3.6 longevity solution

[Spank]

I've read a lot of Pentastar threads, I agree there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to rocker arm and cam failures. It almost seems that the manufacturing tolerances or things like heat treatment are inconsistent.

Ultimately it's either poor quality parts, the engine not built correctly, or both.

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[Jeep Junkie]

Ultimately it's either poor quality parts, the engine not built correctly, or both.

Just have to get lucky I guess

 

[Jeep Junkie]

I am mad at Jeep for not putting a cover on my Pentastar, they screw people.

 

[tk1700]

I had a 2021 Sahara built for my wife and went with the I4. What a mistake! Blew a head gasket in less than 15K miles. Just got her Willys and this time went with this V6...Never again with the I4....

It can happen to either engine. I have a 2019 JLU 3.6 and a 2021 JLUR 2.0, the 3.6 blew a head gasket at just over 50k miles. The 2.0 is at 52k miles and going strong.

 

[SoK66]

Went by my dealer yesterday and spoke with the owner who owned every type of Wrangler He told me the problem with the lifters and cams comes down to two things. The oil required is too thin and letting your vehicle idle for extended long intervals. He stated that the oil shears down over time and the oil pump struggles to pump the thinned out oil and also struggles to maintain the required pressure which is needed to have everything lubricated. So his solution was to change the oil at 5,000 miles and bump it to 5w 30 and no prolonged idling. I wonder if the motor's that had issues on this site did any type of prolonged idling.

Not just the 3.6L, one of the biggest core causes of fails in modern engines is the manufacturers’ trend to longer oil change intervals. The thinner oils are one thing, though they are necessary due to the complexity of modern cam & lifter designs and variable cam timing. The other is natural sludging from excessive running hours between changes.

Change your oil & filter at 5,000 miles max and you’ll have a leg up on problems. Just do it!

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Not just the 3.6L, one of the biggest core causes of fails in modern engines is the manufacturers’ trend to longer oil change intervals. The thinner oils are one thing, though they are necessary due to the complexity of modern cam & lifter designs and variable cam timing. The other is natural sludging from excessive running hours between changes.

Change your oil & filter at 5,000 miles max and you’ll have a leg up on problems. Just do it!

Thanks for the heads up but 5000 miles will not work for me. My Jeep chewed my 0w20 into 0w16 after 2000 miles

 

[keeperman13]

I am mad at Jeep for not putting a cover on my Pentastar, they screw people.

Th f'n worst amiright?

 

[Tncdrew]

I am mad at Jeep for not putting a cover on my Pentastar, they screw people.

What, so you can hold more heat around an already hot running engine?
If mine had come with one, I'd have thrown it away.

 

[dsgrey]

Went by my dealer yesterday and spoke with the owner who owned every type of Wrangler He told me the problem with the lifters and cams comes down to two things. The oil required is too thin and letting your vehicle idle for extended long intervals. He stated that the oil shears down over time and the oil pump struggles to pump the thinned out oil and also struggles to maintain the required pressure which is needed to have everything lubricated. So his solution was to change the oil at 5,000 miles and bump it to 5w 30 and no prolonged idling. I wonder if the motor's that had issues on this site did any type of prolonged idling.

I wonder if that's his thoughts for any engine. I've always read/been told startups are hard but haven't really heard anyone saying excessive idling is an issue. I only bring this up due to driving the wife's non-Jeep hybrid. On a cold start and when it's cold (using the heater), the engine will start and idle to warm up/produce heat. I can drive 10 or more minutes in that mode where it's using the hybrid battery and only the engine at idle speed so the rpms never increase thus lower oil pressure in theory. I assume all or most other hybrids are similar (electric a/c but use the cooling system to generate heat) and are "excessively" idling many times on cold starts in the winter until the hybrid battery gets low.

 

[CarbonSteel]

This is actually almost completely wrong. Chrysler has one of the strictest specs in oil. Specs for the 1.4T for example where only able to be completed by I believe 2 brands upon release. A large portion of this is the oils detergent ability

Which Chrysler spec? Certainly not MS-6395, it is a big fat nothing burger. Dexos 1 Generation 3 is likely the toughest US specification. Else, all European specifications blow US specs away.

Read it for yourself - https://jeepoffroadadventures.com/wp/?page_id=801

 

[CarbonSteel]

The problem with thicker oil in especially colder climates is, on startup, the oil holds the roller rockers from rotating and begins to put flat spots on the rollers.

That is why you have to choose the correct winter rating which is what the W stands for in the xW-xx designation and not Weight as commonly misunderstood/misstated.

Run 0W-xx oil in cold climates and you will be fine.

 

[dabolay]

Went by my dealer yesterday and spoke with the owner who owned every type of Wrangler He told me the problem with the lifters and cams comes down to two things. The oil required is too thin and letting your vehicle idle for extended long intervals. He stated that the oil shears down over time and the oil pump struggles to pump the thinned out oil and also struggles to maintain the required pressure which is needed to have everything lubricated. So his solution was to change the oil at 5,000 miles and bump it to 5w 30 and no prolonged idling. I wonder if the motor's that had issues on this site did any type of prolonged idling.

Before you decide to "bump" your oil, let me share with you what my Jeep dealership told me about the new JL that I purchased this year. Use the recommended weight 0W-20 and an MS-6395 certified product. The Jeep dealership service department told me that when Jeeps leave Toledo they are filled with Pennzoil oil products.

The service department also told me to use BG P/N 109 and BG P/N 115 products when doing an oil change. Also use the genuine MOPAR oil cartridge.

Hope this helps.

 

[Tncdrew]

Before you decide to "bump" your oil, let me share with you what my Jeep dealership told me about the new JL that I purchased this year. Use the recommended weight 0W-20 and an MS-6395 certified product. The Jeep dealership service department told me that when Jeeps leave Toledo they are filled with Pennzoil oil products.

The service department also told me to use BG P/N 109 and BG P/N 115 products when doing an oil change. Also use the genuine MOPAR oil cartridge.

Hope this helps.

Funny....
Right out of the Jeep Owners Manual...
Which just reminds me that a lot of dealerships are kinda like assholes... everyone has one.

 

[Pig-Pen]

I am mad at Jeep for not putting a cover on my Pentastar, they screw people.

 

[Pape]

Before you decide to "bump" your oil, let me share with you what my Jeep dealership told me about the new JL that I purchased this year. Use the recommended weight 0W-20 and an MS-6395 certified product. The Jeep dealership service department told me that when Jeeps leave Toledo they are filled with Pennzoil oil products.

The service department also told me to use BG P/N 109 and BG P/N 115 products when doing an oil change. Also use the genuine MOPAR oil cartridge.

Hope this helps.

This is what I get if I ask the dealer to provide me with the OIl for me engine

The most interesting portion in all this is the dealer oil is less expensive than the brick and mortar around here.

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