Tazer settings remain when it's removed without unmarrying - live settings obviously become unavailable.
Spoiler, it's probably not the Tazer.
I have been chasing battery and intermittent parasitic draw issues for literally years on my '19 JLUR. 'Very' long story a little shorter, it started after only a year with the infamous AUX switches unavailable issue... first AUX battery pulled the entire system down - replaced 2 aux batteries and 2 main batteries over the next 3 years with short lived success each time. I had installed the Tazer very early on to calibrate for 35s and keep the ESS system off all the time (probably within 3 months of new) I read about the possible battery drain issues, power cycling, reboot procedures, etc. but even running the Tazer without the module physically connected for at least 6 months drain issues persisted (lost 'Live' functions, but otherwise did everything I really needed it to do). I wasn't ever sure if there was a specific cause (parasitic draws from Tazer/Rockslide power steps/etc, bad batteries, bad design overall :/) but being fed up with pulling everything apart to keep changing the AUX battery I ended up installing a Genesis Dual Battery System last year and isolated all aftermarket loads to the sPod which fed from the Second battery - leaving only non movable OEM loads on the cranking battery (Genesis is a great system BTW!) I unfortunately discovered that the cranking battery would still randomly drain, strangely often after long road trips, but sometimes after just sitting for 3 or 4 days in the garage. The Genesis system worked as advertised and let me jump the cranking battery with the push of a button. The Tazer (even disconnected) was the only modification that I hadn't actually rulled out - your timing with this post is ironic, last week I finally decided to directly test if there was additional parasitic draw caused by the Tazer. After some electrical acrobatics I got my meter wired in series with the '+" crank battery and main lead feeding everything - the trick was not breaking the connection 'waking up' the system doing this.
I leaned a few things... the Jeep takes a lot longer the go to sleep than I imagined and pulls more current than I expected (not sure why this suprised me, but I guess off really isn't off). After shut down, door close, dash off, walk keys far away the draw would drop from around 3A to about 1A within a few minutes - but stayed around 1A for over 15 minutes (I got bored of waiting so I just let it sit overnight at that point). I have read that different modules sequentially shut down over time, I guess that explains it. I did this 2 nights in a row with the Tazer attached and then once after full unmarry and disconnect. In the morning both days the Jeep was fully sleeping pulling only .02A/.03A with consistent blips to .05A/.07A every 2 or 3 seconds - exactly the same with AND wihout the Tazer. This eliminates the Tazer as the problem (at least in my mind).
I've always been told that anything below 0.05A draw is normal with todays systems and should be considered normal - not sure about the blips to 0.07A, but still not that high. At this point I think I can safely isolate the issue is and has always been some systems are intermittently not fully going to sleep at all and killing batteries - for a reason(s) that I havent yet been able to isolate or recreate. Unless there is a Jeep systems engineer reading this that can shed some light on the situation, I'm going to just carry on with my Genesis backup and my NOCO jump pack back-up back-up (belt and suspenders). I still love my Jeep!
BTW - my Jeep is also one of the ill fated 6-speeds, sorting out the clutch issues in the past few years was WAY more fun than chasing down a little current draw (Centerforce has the best clutch/hydraulics upgrade/solution IMHO). All I can say - it's a Jeep.
Do you ever use the in motion navigation feature on your Tazer?Spoiler, it's probably not the Tazer.
I have been chasing battery and intermittent parasitic draw issues for literally years on my '19 JLUR. 'Very' long story a little shorter, it started after only a year with the infamous AUX switches unavailable issue... first AUX battery pulled the entire system down - replaced 2 aux batteries and 2 main batteries over the next 3 years with short lived success each time. I had installed the Tazer very early on to calibrate for 35s and keep the ESS system off all the time (probably within 3 months of new) I read about the possible battery drain issues, power cycling, reboot procedures, etc. but even running the Tazer without the module physically connected for at least 6 months drain issues persisted (lost 'Live' functions, but otherwise did everything I really needed it to do). I wasn't ever sure if there was a specific cause (parasitic draws from Tazer/Rockslide power steps/etc, bad batteries, bad design overall :/) but being fed up with pulling everything apart to keep changing the AUX battery I ended up installing a Genesis Dual Battery System last year and isolated all aftermarket loads to the sPod which fed from the Second battery - leaving only non movable OEM loads on the cranking battery (Genesis is a great system BTW!) I unfortunately discovered that the cranking battery would still randomly drain, strangely often after long road trips, but sometimes after just sitting for 3 or 4 days in the garage. The Genesis system worked as advertised and let me jump the cranking battery with the push of a button. The Tazer (even disconnected) was the only modification that I hadn't actually rulled out - your timing with this post is ironic, last week I finally decided to directly test if there was additional parasitic draw caused by the Tazer. After some electrical acrobatics I got my meter wired in series with the '+" crank battery and main lead feeding everything - the trick was not breaking the connection 'waking up' the system doing this.
