35"s

[longfiredragon]

I didn't find the OP's use case in the thread, can you link it?

Use,case? More ground clearance, if nothing else more peace of mind on the harder trails.

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[longfiredragon]

Tho I'm more overlander than rock-crawler, out here it's often rocky, a lot of granite. I upgraded armor (aluminum belly pan) rather than lift.

Skid plates eventually also.

 

[AcesandEights]

Oh. That's not a use case, but I understand.

 

[2nd 392]

Older guy also fearful of taking out the camera got Toyo AT3 35/12.50/C 59 lbs. The lightest 3peak. Have ordered (back order) forged 8.5” wheels 10 lbs lighter than stock, the combo is 2 lbs lighter than stock. 35’s would not fit with the stock spare carrier so I got featherweight aluminum Teraflex relocation brackets (~$150) Fills the gap well with the stock ~1.5” lift

BTW - the Toyo’s are superior wet, not near the rock magnet, and better ride than the KO2’s they replaced but size could be a factor for ride, also 5 lbs lighter than 315/70/C KO2’s

 

[longfiredragon]

Older guy also fearful of taking out the camera got Toyo AT3 35/12.50/C 59 lbs. The lightest 3peak. Have ordered (back order) forged 8.5” wheels 10 lbs lighter than stock, the combo is 2 lbs lighter than stock. 35’s would not fit with the stock spare carrier so I got featherweight aluminum Teraflex relocation brackets (~$150) Fills the gap well with the stock ~1.5” lift

BTW - the Toyo’s are superior wet, not near the rock magnet, and better ride than the KO2’s they replaced but size could be a factor for ride, also 5 lbs lighter than 315/70/C KO2’s

Thanks for sharing. Beautiful 392. See, to me your jeep looks great on 35"s. And as long as it does everything you need it to, all good.

Plus, you/me, might be able to change a flat or do a tire rotation without killing ourselves.

Thanks for chiming in.

 

[2nd 392]

Thanks for sharing. Beautiful 392. See, to me your jeep looks great on 35"s. And as long as it does everything you need it to, all good.

Plus, you/me, might be able to change a flat or do a tire rotation without killing ourselves.

Thanks for chiming in.

Plus every lb of unsprung weight is worth a good 3 lbs of sprung weight. I don’t intended to use the true beadlock so why have an extra 40 lbs of rotational mass/ unsprung weight. Not to mention the tire shop inconsistency regarding trim rings. But I will keep them in case I change my mind. ?

 

[H2O_Doc]

Yes. Before I purchase anything, I ask myself: What specific current problem am I experiencing that is this intended to solve? If you can't identify one, don't make the purchase.

I don't disagree with your logic at all, but most Jeep owners would have never bought a Jeep if the used it : )

 

[Flip]

I can barley lift my 33"s to do a tire rotation.

This is just one reason I run 33's. I'm riddled with arthritis and I run the trails like Han Solo, alone.

Best of luck to you, enjoy and stay safe out there buddy!

 

[Bill_BCNtoNY]

[…]

So then for me why 35"s?

Because I believe 35"s will do everything I need for the way I use my jeep off road.

I didn't find the OP's use case in the thread, can you link it?

Use,case? More ground clearance, if nothing else more peace of mind on the harder trails.

Oh. That's not a use case, but I understand.

I was actually referring at the above, where the OP said he had thought of what he needed to do offroad and affirming 35s could do it. Not my intento to opine on what he does offroad or whether 35s are right for that.

I just think that’s the right way to go about it ??‍

 

[azwjowner]

I don't disagree with your logic at all, but most Jeep owners would have never bought a Jeep if the used it : )

Maybe it would take us back to the era of the TJ! Before the 4 door Jeeps.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Sometimes this jeep stuff can get confusing. So please chime in and let me know if I don't know what I am talking about or if this makes sense.

I am thinking 35"s. There's a lot said, no do 37"s , 39"s etc. You will wear out parts sooner etc.

One example, a friend bought a 2018 sport. Before he took delivery he had the Mopar 2" lift installed, pro Comp steel wheels and MT Baja 315, 35"s installed. He now has 75K on his jeep and the only part that has ever worn out/been replaced is the track bar. He carries the spare in the stock location with no reinforcement, and no issues. And yes he has done considerable off roading.

