Which engine to order with Rubicon (canceling a 4xe order)

[viper88]

I'm glad I didn't get the diesel.... I'm learning that diesel is bad for short trips. I have a less than 20mile trip one way to work that I run once a week. Other trips are 5 miles one way to the grocery store. Nonetheless, I think I'll be super happy iwth my 4banger.... aso I'm a little drunk

The diesel is probably not a good choice for your driving habits. The 2.0T is a excellent engine. The extra torque and power delivery hides the weight of the JL. It gets the rig going quickly. It is a little less refined as far as NVH and not as smooth as the 3.6 but is is a lot more fun. So yeah, I think you will be super happy with your 4-banger.

Also, I am dead sober.

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[OllieChristopher]

Something to consider is the replacement cost of the engine if you plan on keeping it. Also consider how handy you are with wrenching and what down time you can spare.

2.0 is a few years on the market so a new factory long block is going to be in the $6,000.00 range. 3.6 is a popular model and and a long block is just a bit more than $2,100.00. Both these engines are easy to remove and repair in your own garage with everyday hand tools and engine puller.

The 3.0 diesel is a whole different animal. Long block is pushing $8,000.00 and you are likely going to have to remove the body from the frame to replace or do any major repairs.

The modern diesel engine is double to triple in maintenance cost and repair and requires a whole bunch of specialized tools for testing components. Also they are no longer a "million mile motor". A gasser properly maintained (in most cases), will outlast a diesel in consumer level vehicles.

These are all things to consider when choosing your power plant.

 

[viper88]

Something to consider is the replacement cost of the engine if you plan on keeping it. Also consider how handy you are with wrenching and what down time you can spare.

2.0 is a few years on the market so a new factory long block is going to be in the $6,000.00 range. 3.6 is a popular model and and a long block is just a bit more than $2,100.00. Both these engines are easy to remove and repair in your own garage with everyday hand tools and engine puller.

The 3.0 diesel is a whole different animal. Long block is pushing $8,000.00 and you are likely going to have to remove the body from the frame to replace or do any major repairs.

The modern diesel engine is double to triple in maintenance cost and repair and requires a whole bunch of specialized tools for testing components. Also they are no longer a "million mile motor". A gasser properly maintained (in most cases), will outlast a diesel in consumer level vehicles.

These are all things to consider when choosing your power plant.

Used engines might be a consideration for 2nd, 3rd, 4th owners? I think the percentage of original owners who plan on drivng these things until the engines die are very-very low. Add in the number of owners who have the time and or ability to replace a engine and the percentages drop even lower. Most will sell and buy whatever is recent when they need a new vehicle. ICE will be phased out by PHEV or EVs by the time many of these engines wear out.

I think the Hemi will be one of the most coveted Wrangler models of all time. The timing is right with EVs on the horizon.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Go ahead and put 5 quarts in and see what that'll end up costing you.

Let's see . . . I said, " Pennzoil Platinum is $23.97 for a 5-qt jug. And the filter is $25. That's $75. "

$23.97 + $25 = $48.97.

Odd . . . $48.97 =/= $75.

What could be my problem? The math doesn't add up. Wonder what would happen if . . . I don't know . . . I bought 2 5-qt jugs at $23.97 each?

$23.97*2+$25 = $72.94. Which is pretty darn close to $75.

You think I don't know the diesel takes 9 quarts?

 

[00 Trans Ram]

The Diesel takes 8.5 quarts of synthetic at ~$13/ quart and the diesel filter is $50 (not any cheap knockoffs out there that I see). So it's $150 even if you DIY.

Not sure what the labor cost is but the filter placement is annoying as heck so they probably ding you for that.

I bet most of the ecodiesel oil changes by third parties are $200+.

$23.97 per 5-qts - https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550...ynthetic/dp/B01M6YFM58/ref=asc_df_B01M6YFM58/

$25.60 oil filter - https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...dp/B0986XV8CX/ref=psdc_15727201_t5_B08G8K3Q42

$75 total

 

[OllieChristopher]

Yes Nick. I was just mentioning in another thread of how odd I am compared to other owners. I purchase my vehicles as a tool and run the wheels off of them. I research cost of ownership and parts before making a choice.

