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Beginning of locker sensor failure?

chevymitchell

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I am a service advisor at dealerships (and have been for 5 years). I would NOT remove the diff covers if under warranty, otherwise that gives technicians and service managers a reason to not warranty whatever they find.

Also note it is a total waste of your time to take it in to a technician if the problem happened once, and no lights are currently on the dash. Very unlikely there is a code stored in the computer. A trip to the dealer with an "it happened once" complaint usually results in a 2-8 hour waste of your time.... along with everyone else involved.

You'll need to wait until they are able to duplicate the problem on command, so they can identify the cause, and replace the failing/failed part under warranty.
The only time you'll see this problem being reproduced is by shear luck or it's failed completely.

Taking the cover off will not void anything. There are many axles out there now without a drain plug so the only way a person could service their diff is by taking the cover off.

Totally agree with the waste of time point though.
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I am a service advisor at dealerships (and have been for 5 years). I would NOT remove the diff covers if under warranty, otherwise that gives technicians and service managers a reason to not warranty whatever they find.

Also note it is a total waste of your time to take it in to a technician if the problem happened once, and no lights are currently on the dash. Very unlikely there is a code stored in the computer. A trip to the dealer with an "it happened once" complaint usually results in a 2-8 hour waste of your time.... along with everyone else involved.

You'll need to wait until they are able to duplicate the problem on command, so they can identify the cause, and replace the failing/failed part under warranty.
James, I was wondering about all of that. Thank you VERY MUCH for your advice; I will follow it!
 

Terrymo

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I am a service advisor at dealerships (and have been for 5 years). I would NOT remove the diff covers if under warranty, otherwise that gives technicians and service managers a reason to not warranty whatever they find.

Also note it is a total waste of your time to take it in to a technician if the problem happened once, and no lights are currently on the dash. Very unlikely there is a code stored in the computer. A trip to the dealer with an "it happened once" complaint usually results in a 2-8 hour waste of your time.... along with everyone else involved.

You'll need to wait until they are able to duplicate the problem on command, so they can identify the cause, and replace the failing/failed part under warranty.
If that’s a thing at your dealership, please post where, so nobody goes there. Beyond that, how a technician (with a gasket that is reusable multiple times) could prove the diff cover has been removed once is beyond me. I know you’re well meaning but it seems very far fetched.
 

lindaspins

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Today I saw my front locker symbol flash on and off for a few seconds. There were no other apparent issues, and it did not happen again (we were on the interstate for about 40 more minutes).

Should I assume this is the beginning of the dreaded locker position sensor failure, or could it be something else?
That's exactly how ours started. It was intermittent for quite a while. Dealership wouldn't do anything until the service locker light was on full time; eventually it was replaced under warranty.
 

chevymitchell

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If that’s a thing at your dealership, please post where, so nobody goes there. Beyond that, how a technician (with a gasket that is reusable multiple times) could prove the diff cover has been removed once is beyond me. I know you’re well meaning but it seems very far fetched.
He's an advisor at Mercedes.
 

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chevymitchell

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James, I was wondering about all of that. Thank you VERY MUCH for your advice; I will follow it!
Follow these steps and you'll be good to go:
  1. Follow the write-up to pot your sensors. If there is oil present, make sure to clean out with electronics cleaner after drilling your 3 holes.
  2. Clean the bulkhead feed-thru with electronics cleaner.
  3. Reinstall the sensors and connect the feed-thru.
  4. Then test your lockers.
  5. Drive your Jeep and be happy it's fixed. Lol
  6. If the light comes back on, then one of the 3 caps in the sensor were already damaged.
  7. Download the TSB for sensor replacement. Pot those sensors, too. Then find the right set that works to keep the locker light out.
  8. That's it.
 

Terrymo

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Follow these steps and you'll be good to go:
  1. Follow the write-up to pot your sensors. If there is oil present, make sure to clean out with electronics cleaner after drilling your 3 holes.
  2. Clean the bulkhead feed-thru with electronics cleaner.
  3. Reinstall the sensors and connect the feed-thru.
  4. Then test your lockers.
  5. Drive your Jeep and be happy it's fixed. Lol
  6. If the light comes back on, then one of the 3 caps in the sensor were already damaged.
  7. Download the TSB for sensor replacement. Pot those sensors, too. Then find the right set that works to keep the locker light out.
  8. That's it.
@Wabujitsu if a bonehead like me can do it you can too.
 

grimmjeeper

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If that’s a thing at your dealership, please post where, so nobody goes there. Beyond that, how a technician (with a gasket that is reusable multiple times) could prove the diff cover has been removed once is beyond me. I know you’re well meaning but it seems very far fetched.
You can see tool marks on the bolt heads and cover.

But the point is valid. If you don't have (or don't know you have) a drain plug and you service the diff with fresh oil you'll have those marks. Hell, if you pull the cover to inspect while draining/refilling, you'll have marks.

Any dealer that tried to void a warranty for performing routine maintenance should be avoided, no matter what brand it is.
 

Terrymo

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You can see tool marks on the bolt heads and cover.

But the point is valid. If you don't have (or don't know you have) a drain plug and you service the diff with fresh oil you'll have those marks. Hell, if you pull the cover to inspect while draining/refilling, you'll have marks.

Any dealer that tried to void a warranty for performing routine maintenance should be avoided, no matter what brand it is.
I guess I’m living recklessly then.
 

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grimmjeeper

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I guess I’m living recklessly then.
I welded trusses on my axles long ago. Warranty for me is non existent.

Then again, I'm probably more qualified to work on my axles than the wrench turning monkeys at the dealership anyway.
 

Terrymo

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I welded trusses on my axles long ago. Warranty for me is non existent.

Then again, I'm probably more qualified to work on my axles than the wrench turning monkeys at the dealership anyway.
I’m not, but I insist on watching videos from you and @chevymitchell and doing stuff anyway.
 

chevymitchell

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I’m not, but I insist on watching videos from you and @chevymitchell and doing stuff anyway.
The community outside of the dealership is always a better go to. No filter and no greedy advantage to helping here. Just straight data, tips, tricks, and the common ground of the sport itself. Dealerships would go a long way if they embraced community over policy. People don't mind paying to get things fixed. It's the "getting fucked without taking me to dinner first" feeling you get just by pulling into their parking lot.
 

grimmjeeper

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The community outside of the dealership is always a better go to. No filter and no greedy advantage to helping here. Just straight data, tips, tricks, and the common ground of the sport itself. Dealerships would go a long way if they embraced community over policy. People don't mind paying to get things fixed. It's the "getting fucked without taking me to dinner first" feeling you get just by pulling into their parking lot.
And they don't even have the courtesy to give you a reach-around either...
 

grimmjeeper

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I’m not, but I insist on watching videos from you and @chevymitchell and doing stuff anyway.
I have 4 axles in the queue that will get videos. An old CJ with a Dana 30 and AMC20, along with a Ford high pinion Dana 44 and 9". That last one will be different due to the drop out center section and adjusters in place of shims.
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