What will you be doing differently from the maintenance schedule?

[DanW]

I’m contemplating early oil change (Pennzoil platinum ultra or whatever). Almost 1000KMs on her so maybe this week.

Anyone else doing early oil changes

Yeah, mine will be between 2,000 and 2500 miles, so it will be just a little early. Normally, I'd do 3,000 for the first change. My second change will probably be 3,000, then the third and onward 5,000 to 6,000. I'll be sending samples in for analysis for the first 4 or so oil changes, too, just out of curiosity.

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[BillyHW]

Yeah, mine will be between 2,000 and 2500 miles, so it will be just a little early. Normally, I'd do 3,000 for the first change. My second change will probably be 3,000, then the third and onward 5,000 to 6,000. I'll be sending samples in for analysis for the first 4 or so oil changes, too, just out of curiosity.

Please post your sample tests later.

 

[DanW]

Please post your sample tests later.

I sure will!

 

[MikeM1968]

Learning how to do most costly maintenance myself on my current car, motorcycle and recently my wife’s “new to her” 2012 Jeep Liberty over the years I’ve been known to just change plugs maybe every year or two. Why? Why not

When I bought my current Dodge Caliber wagon 11 years ago, I looked over the maintenance schedule- even took it to the dealership for its first scheduled maintenance. I still remember the term “throttle body “ and they wanted a small fortune for ball joints, struts and an alignment.

I mean the throttle body is a part- not a procedure. Looked it up and as I figured, it’s kinda a BS “planned maintenance” item. I’ve never had to service the throttle body in 11 years, although it might need a good cleaning by now. Some things I’m pretty sure are designed more to market your dealerships service center than services actually required.

Long story- short - I bought the other parts needed ( struts, control arms with ball joints- outer tie rods) and found a mechanic to do it for MUCH less. Since then, I’ve learned a few things and DIY’ed most of the big stuff (short of new tires and a few oil changes). It’s been helpful having the free pdf genuine Mopar service manual too Step by step procedure for everything.

 

[BillyHW]

Learning how to do most costly maintenance myself on my current car, motorcycle and recently my wife’s “new to her” 2012 Jeep Liberty over the years I’ve been known to just change plugs maybe every year or two. Why? Why not

When I bought my current Dodge Caliber wagon 11 years ago, I looked over the maintenance schedule- even took it to the dealership for its first scheduled maintenance. I still remember the term “throttle body “ and they wanted a small fortune for ball joints, struts and an alignment.

I mean the throttle body is a part- not a procedure. Looked it up and as I figured, it’s kinda a BS “planned maintenance” item. I’ve never had to service the throttle body in 11 years, although it might need a good cleaning by now. Some things I’m pretty sure are designed more to market your dealerships service center than services actually required.

Long story- short - I bought the other parts needed ( struts, control arms with ball joints- outer tie rods) and found a mechanic to do it for MUCH less. Since then, I’ve learned a few things and DIY’ed most of the big stuff (short of new tires and a few oil changes). It’s been helpful having the free pdf genuine Mopar service manual too Step by step procedure for everything.

What manual are you talking about?

 

[Tech Tim]

For oil testing, I saw these cool little buggers at the SEMA show this past fall. Played with it there and added it to my list of tools to buy this year.

 

[BillyHW]

For oil testing, I saw these cool little buggers at the SEMA show this past fall. Played with it there and added it to my list of tools to buy this year.

I wonder on what principle this device works.

 

[Tech Tim]

I wonder on what principle this device works.

From their website:

Physics and Chemistry

Lubricheck analyzes a physical property inherent in every tangible object in the universe. It is called the "dielectric" or "permittivity" property of a molecular structure. Lubricheck also measures the high impedance (resistivity) of the oil sample for high carbon content, and metals.

The combination of these two physics principles allows for an accurate measurement of the quality of engine oil. The Lubricheck combines the measurement data for acidity, metal particulate level, carbon level and foreign liquids (except fuel) into one, easy to understand rating of your oil condition.

 

[JEEPJL]

The posted manual has the following recommended maintenance schedule. (I've attached a PDF with the relevant pages.)

Will you be doing anything differently from this schedule?

I've noticed that there isn't anything at all about changing the 8-Speed Auto transmission fluid. And apparently it's a real pain to change and costs a fortune also. Supposedly it's lifetime sealed, but "lifetime" could just mean "while still under warranty".