Motorcycles for example. For racing I purchased a KTM 300EXC. It was a money pit but very capable machine for winning and finishing races.

When purchasing my touring "adventure bike" I considered a BMW GS. After all, it is the most popular. After almost puking at the initial cost of ownership and lack of reliability after warranty, I was put out. I ended up with a Yamaha Super Tenere and could not be happier. Just a hair more than one third the cost new, parts are 1/4 the cost and reliable as a hammer.

My truck is a 15 year old bare bones GMC Sierra with no AC, manual transmission, 4.3 V6 and manual windows. It's pushing 150,000 miles and just breaking in.

My wife and I are considering a 2 door Jeep for going to the cabin in winter and me hitting some local trails. The prices are finally starting to loosen up somewhat so maybe in another year or so?

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Same! I have a couple boats, a camper, and borrow or rent a utility trailer every month or two.

I've owned a lot of Jeeps, and started contacting Jeep in the mid-90s asking for a diesel Wrangler. As I was one of those people asking for so long, I also wanted to put my $ where my mouth was.

No regrets. My mileage is great (for a Jeep), my range is excellent (especially off-road), the torque is addictive, the clatter speaks to the enthusiast in me, and my wife loves surprising people at stoplights with how quick it is.

Yes, it will tow 5500 lbs, but still rated to 3500. As others have said, this is mostly due to frame, suspension, and brake capabilities more so than power, even with the gas engines.

I don't think the lower tow rating has ANYTHING to do with Jeep's design of the Wrangler (frame, suspension, brakes, etc.). Because Jeep will rate it to 5500lbs in the EU and AUS, this says that the Wrangler will handle that much weight.

I think the difference is that the EU and AUS takes into account trailer brakes. With trailer brakes, the tow rating goes up to 5500lbs. However, the SAE standard used for tow ratings in the US make no allowance for a different tow rating with/without trailer brakes.

 

[guarnibl]

Hey all,

I've read through a lot of these threads but I'm interested in getting some fresh thoughts on this question. I have been waiting for a 4xe for months and reading the endless issues and shutdowns, I'm going to restart the ordering process (woe is me!). In doing so, here are my engine considerations.

1 - It will be a rubicon. I will take it off road but really not a ton. Live in PA and likely will see more trails than actual rock climbs.
2 - I will have the tow package but won't tow much if ever.
3 - Will have standard wheels and no lift.
4 - Will have a mix of commute miles (20 miles/day at 30-45 mph) and longer 4-6 hour trips once every couple months.

What I want: Mostly reliability. But also some nod to fuel efficiency and fun.

Really tossed up between the three engines: V6, 4-turbo, and ecodiesel. I'd pull the trigger on the diesel but I feel like its reliability is somewhat a concern and it is loud (is it?). Love to hear more about it. V6 is the most reliable but its MPGs blow and it's kind of the middle child--good at a bunch, great at nothing. 4-turbo gets good mpg and a nice jump from the gun but I hesitate with the meager 4-banger. Is it really any fun? Anyways welcome the thoughts.

At least I can get the Sarge Green if I go through with this.

IMO, there's no reason to get the Rubicon. I'd probably get a Willy's or Willy's Sport in your position.

That said, if I were in your position I would buy the 4 cylinder. It's more fun than the 6 and diesel to drive (subjective), and the fuel economy at that mph is pretty solid -- diesel gets better fuel economy on the highway but it's less of a difference at that lower speed.

Regarding reliability of diesel no one can answer that with real data on the latest ecodiesel yet. Yes, it's louder than the 4 cyl. You'll notice it mostly though when going through drive thrus with your window down where it resonates.

My $0.02.

Coming from someone who owns/owned literally every engine choice but the 4xe (3.6 -- though sold it, 2.0, ecodiesel, 392).

 

[OllieChristopher]

You think I don't know the diesel takes 9 quarts?

