Trouble after doing the aux battery delete.

[AndySpill]

If the N3 was blown would you get a charge voltage showing when you go into your instrument cluster? I do show various charge voltages while running.

Rick: I simply don't know, having never blown N3. Sorry. Others have blown N3 and/or might know.

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[R-2]

Was the new battery fully charged or just popped in? It’s mentioned in post #11

I did just install it so it could have been low. Have had it on a trickle charger for a day now.

 

[TrailScooter]

Can someone in the know confirm the aux. delete. I've watched a few vids. they contradict....

I have a '20 jtr. It has been supercharged so the installer disabled ess.

What else do I need to do? remove aux. battery.
connect positive cable to main battery pos. terminal.
Tape up negative aux, wire... Izzat it?

 

[AcesandEights]

2019 JL Rubicon 6 cyl. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue ? My 2 batteries were about 2 years old and working fine. I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up. Left the aux battery in place for now. I also installed an autostop eliminator so I don't have to hit the button each time. All seemed ok at first, but I've had the vehicle not start on the first try a few times. Will start on 2nd try. Also after about 150 miles had the 'service auto stop' light come on. Went back off after turning off and restarting. I'm thinking about taking the aux battery out and taping up the wires from it. Any thoughts ?

Wouldn't just hooking it back up be a lot less hassle than the two batteries that were "working just fine". Seems like you now have an intermittent issue rather than what worked fine before. You were worried about something that might happen and created an issue that does happen. I'd ask for my money back.

 

[Mguy]

Can someone in the know confirm the aux. delete.
Confirm . . . what?

I've watched a few vids. they contradict....
I haven't watched any videos.

I have a '20 jtr. It has been supercharged so the installer disabled ess.
And you have "good" driving habits which keeps your two dissimilar batteries well charged. Or you have an after market battery management system. Or you use an external charger regularly. Or your electrical system is about to fail. Or something else.

What else do I need to do? remove aux. battery.
connect positive cable to main battery pos. terminal.
Tape up negative aux, wire... Izzat it?
Someone else should respond here.

 

[TrailScooter]

Someone else should respond here.

I agree completely...

 

[Mguy]

If the N3 was blown would you get a charge voltage showing when you go into your instrument cluster? I do show various charge voltages while running.

If you're even able to start or drive with a blown N3 while the aux negative is disconnected, you would have long complained of N1 devices not working. A for instance, there would be no radio/sound system.

Are you still having issues with the aux negative/F42 disconnect?

 

[Mguy]

I agree completely...

Sorry if I sound at all authoritarian, but this thread was started by an owner who decided to do a version of the aux battery "delete," and he has issues on that after the mod. You haven't decided what to do. Try this thread. Be sure to at least skim through before posting.

Or totally ignore what I just wrote.

 

[R-2]

Ok so after messing around with this for a few days, I've decided to put in a new aux battery and keep it in there. I think I'll change the aux battery in a couple years before it goes bad and ruins my H7 Odyssey. After I did the aux battery delete my 1st crank usually didn't start it. It felt like the battery was dead but would usually start on the 2nd try. I also had the service ess warning light come on. It went back off after a restart but didn't make me feel very confident in the set up. I checked the high amp fuses and they were fine. Also made sure all the connections were clean and tight, ground cables were all tight as well.... I just put it all back together and it is working perfect so will stay with the original setup. I installed an Auto Stop Eliminator in the process and it works great, not having to turn that off each time. Thanks for the replies and ideas but this seems to be the best choice for my Jeep. You need to be confident in your vehicle when you head out to remote places.
It's really strange how some can do the delete with no issues and some can't . ? ?

 

[zouch]

i'd suspect that the Auto Stop thingy is likely the variable.

if you've removed the Aux Batt and done the delete properly, do you even need the Auto Stop thingy anyway?

Ok so after messing around with this for a few days, I've decided to put in a new aux battery and keep it in there. I think I'll change the aux battery in a couple years before it goes bad and ruins my H7 Odyssey. After I did the aux battery delete my 1st crank usually didn't start it. It felt like the battery was dead but would usually start on the 2nd try. I also had the service ess warning light come on. It went back off after a restart but didn't make me feel very confident in the set up. I checked the high amp fuses and they were fine. Also made sure all the connections were clean and tight, ground cables were all tight as well.... I just put it all back together and it is working perfect so will stay with the original setup. I installed an Auto Stop Eliminator in the process and it works great, not having to turn that off each time. Thanks for the replies and ideas but this seems to be the best choice for my Jeep. You need to be confident in your vehicle when you head out to remote places.
It's really strange how some can do the delete with no issues and some can't . ? ?

