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2024 ASFIR 4X4 Engine Skid Plate Install

Ratbert

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I'd be a little nervous about using bare aluminum without a UHMW layer. Bare aluminum will grab and dent fairly easily. I'm thinking you'll be ok as long as you keep off the more extreme trails.

At least it won't slide like UHMW tends to do.
 

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I'd be a little nervous about using bare aluminum without a UHMW layer. Bare aluminum will grab and dent fairly easily. I'm thinking you'll be ok as long as you keep off the more extreme trails.

At least it won't slide like UHMW tends to do.
It's pretty heavy gauge so not much issue with denting. That being said, the design puts a weld at a high-impact, high-stress point (you can see it cracked in the photo). I've done a bunch of wheeling since this photo was taken and it's a lot more beaten up now. It's slowly crushing the exhaust cross-pipe so I'll be replacing it at some point.

Jeep Wrangler JL 2024 ASFIR 4X4 Engine Skid Plate Install IMG_4374 (2)
 

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I'd be a little nervous about using bare aluminum without a UHMW layer. Bare aluminum will grab and dent fairly easily. I'm thinking you'll be ok as long as you keep off the more extreme trails.

At least it won't slide like UHMW tends to do.
It's less the denting and more the grabbing that makes aluminum a pain. 1/4" 5052 aluminum (which is what most of the aluminum skids are for the JL) is thick enough and (kinda) hard enough that it's not immediate dent city and more a slow deformation thing much like steel, just on an accelerated timeline vs steel, as @Craigger demonstrates. Aluminum skids are definitely a wear item with a shorter service life than steel skids (which are also a wear item). Artec's 6061 skids are better in terms of deformation resistance (5052 isn't super deformation prone, but easier to deform than steel), but also suffer from grabbiness. That grabbiness just makes it hard to get over stuff when you make contact.

That said, aluminum is great if you either run a harder alloy (those Artec 6061 for instance) or accept that it's going to be replaced more often than a steel skid. The weight savings can make a big difference for parts longevity (lighter vehicles are easier on parts) and for getting the most out of softer suspensions - for instance, my springs are soft and if I drop my ~110-120 lb spare, I gain a half inch of extra clearance at the frame. Dropping that same weight transitioning from steel to aluminum skids would gain me - likely - that same clearance, which could be important for some folks.

The UHMW angle is interesting though - you're still rocking 5052 (to my knowledge) underneath, but gaining the slipperiness. Though the UHMW also eats into clearance - adding extra thickness on top of the thickness of the skid (I think total it's like a 3/4" thick skid system?).

Trade offs all around for sure, but overall aluminum isn't all that delicate. Can be beat on decently, just going to replace it sooner, but lightness may be worth it.
 

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The UHMW angle is interesting though - you're still rocking 5052 (to my knowledge) underneath, but gaining the slipperiness. Though the UHMW also eats into clearance - adding extra thickness on top of the thickness of the skid (I think total it's like a 3/4" thick skid system?).

Trade offs all around for sure, but overall aluminum isn't all that delicate. Can be beat on decently, just going to replace it sooner, but lightness may be worth it.
With mine (NVM on an EcoDiesel) you supposedly gain 1/2" in clearance. UHMW takes about 1/4", so it's basically a wash.
 

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With mine (NVM on an EcoDiesel) you supposedly gain 1/2" in clearance. UHMW takes about 1/4", so it's basically a wash.
According to NVM it's a 3/8" additional thickness on top of the 5052. More important, IMO, is the added weight though. Trading weight and a bit of clearance for being slippery. All skid systems are trade offs one way or another.
 

Ratbert

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According to NVM it's a 3/8" additional thickness on top of the 5052. More important, IMO, is the added weight though. Trading weight and a bit of clearance for being slippery. All skid systems are trade offs one way or another.
Yeah, I thought it was closer to 1/2", but when I measured it sure looked like 1/4. I guess I was off or measuring in the wrong area.
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