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What will you be doing differently from the maintenance schedule?

BillyHW

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The posted manual has the following recommended maintenance schedule. (I've attached a PDF with the relevant pages.)

Will you be doing anything differently from this schedule?

I've noticed that there isn't anything at all about changing the 8-Speed Auto transmission fluid. And apparently it's a real pain to change and costs a fortune also. Supposedly it's lifetime sealed, but "lifetime" could just mean "while still under warranty".

Then there are some who say you should never change the transmission fluid because all the ground up grit keeps the clutch packs from slipping in an older tranny.

Maybe it's better to just let the tranny run until it dies and then replace it with a brand new one?

I will probably change the filters once a year every spring, because they are cheap and easy to replace. I may also put a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner in the gas tank every spring.

I will also probably do at least 6 month oil changes instead of the 12 month now recommended.

Does anyone know if the EVIC keeps track of engine run/idle time since the last oil change reset? They say not to go over 350 hours but how do you keep track of that?
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Rockmaninoff

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The posted manual has the following recommended maintenance schedule. (I've attached a PDF with the relevant pages.)

Will you be doing anything differently from this schedule?

I've noticed that there isn't anything at all about changing the 8-Speed Auto transmission fluid. And apparently it's a real pain to change and costs a fortune also. Supposedly it's lifetime sealed, but "lifetime" could just mean "while still under warranty".

Then there are some who say you should never change the transmission fluid because all the ground up grit keeps the clutch packs from slipping in an older tranny.

Maybe it's better to just let the tranny run until it dies and then replace it with a brand new one?

I will probably change the filters once a year every spring, because they are cheap and easy to replace. I may also put a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner in the gas tank every spring.

I will also probably do at least 6 month oil changes instead of the 12 month now recommended.

Does anyone know if the EVIC keeps track of engine run/idle time since the last oil change reset? They say not to go over 350 hours but how do you keep track of that?
I change oil every 6 months on my 3.6 JKU. The oil change intervals must be kept track of just like in the JK ecu. I even vaguely remember seeing the instructions on how to do it as well.

My dream gadget is a real-time oil quality sensor and display. The sensor itself is not complicated but just don't know where to fit it.
 

AZCrawl

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The posted manual has the following recommended maintenance schedule. (I've attached a PDF with the relevant pages.)

Will you be doing anything differently from this schedule?

I've noticed that there isn't anything at all about changing the 8-Speed Auto transmission fluid. And apparently it's a real pain to change and costs a fortune also. Supposedly it's lifetime sealed, but "lifetime" could just mean "while still under warranty".

Then there are some who say you should never change the transmission fluid because all the ground up grit keeps the clutch packs from slipping in an older tranny.

Maybe it's better to just let the tranny run until it dies and then replace it with a brand new one?

I will probably change the filters once a year every spring, because they are cheap and easy to replace. I may also put a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner in the gas tank every spring.

I will also probably do at least 6 month oil changes instead of the 12 month now recommended.

Does anyone know if the EVIC keeps track of engine run/idle time since the last oil change reset? They say not to go over 350 hours but how do you keep track of that?
Lifetime equates to about 100k miles.
 

The Great Grape Ape

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Will do what I always do initially, do first conventional oil + filter change around 500-1,000KMs to get rid of any residual engine mfr debris , then do another at the normal interval of additional ~6,000-8,000KMs when the computer says at that time switching to full synthetic for life. First two rounds with conventional oil ‘til 7-9,000KM is to allow for gaskets/seals and everything to setup properly etc (supposedly no longer required, especially with so many engines shipping with synthetic, but might as well break in with conventional oil), and then switch to full synthetic oil for remainder of life, especially in preparation of winter, so change to synthetic might happen earlier if November arrives before 9,000KMs.

Also have dealer switch to high flow K&N washable air filter (keep paper filter for any forseen use with heavy exposure to silica which may be an issue for K&N [still a lot of debate about that]).

Other than that, likely going to pretty much stick with the schedule.
Not going to concern myself much with the transmission while under warranty (as mentioned Liftetime is actually 120,000 Miles or about 200,000KMs in the maintenance schedule), and then after that will decide based on service reports, etc.
 