I have also read posts on here from jeep people that seem to know a lot more than me, and state that the JL components are much stronger than most people realize. This is not the JK days. Everything is bigger and stronger.

So then for me why 35"s?

Because I believe 35"s will do everything I need for the way I use my jeep off road.

I can use the stock location for the spare. Which upgrading is just more money.

I do as much maintenance as I can myself. My jeep has never been to a shop except for tire installation. This said I am 60 years old, 150 pounds, solid muscle and have worked out all my life. However, I can barley lift my 33"s to do a tire rotation. The spare, before going out on the road I would use my floor jack to lift it up as high as I could then muscle it up without destroying the rear camera.

Being on the road in an RV now I have to get my wife to help put the spare back on. I can do it, but I fear damaging the camera.

35"s I think I could still change a flat on the trail and do my tire rotations.

Of course the look. I am not doing a 3 1/2 or 4 inch lift. I don't need it. So with about a 2 1/2 to 3 inch lift I think 35"s look good. I like a gap between the tire and fender. When you have 37"s or 40"s and they fill up the fender well, I don't like the look.

I guess a part of the confusion and question is that some say you will have to do ball joints, knuckles, tie rod ends U joints, all kinds of parts replacement just to move up to 35"s on a sport.

I have seen and heard different.

What say you all?

Thanks

There's a lot more to off-road suspension than the gap between the tire and fender. A good suspension with a 2 1/2" lift will cost as much as a 3 1/2" lift

Whether you change to quality balljoints, knuckles, stronger axles, etc., is up to you. If you use it lightly and with care, you may not break anything. If I didn't want to tackle high rated rock trails, I'd be on 33s or 34s.

 

[AlgUSF]

Maybe it would take us back to the era of the TJ! Before the 4 door Jeeps.

Or the Jeep Wrangler wouldn't be around anymore.

 

[2nd 392]

This is just one reason I run 33's. I'm riddled with arthritis and I run the trails like Han Solo, alone.

Best of luck to you, enjoy and stay safe out there buddy!

Cheapskate excuse isn’t acceptable. Miss the part about 35:12.50 Toyo’s and forged wheels being Lighter than stock ? ! ?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Just keep in mind that the JLU is over 5000 lbs empty and approaching a 3 ton beast all loaded up with all the added off-road accessories. So, comparing tires sizes vs capabilities from a TJ isn't going to yield the same from these beasts.

 

[TheBirdie72]

Things will wear out faster with larger tires, but it doesn't you'll have to replace everything the next week. 35's will be friendlier to your stock parts than 37's, but if you go with a light weight tire like the KO2 in either size, there shouldn't be much difference.

I lifted and swapped to 35's with ~14k miles on the odometer, now I am ~20k, and It things are just starting to get a little squirrely on me, but I ran my Jeep pretty hard in the rocks with the stock suspension, and was expecting this to happen sooner or later. First step for me was to make check the torque on all the bolts in my suspension/steering. I had done this shortly after lifting, but never hurts to check. Everything was tight. Next, I decided to add a Steer Smarts track bar and sector shaft brace. Massive improvement in steering feel, but I'm concerned it could be hiding other wear, so new ball joints, knuckles, tie rod, drag link, and steering stabilizer are all in my future. I also plan to bump to 37's after I've finished all these upgrades, so i've already upgraded my tire carrier to support that. You should be okay with a lighter 35, but the Mopar tailgate reinforcement would be nice for peace of mind... Take-off's for these usually aren't priced too badly.

As far as power goes, I also have the 2.0T without eTorque and it's a blast to drive. Adding the larger tires didn't make me feel like I lost power, but instead made the Jeep feel a little heavier. It performs great on both city and highway roads, as well as off road with the Rubicon 4.10's. Because you have a higher gear ratio, you may be more inclined to regear, but I would hold off until you know for sure if you want to move to 37's at some point and just do it once.

Here's my Rubicon with the 2.5" Metalcloak Gamechanger. I gained exactly 2.5" in the rear with the backseat in and no other gear installed, and ~3" up front, but I believe this is compensating for the ~3/4 of sag in my stock front springs from installing a winch.

Without Rubicon fenders, you will lose about 1" of gap in the wheel well with the same setup.

Love the Jeep, but eat a salad bro.

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