Trouble after doing the aux battery delete.

[R-2]

2019 JL Rubicon 6 cyl. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue ? My 2 batteries were about 2 years old and working fine. I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up. Left the aux battery in place for now. I also installed an autostop eliminator so I don't have to hit the button each time. All seemed ok at first, but I've had the vehicle not start on the first try a few times. Will start on 2nd try. Also after about 150 miles had the 'service auto stop' light come on. Went back off after turning off and restarting. I'm thinking about taking the aux battery out and taping up the wires from it. Any thoughts ?

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[andy29847]

2019 JL Rubicon 6 cyl. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue ? My 2 batteries were about 2 years old and working fine. I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up. Left the aux battery in place for now. I also installed an autostop eliminator so I don't have to hit the button each time. All seemed ok at first, but I've had the vehicle not start on the first try a few times. Will start on 2nd try. Also after about 150 miles had the 'service auto stop' light come on. Went back off after turning off and restarting. I'm thinking about taking the aux battery out and taping up the wires from it. Any thoughts ?

Some of the stop/start devices available by amazon or Ebay can cause this kind of trouble. The "Smart Stop Start" device is rock solid reliable.

Smart Stop Start - HOME

 

[calemasters]

I have had several GM vehicles with auto stop/start, and they all have had just one battery and work perfectly. Not sure why the Jeep has an auxillary battery.

My opinion: Make sure "both" batteies are good, reinstall the fuse and reconnect the auxillary battery cable(s).

 

[MountainsOcean]

Sounds like a aux battery issue to me.. I would do the bypass and go from there. My 2020 JL did the same, wouldn’t start on the first push. after doing the bypass it was no longer an issue.. week later out of curiosity I reinstalled the SAME aux battery and everything was completely working.. and has been for a year now. This was one of the few unexplainable occurrence I still ponder on.. Chrysler electrical at its finest!

 

[R-2]

Sounds like a aux battery issue to me.. I would do the bypass and go from there. My 2020 JL did the same, wouldn’t start on the first push. after doing the bypass it was no longer an issue.. week later out of curiosity I reinstalled the SAME aux battery and everything was completely working.. and has been for a year now. This was one of the few unexplainable occurrence I still ponder on.. Chrysler electrical at its finest!

Sorry what do you mean , do the bypass? I've disconnected the aux battery.

 

[MountainsOcean]

Sorry what do you mean , do the bypass? I've disconnected the aux battery.

I misunderstood, thought you reconnected the aux battery.. have you had your main battery load tested recently?

 

[AndySpill]

2019 JL Rubicon 6 cyl. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue ? My 2 batteries were about 2 years old and working fine. I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up. Left the aux battery in place for now. I also installed an autostop eliminator so I don't have to hit the button each time. All seemed ok at first, but I've had the vehicle not start on the first try a few times. Will start on 2nd try. Also after about 150 miles had the 'service auto stop' light come on. Went back off after turning off and restarting. I'm thinking about taking the aux battery out and taping up the wires from it. Any thoughts ?

Curious....in your dash (i.e. EVIC) does there appear an ESS off light?

I'm not talking about the button the owner/operator pushes to switch ESS on or off but in the dash is that light illuminated?

 

[R-2]

If I scroll thru settings it shows ESS off. I did have the 'service stop start' warning light come on once but it went off after the next start.

 

[melendez69]

2019 JL Rubicon 6 cyl. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue ? My 2 batteries were about 2 years old and working fine. I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up. Left the aux battery in place for now. I also installed an autostop eliminator so I don't have to hit the button each time. All seemed ok at first, but I've had the vehicle not start on the first try a few times. Will start on 2nd try. Also after about 150 miles had the 'service auto stop' light come on. Went back off after turning off and restarting. I'm thinking about taking the aux battery out and taping up the wires from it. Any thoughts ?

Have you read through this? Symptoms seem similar to yours.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/aux-battery-bypass-what-i’m-i-doing-wrong.116941

 

[VKSheridan]

My thoughts are delete the battery entirely as It doesn’t need to go for rides. Having a box of acid cruising around that offers nothing just doesn’t need to be there. If you’re getting the “ESS not ready”, verify Fuse 42 is indeed out. The Start/Stop Eliminator’s job is to simply default ESS to the last setting.

Respects

 

[Mguy]

I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up.

