2019 vs 2020 (engine/interior/steering comparison)

[Dkretden]

Would think it would be a good idea and normal to have a “subject to” clause in the sales agreement in those circumstances.

I don’t know what the contract says as I didn’t order one. I do believe however that a buyer of an ordered vehicle has the right to reasonable inspection and to me that would include a test drive —- local streets and freeways at speed.

some folks say that it took a while for steering issues to materialize. Others say “it happened on the way home from the dealer.” I struggle with the latter. How could this be? Either the buyer didn’t test drive it at all or they didn’t notice it or they didn’t bother to get on the freeway. None of those point to a thorough pre-purchase inspection process. While it is true that it is impossible to test drive a vehicle in all situations (can’t test it in rainy conditions on the freeway on sunny days for instance), it does seem to me that a 5 mile jaunt on the interstate and city streets would prove telling for a focused buyer.

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[four low]

I have a 2018 with the 2.0, E-Torque, and don't find it to be buzzy or loud at all. Could yours have had loose exhaust components, heat shields? Beauty is in the Ear of the Beholder...

 

[BRuby]

I do believe however that a buyer of an ordered vehicle has the right to reasonable inspection and to me that would include a test drive —- local streets and freeways at speed.

Either the buyer didn’t test drive it at all or they didn’t notice it or they didn’t bother to get on the freeway. None of those point to a thorough pre-purchase inspection process. While it is true that it is impossible to test drive a vehicle in all situations (can’t test it in rainy conditions on the freeway on sunny days for instance), it does seem to me that a 5 mile jaunt on the interstate and city streets would prove telling for a focused buyer.

Yep sounds reasonable. Anything that was awry would prevent me from signing off. Once you pay and transfer ownership that item is yours.

 

[rallydefault]

I would really love the opportunity to drive one of these "so dangerous women can't drive it" Jeeps to compare it to mine. Not directed at the OP but I'll bet one persons "sloppy steering" is another persons "seems fine to me". Not in all cases of course.

Yea, just like you said, nothing against OP or others claiming this, but I would love to compare. I have an '18 Sport S, definitely in first batch of builds (late '17 I think? can't bother to check the car now lol), and haven't had any steering issues. When I first drove it, I thought, "this steers like a truck." I learned how to drive on my dad's Yukon back in the day, so I don't know.

I even swapped Rubi suspension onto mine this summer and everything still feels great. Would be really interesting to feel what people are talking about.

 

[D60]

I have no research to back this up so it's just a thought ok - just wondering if the Rubicon has more steering issues due to it's special suspension that isn't on the Sport S (that I have). I had some steering issues at first, felt like it was always needing to be corrected than you over-correct, lather-rinse-repeat. I checked and dropped the tires down from 47 psi to 34 and it was amazingly better. If I was in your shoes, I'd probably do the Synergy track bar and bracket thing plus a Fox steering stabilizer. Good luck and I hope you get it fixed right.

There is zero reason to think an expensive aftermarket panhard or steering box brace is going to fix this, esp on a stock rig.

A stabilizer... eh might help some.

Wandering or dead spots is likely play in the box itself or FCA's weird electric-over variable assist.

My '19 Rubi is still very tight and responsive, even with 38's and lifted. I've done nothing to the stock steering, but I guess the track bar is technically MC now, although stock bar and stock Rubi tires were equally great.

I hope no one is sending Synergy's kids to Yale like this - you'd just be putting a very expensive band-aid on a gaping wound that needs surgery. The aftermarket stuff has its place, but for the RIGHT reasons and this ain't it...

 

[aldo98229]

Before buying I test drove 2018, 2019 and 2020 JLs, with the 4-cyl and the V6, and I agree with the OP in all his observations. That’s why I ended buying a leftover 2018 Sahara V6 in Nov. 2019.

I will add, though, that the wandering steering may or may not be an issue on your JL, regardless of model year. It is a total crap shoot.

Luckily, the steering on my Sahara is not too bad. But considering the number of owners bringing their JL in for this problem, it is baffling that FCA hasn’t fixed the issue by now.

 

[blnewt]

@TowDawg
Add the slightly longer Mopar LCAs, best $70 (if you do the install) you can spend on your JL, will get that caster in the 6 degree range (which it SHOULD have been from the factory) and your Jeep will track SO much better!

 

[Punkindave]

I had a 2018 JLUR that had wandering steering and while it wasn't dangerous, it was a chore to drive on the highway. I noticed it right away on the test drive and I assumed it was "a Jeep thing" to drive like an old 60's truck with a bad steering box.
The replacement was a 2019 JLUR that now has 20k on it without any issues.

