Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps

[Brian0128]

I talked to him today he claims you can get it without the logo but there are 8 holes that need to be covered. I dont see any on yours unless you covered them.

I did not cover any holes. I asked them not to drill the top plate. Maybe they aren't doing any more custom work?

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[RamenLife]

Great Info. More part numbers would be great for those that replaced.
like your description. ALLData shows these are very easy to replace. Without removing the body. I need to replace one of the rears. Attached is the ALLDATA instructions

Thank you for the ALLDATA. As I see from ALLDATA. Can we access the front bolts just removing front bumper and grill? I have passenger front bolt broken. And dealership have been holding my Jeep for 2 weeks for getting warranty approval or denial. Still no clue.

 

[roaniecowpony]

My RH step sliders came today. Decided to install them right away. I used a torch to get the body mounts loose. I had use enough heat that I smoked and melted the front mount on the first side. The middle and aft are more isolated from the bolt head and could take more heat. I'll have to replace the front mount later. The second side I made a little heat shield out of some sheet metal with a hole the size of the bolt head flange. That shielded the rubber mount.

One bit of a peeve I had with the RH rails, the "studs" that go thru the pinch weld flange are simply welded on bolts. No problem with that. The first rail went on fine. The second wouldn't go. I looked it over and found a couple of them were welded on crooked. I had to beat the hell out them to bend them so they'd go thru the holes in the pinch weld flange.

 

[twisty]

My RH step sliders came today. Decided to install them right away. I used a torch to get the body mounts loose. I had use enough heat that I smoked and melted the front mount on the first side. The middle and aft are more isolated from the bolt head and could take more heat. I'll have to replace the front mount later. The second side I made a little heat shield out of some sheet metal with a hole the size of the bolt head flange. That shielded the rubber mount.

One bit of a peeve I had with the RH rails, the "studs" that go thru the pinch weld flange are simply welded on bolts. No problem with that. The first rail went on fine. The second wouldn't go. I looked it over and found a couple of them were welded on crooked. I had to beat the hell out them to bend them so they'd go thru the holes in the pinch weld flange.

I started on mine today too. What a freaking nightmare. lol That front bolt is both nerve racking and a PITA. I used a torch too using the timing method I spoke of before. Mine didnt melt but sometimes it smelled like it did.

I had to elongate my pinch seam holes and got everything bolted up loose (or so I thought) and started cinching things down and the front bolt felt like it started and apparently didnt. Closer inspection shows the body mount hole doesnt line up enough to allow it to thread. So off it came again and need to open up that body mount hole.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I used my IR thermometer. One minute with a torch then 2 minute wait, then another 30-40 seconds with the torch, wait a minute, torch again for 30-40 seconds, got the head pretty hot, maybe 300f ish. It made a huge difference in letting it turn. I tried one cold. It would move, but it was tighter than I was comfortable with. Even though the head had cooled to around 200f, the loctite was softened enough to loosen.

On a couple bolts, I thought the nut felt like it had broken loose in the body. I couldn't get the bolt out and it was nearly all the way out. But the nut was just spinning in there. I finally, put a pry bar under the washer and used the air impact to spin it out. When I reinstalled I used the air impact once the thread was started.

 

[twisty]

Closing the loop.

Mechanic had to remove driver side seat.
Pull up carpet and some trim.
Drilled hole DOWN from inside thru body to where body bolt was.
Use simple extractor to unscrew bolt stuck in the hole.
Cover body hole with epoxy to prevent water coming back in.
Put carpet, trim and seat back.

Said it took less than an hour.

Then installed the driver side rock slider for me. Checked all torque values needed - 80lbs

Washed and vacuumed the Jeep.

All within what they quoted me. Plus a free loaner for 24 hrs.

Phew.

So 80 foot pounds of torque? My search yeilded 92lbs??

 

[twisty]

Got is all done. Finally.

