40'S on your JL

[Will.Batt]

Hey guys, new to jeeps, jeeping. I have a 2021 JLUR. It's currently on 40x13.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MT mounted to 17x9 -44/3.5" backspace Method 106 beadlocks. MetaCloak 3.5" GameChanger lift. Stock D44 axels, RCV 300M front and rear (FAD deleted), 5:13 gearing, Reid Knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints. 4, 1" MetaCloak bump stops in each corner.
I'm having pretty good amount of rubbing on the rear pinch seam, and bumper. Bumper wraps around and line up with lunch seams.
I'm planning on doing the MetaCloak 4.5 inch lift soon. Will I still need to trim? Or go bigger then 4.5", or get a different wheel setup with different back spacing. Add more bump stops.
Sorry for all the questions. Just looking for some help other then go buy 1 tons.

Yes I am aware I should get 1 ton axels. But, I'm interested in running the stock D44's at least another year. I do plan on trussing them asap.

The way the rear axle travels up and to the rear, you will most likely need to trim you rear pinch seams. I trimmed about an 1-1/2 on mine with almost the identical set up. No more rubbing, and I only run 2" of bump stop.

Side note, a lot of people will tell you that you NEED one-tone axles. Ask them what their real world experience is before taking much stock in what they say. Plenty of people are running built 44s with 40s very successfully. Ive been through the Rubicon several times now with 40s on 44s and not had an issue. Is there week a point? yes. Is it the pinion? yes. Pick good lines, dont spin and bounce, and have fun.

Nice Rig.

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[gbr]

Side note, a lot of people will tell you that you NEED one-tone axles. Ask them what their real world experience is before taking much stock in what they say. Plenty of people are running built 44s with 40s very successfully. Ive been through the Rubicon several times now with 40s on 44s and not had an issue. Is there week a point? yes. Is it the pinion? yes. Pick good lines, dont spin and bounce, and have fun.

Nice Rig.

But you have mods, correct? RCV shafts, etc?

 

[21JLUR]

The way the rear axle travels up and to the rear, you will most likely need to trim you rear pinch seams. I trimmed about an 1-1/2 on mine with almost the identical set up. No more rubbing, and I only run 2" of bump stop.

Side note, a lot of people will tell you that you NEED one-tone axles. Ask them what their real world experience is before taking much stock in what they say. Plenty of people are running built 44s with 40s very successfully. Ive been through the Rubicon several times now with 40s on 44s and not had an issue. Is there week a point? yes. Is it the pinion? yes. Pick good lines, dont spin and bounce, and have fun.

Nice Rig.

Thanks for the response. Will I need to cut 1.5" off the entire pinch seam circumpolar or just the rear lower portion?

 

[OBJLU]

Thanks for the response. Will I need to cut 1.5" off the entire pinch seam circumpolar or just the rear lower portion?

Should just be rear lower section that’s where I made my cut too.

 

[OBJLU]

The way the rear axle travels up and to the rear, you will most likely need to trim you rear pinch seams. I trimmed about an 1-1/2 on mine with almost the identical set up. No more rubbing, and I only run 2" of bump stop.

Side note, a lot of people will tell you that you NEED one-tone axles. Ask them what their real world experience is before taking much stock in what they say. Plenty of people are running built 44s with 40s very successfully. Ive been through the Rubicon several times now with 40s on 44s and not had an issue. Is there week a point? yes. Is it the pinion? yes. Pick good lines, dont spin and bounce, and have fun.

Nice Rig.

I agree these axles and even the ring and pinion are a lot more stout than what was in the JK. Of course yes you need to mod you won’t last long on completely stock components but with the right mods 40’s are very doable as long as you done rock bounce or hammers the throttle.

I asked a Dana rep what he though about 5.13’s on 40’s and he said yeah you shouldn’t have a problem just drive smart, it’s not a written guarantee but he could have told me to buy the UD 60’s.

 

[Bleda2002]

I find it funny when some one says they are running 40s on stock axles, then in the next breath they say, I have changed the axles and had them trussed, changed the ball joint yada yada yada.

Lets break this down what they are calling stock

Add Chromoly shafts about $1000. If you do RCV axles $1400 fro the front $1950 for the back

Dynatrac Ball joints, $630

Regear the axle $1000 per Axle on the low end.

Truss the axle parts and labor most likely will be above $1100 for each axle

So on the low end if you do most of the labor yourself, you will be north of $4000 per axle and you call them a stock axle. Now that is funny. If you pay a shop to do the work you will probably be closer to $6000 per axle.