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jeppesen.io

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> Change Engine Oil at 4,000 miles (6,500 km) or 350 hours of engine run time if the vehicle is operated in a dusty and off road environment

I plan to change every 5,000 miles on my multi-year overlanding journey. Easy to remember when to change without have having to track.

Interesting they recommend to change manual trans fluid every 30k if towing, off-road etc etc.

So maybe I'll do xfer case, axle, manual trans and air filter every 25k.
 

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I'll follow the recommended break-in procedures and period, do what Ape is doing with a run or two of good conventional oil, then I will go to a good synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1 EP or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra. I'll then probably change the oil in the spring and the fall. I'll change differential, manual tranny, and transfer case fluid after 10k miles, then every 30k. I'll run Mopar oils/fluids in those, if they are synthetic. If not, I'll run very high quality stuff from the auto store. I might push those intervals up if going on a big trip, such as Moab. As for coolant, I'll go with the factory recommendation. I've done this scheme with my JK, and it has served well and reliably. The only issue I've has was worn syncrhos in the transmission, but that has more to do with the NSG 370's design. I changed its fluid more than required along the way.

I'm also with Billy on the Top Tier gas. That's all I run in all of my vehicles. I've never had carbon build up, fuel contamination, or a fuel filter/pump issue since I started doing that. Around my AOA, we have Shell, Country Mark, Phillips 66, and a couple of Mobil stations. I'm not sure about BP. Are they Top Tier? I run Shell 99% of the time.

This vehicle's target service life for me is 300,000 miles, same as my JKU. My JKU might not get there for 15 years, though, at the rate I drive it. It is an 08 with 119,500 on it right now. Still looks and drives like new. This JLU will probably be my last new vehicle before I retire. (My wife will get at least one, maybe 2 more between now and then. I'm 49 years old, btw. I plan to be able to retire by 62, although I probably won't.)
 
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BillyHW

BillyHW

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Can 10-year coolant be trusted to go for the full 10 years?
 

macintux

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I'm pretty aggressive with my oil changes and tire rotations on my '05 LJ, because the local Meineke will do both for fairly cheap and I really want these tires to last - by far the most I've ever paid for tires, although nothing compared to the really hard-core options. I do both every 3k miles because why not?
 

DanW

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Can 10-year coolant be trusted to go for the full 10 years?
I remember a similar question about 5 year coolant. I'll do it, but only on Mopar coolant, which is a HOAT, or Hybrid Organic Technology, coolant. I did my JK at 5 years, and again in September at 10. I've had zero issues and the coolant has always tested and looked good. I ran the proper Mopar coolant, though. I have friends with JK's that went with more frequent changes, but with Prestone or Peak. Some, not all, have had problems, including one that had to have a new heater core because his became gunked up with crap. I'm guessing they used the wrong coolant formula. I know Zerex G-05 is the same HOAT as the proper Mopar coolant for my JK (I think they actually make it for Chrysler, but it is a different color in their own branding). I haven't run it, but I keep a 50/50 jug of it for long trips, and I run it in my Mercedes, which specifies the same type.

The key is to occasionally test it with a tester and just look at it. If it looks like it is deteriorating, changing color, or accumulating debris, I'll change it. My JK's coolant looked brand new when they changed it in September, and tested like new, even though it was 5 years old. I never had to add any, either.

I even ran the notorious GM Dex-cool in my GM cars for the full 5 year intervals, and never had an issue with any of them. I monitored them closely, too.
 

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The OCI in my 300s is 10k miles why would it be any more frequent in the Jeep ?
 

DanW

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The OCI in my 300s is 10k miles why would it be any more frequent in the Jeep ?
Quote? I'm not sure who/what you are responding to.
 

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Those who want to do it every 5k.
Ahh, ok. I'll go with whatever the book says on the original oil for the break-in period. My first oil change. I'm not 100% sure what I'll do after that. It depends on what the oil life monitor, assuming it has one, says. I'm guessing 3k on the first change, then 5k, then the normal interval after that. I'll probably do a used oil analysis after the 2nd change. Heck, I may even do one on each of the changes for the first few. They won't be coming that often, as I won't be piling the miles on this thing very fast. It will be more of a weekend warrior than everyday driver. The JK will be driven most days. I want to see how far that old 3.8 will run!
 
 







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