build their axles instead. Does it come with some frustrations sometimes? Yeah.

The pros of the Currie route for me anyway were the custom built to my spec part, brake options, weight, ground clearance, etc. But it's easy to hit $20k with those for sure.

 

[Envy_Jeep]

Just Joined the 40's Club. On "stock" axles. (D44, RCVs front and rear, Reids, Artec Trusses, Dynatrack Ball Joints, ect) Im sure eventually I will upgrade to D60s. And when I do, someone will get some seriously built D44s for their rig.

Great build. Are you running wheel spacers, or is that just the offset of the KMC?

 

[Will.Batt]

No spacers. The wheel offset is -38mm with a backspace of 3.5"

 

[J0E]

You can buy a set of Ultimate Dana 60's for $16,500 shipped from Northridge -- yes they are heavy/low pinion but nonetheless, they're tons.

DSTRAC are cheaper and you get 70's rather than 60. I'm going DSTRAC HP front, LP rear. And they're the size of 60's.

Just Joined the 40's Club. On "stock" axles. (D44, RCVs front and rear, Reids, Artec Trusses, Dynatrack Ball Joints, ect) Im sure eventually I will upgrade to D60s. And when I do, someone will get some seriously built D44s for their rig.

I'm told modified D44's are hard to sell compared to stock.

 

[Will.Batt]

DSTRAC are cheaper and you get 70's rather than 60. I'm going DSTRAC HP front, LP rear. And they're the size of 60's.




I'm told modified D44's are hard to sell compared to stock.

Sounds like you know what you are doing then. Pull the trigger on those Brazilian axels and dont worry about what my upgraded D44 axels will sell for when I finally decide to jump to Currie Extremes. Like I said earlier, either someone will get some nicely built D44s or I will throw them under my son's XJ. Either way, I doubt they will be "hard to sell".

Good luck with your build. Look forward to hearing your real world experience with the DSTRACs.

 

[OBJLU]

Sounds like you know what you are doing then. Pull the trigger on those Brazilian axels and dont worry about what my upgraded D44 axels will sell for when I finally decide to jump to Currie Extremes. Like I said earlier, either someone will get some nicely built D44s or I will throw them under my son's XJ. Either way, I doubt they will be "hard to sell".

Good luck with your build. Look forward to hearing your real world experience with the DSTRACs.

If you sell em as a set they’ll get fast, I had a heck of a time because I was only selling the rear but everyone I know who had a set or a front axle moved it fast. I think you’ll be happy with your upgrades, I know lots of folks running 40’s with beefed up axles and no issues

Sponsored