The wife just got a 2020 JLUR and it also has no steering issues. I guess it's the luck of the draw.
My 2019 iTorque has more off the line grunt than the 2.0l Turbo, but it's not a huge difference.

I notice on the WIfe's Falkens are a bit noisier than the BFGs but only at very low speeds.

 

[TowDawg]

@TowDawg
Add the slightly longer Mopar LCAs, best $70 (if you do the install) you can spend on your JL, will get that caster in the 6 degree range (which it SHOULD have been from the factory) and your Jeep will track SO much better!

Interesting. Did you have to have it re-aligned after swapping them out?
For $70 and little bit of time, I might have to give them a shot.

I get a new one every 9-12 months as "program" car, so I don't actually own any of them, therefore don't want to put a bunch of money in them, but if $70 will make my time with the car better, and more importantly avoid taking it to my local dealership, I'll try them and then just switch them back when I turn this one in next year and put them on the 2021 if they still haven't fixed the issue by then.

 

[blnewt]

Interesting. Did you have to have it re-aligned after swapping them out?
For $70 and little bit of time, I might have to give them a shot.

I get a new one every 9-12 months as "program" car, so I don't actually own any of them, therefore don't want to put a bunch of money in them, but if $70 will make my time with the car better, and more importantly avoid taking it to my local dealership, I'll try them and then just switch them back when I turn this one in next year and put them on the 2021 if they still haven't fixed the issue by then.

No fresh alignment needed, here's a little install post I made. FWIW the Rubicons w/ the extra 1.5-2" of lift have a lower caster (since ALL JLs use the same control arms and other suspension parts, only the springs & shocks are different). The Rubicons tend to be in the 4 degree range stock, whereas the Sports & Saharas are in the high 5 range. The JLs caster "sweet spot" is 6 give or take a couple tenths. The LCA part #s are in the link too
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/mopar-lca-swap.22474/page-14#post-919284

 

[melman8r]

I have a 2020 JLR on order, I have test driven 3 2019 JLRs in trying to decide if I wanted auto or manual transmission. I like the auto better, but on my 3rd and final test drive, unlike the first two, I couldn't keep that Rubicon on the road. It squirreled all over the place, I don't buy it's a "Jeep thing", the first two had no issues. Poor design, inferior parts supply or just plain old quality control issues, who knows? It is baffling to me that FCA cannot fix this issue once and for all. I hope to heck my 2020 doesn't turn out of the factory as a "wanderer"...

 

[TowDawg]

No fresh alignment needed, here's a little install post I made. FWIW the Rubicons w/ the extra 1.5-2" of lift have a lower caster (since ALL JLs use the same control arms and other suspension parts, only the springs & shocks are different). The Rubicons tend to be in the 4 degree range stock, whereas the Sports & Saharas are in the high 5 range. The JLs caster "sweet spot" is 6 give or take a couple tenths. The LCA part #s are in the link too
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/mopar-lca-swap.22474/page-14#post-919284

So 13/16 socket and torque the new ones to 190. Got it.
My only question is regarding having the suspension loaded or not.
Did you just drive up on the ramps, but leave the tires on the ramps? (Not jacking up the front end to get the tires off the ground?)
Just trying to determine if I'm better to use my 4-post drive-on and leave it loaded, or my 2-post frame lift and take the tires off the ground?

 

[blnewt]

So 13/16 socket and torque the new ones to 190. Got it.
My only question is regarding having the suspension loaded or not.
Did you just drive up on the ramps, but leave the tires on the ramps? (Not jacking up the front end to get the tires off the ground?)
Just trying to determine if I'm better to use my 4-post drive-on and leave it loaded, or my 2-post frame lift and take the tires off the ground?

Yeah, left the tires on, just used that extra clearance that the ramps provide to get extra room to work that breaker bar & that one bolt that I needed the cheat pipe. Not sure if I was lucky or the ramps loaded up the suspension a bit but the new LCAs just slipped right in w/ no prying or anything needed.

 

[TowDawg]

Yeah, left the tires on, just used that extra clearance that the ramps provide to get extra room to work that breaker bar & that one bolt that I needed the cheat pipe. Not sure if I was lucky or the ramps loaded up the suspension a bit but the new LCAs just slipped right in w/ no prying or anything needed.

Thank you. Ordered the LCA's this morning.

 

[blnewt]

Thank you. Ordered the LCA's this morning.

Look forward to your impressions once you get them on.

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