LOL Matt!! some guys just can't do math!! Main thing is you are enjoying your Jeep. Only thing I would highly recommend is not to do DEF deletes or big HP modifications. If you maintain it and keep it stock, i imagine you will get a few hundred thousand trouble free miles.

 

[F2F]

The hp and torque curve is why I like the 3.6 over the little tuner car 2.0.

That’s exactly the opposite of what the graph shows.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

LOL Matt!! some guys just can't do math!! Main thing is you are enjoying your Jeep. Only thing I would highly recommend is not to do DEF deletes or big HP modifications. If you maintain it and keep it stock, i imagine you will get a few hundred thousand trouble free miles.

Agreed 100%.

I don't need a Wrangler with 500+hp. Not drag racing this thing any time soon!

Also no desire to roll coal or anything else. I had 2 criteria when buying a new car:
1) Had to be able to tow my boat
2) Had to be fun/unique (doors off, top off, customizable, etc.)

That meant Wrangler diesel. I bought the first one I found that they would sell at MSRP. Didn't care about color, trim level, or most options (needed tow package, not base radio, and aux switches).

 

[viper88]

Yes Nick. I was just mentioning in another thread of how odd I am compared to other owners. I purchase my vehicles as a tool and run the wheels off of them. I research cost of ownership and parts before making a choice.

Motorcycles for example. For racing I purchased a KTM 300EXC. It was a money pit but very capable machine for winning and finishing races.

When purchasing my touring "adventure bike" I considered a BMW GS. After all, it is the most popular. After almost puking at the initial cost of ownership and lack of reliability after warranty, I was put out. I ended up with a Yamaha Super Tenere and could not be happier. Just a hair more than one third the cost new, parts are 1/4 the cost and reliable as a hammer.

My truck is a 15 year old bare bones GMC Sierra with no AC, manual transmission, 4.3 V6 and manual windows. It's pushing 150,000 miles and just breaking in.

My wife and I are considering a 2 door Jeep for going to the cabin in winter and me hitting some local trails. The prices are finally starting to loosen up somewhat so maybe in another year or so?

I totally respect anyone who does due diligence on a expensive purchase.

I get what you mean about anything BMW. BMW=Bite My Wallet!

Surprisingly JLR pricing for me is not so different from 3 years ago. There is more standred equipment on the 2022 Rubicon so it actually might be cheaper than a 2021 for the same equipment. I was able to sell and buy a 3 model newer JLR for just about the same money.

Back in '19 I bought a 2019 JLR for 7%-under invoice. I sold that '19 JLR back in May of 2021 for more than what I paid all-in, taxes and everything. I ordered a 2022 JLR on 11/19/21 for 5%-under invoice because Affiliate was not active for Wranglers when I originally ordered on 11/19. The dealer will honor the extra 1% discount for Affiliate through Tread Lightly if it becomes active by the time I take actual delivery. Someone on this forum just posted Affiliate was valid on 2022 Wranglers again. Fingers crossed!

I did notice a few dealers started discounting less lately. So prices might be on the way back up? I noticed this starting in late Dec, 2021.

 

[CChadwick]

Easy the 2.0 is the way to go. Had the 3.6 in my 20 JLUR & 13, 14 JKUs. The 2.0 in my 21 JLUR is by far more fun to drive and much better on MPG.

I was a septic at first but now I am sold on the 2.0 as it has proven to be every bit as good and even better in more ways. It’s only down side is the sound. It reminds me of my 90s era Honda 4cly engine.

What’s MPG we’re you getting with the 2.0?

 

[Jhint77]

What’s MPG we’re you getting with the 2.0?

In my '21 JLUR with the 2.0t I am getting about 19 MPG mix highway and city. That's with 35's and a 2.5" lift. Not great but way better than my F-150.

 

[guarnibl]

In my '21 JLUR with the 2.0t I am getting about 19 MPG mix highway and city. That's with 35's and a 2.5" lift. Not great but way better than my F-150.

That's pretty good. My wife's 2 dr JLR (stock) is getting 20 -- 95% city.

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