Xtreme Recon Questions!

[CarbonSteel]

Are you talking about a JK? If so I agree with you and that is why I am running 5.13s with 37s on my JK. A JL with an 8 speed auto is a different story. Driving through 5,000 feet elevation mountains in Colorado vs sea level deserts in CA might also be the difference.

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[MilkSteak]

At the end of the day anything you take off an XR can easily be sold. Definitely need driveshaft, shocks, and wheels though for 37's and GC 3.5. As far as I know they barely fit XR wheels, and I'm not a fan of spacers, just another breaking point.

 

[Knightwing81]

I’m in exactly the same boat. My 22 XR should arrive next week. I’m currently debating between the MetalCloak 2.5 GC and Teraflex Alpine CT2 kits.

Even the 2.5” GC really needs a new driveshaft. The amount of flex the system offers with their shocks is impressive. You can run the stock one for a while but it’s borrowed time.

I’ve heard all the comments about why I paid for the XR and could care less about any of them. I think the tires/wheels, big brake kit, 4:56 gears, HD front axle all make it a great option for someone who wants to go to 37s. The bonus for me is the 6,100 lb GVWR makes the total purchase price tax deductible as this is my “work” vehicle.

 

[FryGuyTime]

I’m in exactly the same boat. My 22 XR should arrive next week. I’m currently debating between the MetalCloak 2.5 GC and Teraflex Alpine CT2 kits.

I have the Teraflex alpine lift on my JKU currently and like it quite a lot. Im not a huge fan of the shock though. They feel a bit stiff, but that seems to be common feedback from most people with falcon shocks. Im thinking of trying out some fox reservoir shocks, either the 2.0 or the 2.5s. But the 2.5s being double the price of the 2.0s is kinda annoying.

 

[Pig-Pen]

4.10s handle 37s just fine, the Mopar tire carrier doesn’t support the gate hinges, the beadlock wheels aren’t even bead locks without investing hundreds of extra dollars on the rings, are heavy, and have a terrible offset, the brakes are not noticeably different, and no matter what is different in the axle wall thickness or knuckles, the weak link is the FAD which will break 1st no matter if you have the stock Rubicon axle or the XR axle. Save the $4,000 to invest towards your real lift, real wheels, real tires, real tire carrier, and real HD front axle. Adding the $4,000 to your MSRP just makes your sales tax go up when you buy it and your future registration cost more each year when you renew it.

you make some valid points. Didnt even think of the FAD. It is nice to have warrantied gears though. I redid my gears but i dont have fancy oem lockers to worry about needing a warranty for. Id be more hesitant if i had a rubi

 

[CarbonSteel]

you make some valid points. Didnt even think of the FAD. It is nice to have warrantied gears though. I redid my gears but i dont have fancy oem lockers to worry about needing a warranty for. Id be more hesitant if i had a rubi

I added trusses to mine. I am probably in the minority, but I like the FAD.

 

[firedude]

I went with the 2.0’s (off the shelf) till my 2.5’s came in. Again, worth the money and wait. I can honestly say my Jeep rides considerably better than stock on the road and night and day off. The 2.0’s were stiff. Having the adjustment is big.

 

[Jtphoto]

4.10s handle 37s just fine, the Mopar tire carrier doesn’t support the gate hinges, the beadlock wheels aren’t even bead locks without investing hundreds of extra dollars on the rings, are heavy, and have a terrible offset, the brakes are not noticeably different, and no matter what is different in the axle wall thickness or knuckles, the weak link is the FAD which will break 1st no matter if you have the stock Rubicon axle or the XR axle. Save the $4,000 to invest towards your real lift, real wheels, real tires, real tire carrier, and real HD front axle. Adding the $4,000 to your MSRP just makes your sales tax go up when you buy it and your future registration cost more each year when you renew it.