Then there are some who say you should never change the transmission fluid because all the ground up grit keeps the clutch packs from slipping in an older tranny.

Maybe it's better to just let the tranny run until it dies and then replace it with a brand new one?

I will probably change the filters once a year every spring, because they are cheap and easy to replace. I may also put a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner in the gas tank every spring.

I will also probably do at least 6 month oil changes instead of the 12 month now recommended.

Does anyone know if the EVIC keeps track of engine run/idle time since the last oil change reset? They say not to go over 350 hours but how do you keep track of that?

Ive got a 2006 Nissan Frontier with sealed Transmission and have never changed it out . ( 206,000 mi ) and still pulling my boat and trailers

 

[BillyHW]

Hey is there anything else on the Jeep that needs to be lubricated or greased or serviced that isn't mentioned in the manual?

I'm thinking about U-joints and CV-joints, or are these all sealed and unserviceable these days? Do you need to do anything to the brakes?

Is there anything else to do that I might not know about?

 

[mgroeger]

Will do what I always do initially, do first conventional oil + filter change around 500-1,000KMs to get rid of any residual engine mfr debris , then do another at the normal interval of additional ~6,000-8,000KMs when the computer says at that time switching to full synthetic for life. First two rounds with conventional oil ‘til 7-9,000KM is to allow for gaskets/seals and everything to setup properly etc (supposedly no longer required, especially with so many engines shipping with synthetic, but might as well break in with conventional oil), and then switch to full synthetic oil for remainder of life, especially in preparation of winter, so change to synthetic might happen earlier if November arrives before 9,000KMs.

Also have dealer switch to high flow K&N washable air filter (keep paper filter for any forseen use with heavy exposure to silica which may be an issue for K&N [still a lot of debate about that]).

Other than that, likely going to pretty much stick with the schedule.
Not going to concern myself much with the transmission while under warranty (as mentioned Liftetime is actually 120,000 Miles or about 200,000KMs in the maintenance schedule), and then after that will decide based on service reports, etc.

I see you have the same mentality I do and that is an early oil change. I did mine at 500 miles and will do again at 1500 then probably every 5k.
You mention using regular dino oil (or someone mentioned dino oil) for the seals and gaskets to seat properly. The only oil available in 0w-20 is blend or full synthetic. Does that kind of shoot the whole conventional oil for break-in in the foot? I converted right away to 0w-20 Pennzoil Platinum at 500, should I go do a blend at the 1500 mile change?
Could you help me understand the whole seal and gasket seating with conventional oil and why synthetic won't work?

 

[BillyHW]

I see you have the same mentality I do and that is an early oil change. I did mine at 500 miles and will do again at 1500 then probably every 5k.
You mention using regular dino oil (or someone mentioned dino oil) for the seals and gaskets to seat properly. The only oil available in 0w-20 is blend or full synthetic. Does that kind of shoot the whole conventional oil for break-in in the foot? I converted right away to 0w-20 Pennzoil Platinum at 500, should I go do a blend at the 1500 mile change?
Could you help me understand the whole seal and gasket seating with conventional oil and why synthetic won't work?

Yeah, I'm wondering if that "use conventional at first" might just be an old wive's tale, but I don't know for certain.

 

[DanW]

I see you have the same mentality I do and that is an early oil change. I did mine at 500 miles and will do again at 1500 then probably every 5k.
You mention using regular dino oil (or someone mentioned dino oil) for the seals and gaskets to seat properly. The only oil available in 0w-20 is blend or full synthetic. Does that kind of shoot the whole conventional oil for break-in in the foot? I converted right away to 0w-20 Pennzoil Platinum at 500, should I go do a blend at the 1500 mile change?
Could you help me understand the whole seal and gasket seating with conventional oil and why synthetic won't work?

Synthetic works just fine, from the start. The factory fill is at least a synthetic blend, and might even be full synthetic. Your engine will do very well with Pennzoil Gold synthetic Blend, Pennzoil Platinum, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

 

[DanW]

Yeah, I'm wondering if that "use conventional at first" might just be an old wive's tale, but I don't know for certain.

There may have been some truth to it, but if so, it would have been decades ago.

 

[BoisetheCat]

There may have been some truth to it, but if so, it would have been decades ago.

dan is there a mobil 1 twin filter that exists to pair with the AP or EP mobil oil for our pentastar?

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