My method (YMMV):
Plumbers torch is the way to go. One full minute on the front ones. Wait about a minute, torch again for 15-20 seconds.
I used a 1/2 socket with extension, it's a mother but I wanted more control so I didnt break the bolt.
Loosen a few arcs, then tighten half as many. Torch 12 seconds
Loosen a few more arcs then the spot you stopped at, tighten half as many, Torch 12 seconds
Now loosen until it gets tight or sometimes makes a creaking noise STOP. TIghten again half as many, torch 12 seconds
Continue same method. As you progress the it will take a while before it tightens up.

I used the torch on the other 4 bolts just to loosen them but they cam out easily. Except for the capture washer, you have to pry them out with a large closed end wrench in a jerking motion. LiteBrite has a video on it using a screw driver, my method was better.

Putting them in is a PITA, but sometimes you get lucky. I ended up shining a flashlight in there and moving the capture ring out of the way. Real easy after that.

I torqued at 85, book says 92. Funny no one chimed in on this, guessin must just tighten them not knowing. I will put mine in spec once I get a better torque wrench. Also I didnt loctite them in but instead used antiseize. Not sure how smart that is but I did it on my old CJ and was fine.

One reason mine took so long is I also applied some adhesive protection where your foot MIGHT hit the body when using the step. Went on real nice but still time consuming. Looks pretty good too.

Hope this helps someone. The job still sucked but the TORCH is the way to go. YMMV

 

[530->408jeepney]

Just installed my @ACE Engineering sliders with no issue. Looks great and two tips: heat and time. Front bolts are the only ones that have the red loctite the other four no issues.

 

[olmectech]

Add me to the list of broken bolts. Even heated them with heat gun. Three out one broken. If I had to do this again I would have dealer remove bolts and put back in with no loctite before attempting.

 

[Dkretden]

Question:

There are two smaller bolts on each side of the body bolt. The LOD rails DO NOT require you to touch the body bolt. But they DO require you to take the nuts off those smaller bolts and install on them.

Now the question: are these two smaller bolts/nuts also on with loctite? Has anyone had a problem taking them off? Any broken ones?

 

[ExitLeft]

Question:

There are two smaller bolts on each side of the body bolt. The LOD rails DO NOT require you to touch the body bolt. But they DO require you to take the nuts off those smaller bolts and install on them.

Now the question: are these two smaller bolts/nuts also on with loctite? Has anyone had a problem taking them off? Any broken ones?

No, those smaller bolts just spin off without issue.

 

[twisty]

Add me to the list of broken bolts. Even heated them with heat gun. Three out one broken. If I had to do this again I would have dealer remove bolts and put back in with no loctite before attempting.

Sorry to hear that. As stated I got mine out fine but it was not fun at all. If I had a do over I would probably find a off road shop I trusted and with experience on this issue to do it. Of course now that it's done it's just a bad memory. lol

 

[oceanblue2019]

Question:

There are two smaller bolts on each side of the body bolt. The LOD rails DO NOT require you to touch the body bolt. But they DO require you to take the nuts off those smaller bolts and install on them.

Now the question: are these two smaller bolts/nuts also on with loctite? Has anyone had a problem taking them off? Any broken ones?

No issues, they come off easy. Just don't over-torque on re-install as they will snap off.... one such report on this forum. I hand tightened those and didn't use a power impact.

 

[Dkretden]

No issues, they come off easy. Just don't over-torque on re-install as they will snap off.... one such report on this forum. I hand tightened those and didn't use a power impact.

Thank you. And thank you @ExitLeft ..... I will hand tighten. Any idea what these bolts should be torqued to??

 

[olmectech]

Sorry to hear that. As stated I got mine out fine but it was not fun at all. If I had a do over I would probably find a off road shop I trusted and with experience on this issue to do it. Of course now that it's done it's just a bad memory. lol

What pisses me off the most is the companies selling these products need to warn consumers of the potential risk when touching these body mount bolts. But no, instead they have a video of a girl with pink fingernail polish removing them.

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