I say if you want 40s, just but the one ton axle. I run 37s and I am already hating the money that I have in my rear axle. I have to make a decision today, throw another $1500 to $2000 at my Dana 44 or buy a one ton axle.

I have a bad locker now. I have upgraded to Yukon axles, because I twisted a rear axle shaft, I re geared it, I have ripped teeth off the pinion gear, by the time I add an ARB locker I will be $5000 into a "STOCK" axle. Also add the Z-locker bypass into the mix. Fuck.

And time is not on my side.

Regeared, trussed and gusseted for 3K total including labor and parts. Will need about 2K more to do reid knuckles, chromoly, and ball joints. 5 - 6K in to stock axles is no where near the 20K that 1 tons cost. 14K savings goes a long way towards other parts and will be plenty strong for all but the most abusive use. I did start with rubicon gladiator axles though so i'm on the heavier duty m210/m220 and have elockers already.

 

[J0E]

Side note, a lot of people will tell you that you NEED one-tone axles. Ask them what their real world experience is before taking much stock in what they say. Plenty of people are running built 44s with 40s very successfully. Ive been through the Rubicon several times now with 40s on 44s and not had an issue. Is there week a point? yes. Is it the pinion? yes. Pick good lines, dont spin and bounce, and have fun.

You're probably fine if you stay off the skinny petal.

Pick good lines, dont spin and bounce, and have fun.

Yes, pick hard lines, but don't bounce. If you stay off the skinny petal, no reason to add a truss. Axle bending/braking has nothing to do with tire size, it's the skinny petal. As @Will.Batt says, several folks run 40's on built 44 without issue, but I suspect they stay off the skinny petal.

 

[J0E]

Regeared, trussed and gusseted for 3K total including labor and parts. Will need about 2K more to do reid knuckles, chromoly, and ball joints. 5 - 6K in to stock axles is no where near the 20K that 1 tons cost. 14K savings goes a long way towards other parts and will be plenty strong for all but the most abusive use. I did start with rubicon gladiator axles though so i'm on the heavier duty m210/m220 and have elockers already.

That's 10K into stock, give you can easily sell your stock D44's for $4K. You can get a set of DSTRAC 70's for $15.5K, and they'll install for free. With the coupon code, $15K. You're still $5K ahead .

 

[Bleda2002]

That's 10K into stock, give you can easily sell your stock D44's for $4K. You can get a set of DSTRAC 70's for $15.5K, and they'll install for free. With the coupon code, $15K. You're still $5K ahead .

The dstrac axles are a great deal at their price for sure. 5k is a much more palatable price than the extra 10k+ of the other options.

 

[21JLUR]

I'm $6500 into stock axles. Probably because I can do all the work myself, basically cost of parts.

 

[OBJLU]

Minus the rear axle swap I’d have been 4500 in parts alone for the front and rear diff such includes gears, rebuild kits, trusses, RCV, Cromo shafts, Reid knuckle, dynatrac ball joints and diff covers.

Since I did some of the work myself I’ll guess 1500 in labor so 6k ish total.

Still alot less than a full on swap.

 

[wibornz]

Regeared, trussed and gusseted for 3K total including labor and parts. Will need about 2K more to do reid knuckles, chromoly, and ball joints. 5 - 6K in to stock axles is no where near the 20K that 1 tons cost. 14K savings goes a long way towards other parts and will be plenty strong for all but the most abusive use. I did start with rubicon gladiator axles though so i'm on the heavier duty m210/m220 and have elockers already.

And I have had three lockers fail in the D44 rear axle. Buying three new axles because you can not buy the locker is expensive too. I want to shoot myself in the head for the amount of money I have put into the D44. I stand by you can wheel 40 on a D44 if you are very easy on it. Very easy on it.

 

[Bleda2002]

And I have had three lockers fail in the D44 rear axle. Buying three new axles because you can not buy the locker is expensive too. I want to shoot myself in the head for the amount of money I have put into the D44. I stand by you can wheel 40 on a D44 if you are very easy on it. Very easy on it.

Can't you buy the elocker for about 1k? Looking online seems they're available, or just go Eaton/arb? That's been my plan was run these til failure and then swap in Eaton's

 

[Hogpup]

Go 4.5 springs and trim 1.5" off the pinch, should be good to go. I've ran this set up 4yrs no issues, wheeled Moab, Sandhollow, Windrock, more times than I count and always run hard lines.

 

[Envy_Jeep]

Some great looking rides on 40's

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