 

[R-2]

Yes even when you do the delete the auto stop start keeps working. You would have to push the button each time.

 

[Mguy]

if you've removed the Aux Batt and done the delete properly, do you even need the Auto Stop thingy anyway?

Yes, if you want ESS off during driving either a software/hardware aftermarket device, or a hit to the dash button every time you start, is required. Aux battery neg/F42 disconnect only improves overall stock electrical performance on alternator equipped JLs (for typical Jeep driving).

 

[zouch]

so, seems like the first course of action to try to eliminate the variables would be cheap and easy; remove the Auto Stop thingy, and “Push the button, Max!”.

Yes even when you do the delete the auto stop start keeps working. You would have to push the button each time.

 

[zouch]

“improves overall stock electrical performance”?
um, yeah, OK,..

Yes, if you want ESS off during driving either a software/hardware aftermarket device, or a hit to the dash button every time you start, is required. Aux battery neg/F42 disconnect only improves overall stock electrical performance on alternator equipped JLs (for typical Jeep driving).

 

[AndySpill]

Ok so after messing around with this for a few days, I've decided to put in a new aux battery and keep it in there. I think I'll change the aux battery in a couple years before it goes bad and ruins my H7 Odyssey. After I did the aux battery delete my 1st crank usually didn't start it. It felt like the battery was dead but would usually start on the 2nd try. I also had the service ess warning light come on. It went back off after a restart but didn't make me feel very confident in the set up. I checked the high amp fuses and they were fine. Also made sure all the connections were clean and tight, ground cables were all tight as well.... I just put it all back together and it is working perfect so will stay with the original setup. I installed an Auto Stop Eliminator in the process and it works great, not having to turn that off each time. Thanks for the replies and ideas but this seems to be the best choice for my Jeep. You need to be confident in your vehicle when you head out to remote places.
It's really strange how some can do the delete with no issues and some can't . ? ?

Hi Rick:

What is the current status of the F42 fuse? With it present the dual AGM battery JL will be able to isolate this new Aux battery that you installed for an instant prior to cold cranking the engine to test its voltage.

Without the fuse present this test happens without the vehicle being the wiser, against all connected batteries.

This said, before I continue I want to make clear that I have no "horse in this race." I'm not one of those guys pushing for everyone to yank their Aux battery and disable ESS, much that I encouraging owners to take those steps provided that they have already decided that ESS isn't for them. FWIW I run factory, including ESS events, but I also have a roof rack (for other reasons) and on it a solar panel that charges both my batteries: such charging seeming to be a reality for those who want ESS abilities from infrequently used/low mileage/cold temperature JLs: all three conditions taxing, in particular, that motorcycle size Aux battery, and it so doing, potentially taxing the main battery, as discussed below, as is the nature of parallel battery connections as found in factory dual AGM battery JLs.

If you have already committed to not running ESS events though, logic refuses to have me accept that you keeping two batteries will do anything but increase not only your likelihood of problems but difficulty of troubleshooting them should they occur. If you don't have need for a battery, as you wouldn't the Aux battery if not running ESS events, then you simply don't connect it in parallel to another battery, particularly of different amp hour size, as the additional amp hours provided by that parallel connection are not needed, particularly but not limited to the fact that you've not only introduced a new, but larger (H7) battery, because the downside to such parallel connections is that if one of the batteries goes bad it can take the other battery out with it.

Yank that negative cable off the main battery's negative terminal, insulate it, yank fuse 42 and run your aftermarket ESS preventing tech.

To rephrase, Stellantis' dual AGM battery JL design leaves much to be desired. Rumor has it that it came to be given the sensitive electronics of the entertainment system and I can't help but think it a serious afterthought on the part of Stellantis engineers given where the battery is located, and its dissimilar size to the main battery. Battery purists run the same battery size and chemistry batteries in parallel, not this setup.

Think about it. Stellantis' recommended procedure for Aux battery swap is literally to break vehicle components: those plastic push pins in the front passenger's wheel well to get to it. That can't be the result of anything but design not originally anticipated, and because getting to the Aux battery from above, with no express part breakage, involves removing portions of the expensive Power Distribution Center, that when reinstalling could bend pins and cause all sorts of expensive part replacements if not done correctly.

Off soap box.

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