I leaned a few things... the Jeep takes a lot longer the go to sleep than I imagined and pulls more current than I expected (not sure why this suprised me, but I guess off really isn't off). After shut down, door close, dash off, walk keys far away the draw would drop from around 3A to about 1A within a few minutes - but stayed around 1A for over 15 minutes (I got bored of waiting so I just let it sit overnight at that point). I have read that different modules sequentially shut down over time, I guess that explains it. I did this 2 nights in a row with the Tazer attached and then once after full unmarry and disconnect. In the morning both days the Jeep was fully sleeping pulling only .02A/.03A with consistent blips to .05A/.07A every 2 or 3 seconds - exactly the same with AND wihout the Tazer. This eliminates the Tazer as the problem (at least in my mind).
I've always been told that anything below 0.05A draw is normal with todays systems and should be considered normal - not sure about the blips to 0.07A, but still not that high. At this point I think I can safely isolate the issue is and has always been some systems are intermittently not fully going to sleep at all and killing batteries - for a reason(s) that I havent yet been able to isolate or recreate. Unless there is a Jeep systems engineer reading this that can shed some light on the situation, I'm going to just carry on with my Genesis backup and my NOCO jump pack back-up back-up (belt and suspenders). I still love my Jeep!
BTW - my Jeep is also one of the ill fated 6-speeds, sorting out the clutch issues in the past few years was WAY more fun than chasing down a little current draw (Centerforce has the best clutch/hydraulics upgrade/solution IMHO). All I can say - it's a Jeep.
I don't use that feature, Android Auto/CarPlay/Google maps are so superior I never use the on-board nav anyway. That said, I remember the Tazer instructions saying something about "in motion" functionality should NOT be left enabled when not in use - I'm guessing that this may have something to do with keeping the Jeep from going to sleep = battery drain?
I was going through similar and got to the point it killed two brand new batteries overnight to the point it wouldn't even take jump from flatbed so towed it and dealership found out it was not completely shutting down something's. Jeep sent someone to flash it or something and it's been fine since.Spoiler, it's probably not the Tazer.
I have been chasing battery and intermittent parasitic draw issues for literally years on my '19 JLUR. 'Very' long story a little shorter, it started after only a year with the infamous AUX switches unavailable issue... first AUX battery pulled the entire system down - replaced 2 aux batteries and 2 main batteries over the next 3 years with short lived success each time. I had installed the Tazer very early on to calibrate for 35s and keep the ESS system off all the time (probably within 3 months of new) I read about the possible battery drain issues, power cycling, reboot procedures, etc. but even running the Tazer without the module physically connected for at least 6 months drain issues persisted (lost 'Live' functions, but otherwise did everything I really needed it to do). I wasn't ever sure if there was a specific cause (parasitic draws from Tazer/Rockslide power steps/etc, bad batteries, bad design overall :/) but being fed up with pulling everything apart to keep changing the AUX battery I ended up installing a Genesis Dual Battery System last year and isolated all aftermarket loads to the sPod which fed from the Second battery - leaving only non movable OEM loads on the cranking battery (Genesis is a great system BTW!) I unfortunately discovered that the cranking battery would still randomly drain, strangely often after long road trips, but sometimes after just sitting for 3 or 4 days in the garage. The Genesis system worked as advertised and let me jump the cranking battery with the push of a button. The Tazer (even disconnected) was the only modification that I hadn't actually rulled out - your timing with this post is ironic, last week I finally decided to directly test if there was additional parasitic draw caused by the Tazer. After some electrical acrobatics I got my meter wired in series with the '+" crank battery and main lead feeding everything - the trick was not breaking the connection 'waking up' the system doing this.
I leaned a few things... the Jeep takes a lot longer the go to sleep than I imagined and pulls more current than I expected (not sure why this suprised me, but I guess off really isn't off). After shut down, door close, dash off, walk keys far away the draw would drop from around 3A to about 1A within a few minutes - but stayed around 1A for over 15 minutes (I got bored of waiting so I just let it sit overnight at that point). I have read that different modules sequentially shut down over time, I guess that explains it. I did this 2 nights in a row with the Tazer attached and then once after full unmarry and disconnect. In the morning both days the Jeep was fully sleeping pulling only .02A/.03A with consistent blips to .05A/.07A every 2 or 3 seconds - exactly the same with AND wihout the Tazer. This eliminates the Tazer as the problem (at least in my mind).
I've always been told that anything below 0.05A draw is normal with todays systems and should be considered normal - not sure about the blips to 0.07A, but still not that high. At this point I think I can safely isolate the issue is and has always been some systems are intermittently not fully going to sleep at all and killing batteries - for a reason(s) that I havent yet been able to isolate or recreate. Unless there is a Jeep systems engineer reading this that can shed some light on the situation, I'm going to just carry on with my Genesis backup and my NOCO jump pack back-up back-up (belt and suspenders). I still love my Jeep!
BTW - my Jeep is also one of the ill fated 6-speeds, sorting out the clutch issues in the past few years was WAY more fun than chasing down a little current draw (Centerforce has the best clutch/hydraulics upgrade/solution IMHO). All I can say - it's a Jeep.
Had this exact same problem months ago. Updated firmware and problem solved.