This is the 392/Mojave front axle which has a heavier FAD then the standard Rubi housing As well as the tubes Which adds another 300lbs to the GVW (From 5,800lbs to 6,100lbs). The knuckles are cast steel rather then aluminum. The rear trackBar has a welded on, lifted, axle side mount. Those Beadlock Capable wheels are also 4.4” backspace 12mm Offset. All the XR really needs is a set of 2.5” springs and nicer shocks and you are set.
Adding $4k to your Jeep for $10k worth of equipment is always a win.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

This is the 392/Mojave front axle which has a heavier FAD then the standard Rubi housing As well as the tubes Which adds another 300lbs to the GVW (From 5,800lbs to 6,100lbs). The knuckles are cast steel rather then aluminum. The rear trackBar has a welded on, lifted, axle side mount. Those Beadlock Capable wheels are also 4.4” backspace 12mm Offset. All the XR really needs is a set of 2.5” springs and nicer shocks and you are set.
Adding $4k to your Jeep for $10k worth of equipment is always a win.

Lipstick on a pig is still a pig. Anything with a FAD is a weak axle.

 

[Jtphoto]

Lipstick on a pig is still a pig. Anything with a FAD is a weak axle.

Well then you can go right ahead and spend $10k on Aftermarket axles if you like. Overkill, is overkill... so why did you waste money on a Rubicon? You could have saved $20k and bought a Sport. If you are that hard on your rig then evidently need D60s so why buy a Rubicon at all If you are gonna change it all. Just go buy a base Sport and build your own .... Lipstick on a pig in your eyes maybe, but in the end is still cheaper then your Rubicon if you try and build it as strong or stronger.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

I'll agree to disagree--my experience with a 3.6L/4.10's/35's was horrible and 37's would have been worse. With 5.13's, I have an enjoyable Jeep again.

Recorded this on my way to the trail today just for you.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Well then you can go right ahead and spend $10k on Aftermarket axles if you like. Overkill, is overkill... so why did you waste money on a Rubicon? You could have saved $20k and bought a Sport. If you are that hard on your rig then evidently need D60s so why buy a Rubicon at all If you are gonna change it all. Just go buy a base Sport and build your own .... Lipstick on a pig in your eyes maybe, but in the end is still cheaper then your Rubicon if you try and build it as strong or stronger.

My Rubicon suits my needs and if I am going to throw an extra $4K into it, it's not going to be for the XR options. That's all. Btw, I do have a Sport with custom axles. It's also nicer than a XR

 

[CarbonSteel]

Recorded this on my way to the trail today just for you.

<shrug> There were times I could do that too, but never consistently else I would not have re-geared (twice).

Glad it works for you, but the vast majority who have driven a properly geared Jeep would not agree.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

<shrug> There were times I could do that too, but never consistently else I would not have re-geared (twice).

Glad it works for you, but the vast majority who have driven a properly geared Jeep would not agree.

I think new JL owners that were previous JK owners and had to re-gear for 37s assumed they had to re-gear their JLs before even trying it and don't want to admit that they spent the money and voided their axle warranty when they didn't have to. Truth is that there is more to the equation than simply 37" tire = 5.13 gears. The engine type, the transmission type, the altitude, the weight of the mods, and terrain are all factors. There were diesel engines at EJS running 40" tires on 3.73 gears. To flat out say that you cannot run 37s with the stock 4.10 across the board is simply not true...as I have demonstrated in the video.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I think new JL owners that were previous JK owners and had to re-gear for 37s assumed they had to re-gear their JLs before even trying it and don't want to admit that they spent the money and voided their axle warranty when they didn't have to. Truth is that there is more to the equation than simply 37" tire = 5.13 gears. The engine type, the transmission type, the altitude, and terrain are all factors. There were diesel engines at EJS running 40" tires on 3.73 gears. To flat out say that you cannot run 37s with the stock 4.10 across the board is simply not true...as I have demonstrated in the video.

Never owned a JK and yes there is more to the equation that simply gearing. I never said you cannot run 4.10s with 37's across the board, but I will not try to defend the concept they are "just fine" either.

Torque is the common denominator (or the lack thereof) when choosing gearing for a certain tire size. A diesel develops a ton of torque at low RPMs which is why low gearing is not needed.

However, I have (unlike most) gone through the entire progression:

33's & 4.10's
35's & 4.10's
35's & 4.88's
37's & 4.88's
37's & 5.13's

There is zero question in my mind about what gear should be ran with a 3.6L and 37's and it is not 4.10s.

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