Sorry about your troubles after you did right. The issue may be with the new main battery and the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS). STAR publication S1408000384 Rev. F, particularly the first page section "IBS SOC Adaptation (Learning)" and the seventh page section "New IBS Installation" (even though you probably don't need a new IBS), seem to apply. Cut and paste below. Good luck.

​

​

IBS SOC Adaptation (Learning)​

Learning needs 1 crank and 2-4 hours of quiescent/sleep time.

Quiescent/Sleep time is defined as Quiescent phase: [-500mA, 50mA] battery current.

If unsure of quiescent state current, disconnect the vehicle ground cable (example below: Vehicle battery ground/charge point) from the IBS to guarantee no current flows through the battery during this period. IBS 2-way connection and clamp connection to battery negative post should remain connected for the IBS to operate. After completion of quiescent state, re-connect the ground back to the IBS. In normal operation, all current flowing through the battery needs to pass through the IBS for proper reading.


New IBS Installation

1. If the Installation of a new IBS sensor is required it should be onto a fully charged battery.

2. Once installed allow the sensor to read the SOC for up to 4 hours without added system loads.

3. Performing from 3 to 5 drive cycles with an 8-hour key off period will improve calibration accuracy of the new sensor for proper operation.

4. Continue the drive cycles to allow proper adaption of the battery sensor State of Charge (SOC) and State of Function (SOF).

 

[Leisure Freak]

Similar happened to me. I had bypassed the Aux in January without issue and then replaced the main battery in April. All was well but 2000+ miles after main battery replacement had the same no start and even dead dash condition when trying to start. Found it was my main battery cable connections were slightly lose. I could with some effort twist them. Tight but not tight enough. I tightened them to rock solid and never had issue come back 1.5 years later. These JLs sure have a voltage finicky system.

 

[garykk]

2019 JL Rubicon 6 cyl. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue ? My 2 batteries were about 2 years old and working fine. I wanted to delete the aux battery before I had trouble out in the middle of nowhere. So installed a new Odyssey H-7, removed the #42 fuse, removed the negative wire from aux battery and taped it up. Left the aux battery in place for now. I also installed an autostop eliminator so I don't have to hit the button each time. All seemed ok at first, but I've had the vehicle not start on the first try a few times. Will start on 2nd try. Also after about 150 miles had the 'service auto stop' light come on. Went back off after turning off and restarting. I'm thinking about taking the aux battery out and taping up the wires from it. Any thoughts ?

Was the new battery fully charged or just popped in? It’s mentioned in post #11

 

[AndySpill]

I might load test the new H7 battery to see if it holds and delivers charge well. This is not to be confused with taking a multimeter to the battery's terminals but a load tester.

Also, in the process of doing the Aux battery delete, occasionally that disconnected cable that people remove from the main battery's negative post touches metal and shorts out one of the high amp fuses.

In the Power Distribution Center (PDC) where you removed Fuse 42, on the side of the box under its cover closest to the driver's side, sits a series of high amp fuses that with a multimeter this time, set to its continuity setting, you can see if any of the fuses are blown, particularly N3. If this fuse is blown your alternator will not be able to charge your battery.

If any of the high amp fuses are blown the entire fuse array, but NOT the entire PDC, needs to be replaced. Which of two high amp fuse arrays is right for your vehicle can be found here.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/alert-high-amp-fuse-array-related.65085/

 

[R-2]

I might load test the new H7 battery to see if it holds and delivers charge well. This is not to be confused with taking a multimeter to the battery's terminals but a load tester.

Also, in the process of doing the Aux battery delete, occasionally that disconnected cable that people remove from the main battery's negative post touches metal and shorts out one of the high amp fuses.

In the Power Distribution Center (PDC) where you removed Fuse 42, on the side of the box under its cover closest to the driver's side, sits a series of high amp fuses that with a multimeter this time, set to its continuity setting, you can see if any of the fuses are blown, particularly N3. If this fuse is blown your alternator will not be able to charge your battery.

If any of the high amp fuses are blown the entire fuse array, but NOT the entire PDC, needs to be replaced. Which of two high amp fuse arrays is right for your vehicle can be found here.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/alert-high-amp-fuse-array-related.65085/

If the N3 was blown would you get a charge voltage showing when you go into your instrument cluster? I do show various charge voltages while running.

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