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Xtreme Recon Questions!

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FryGuyTime

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4.10s handle 37s just fine, the Mopar tire carrier doesn’t support the gate hinges, the beadlock wheels aren’t even bead locks without investing hundreds of extra dollars on the rings, are heavy, and have a terrible offset, the brakes are not noticeably different, and no matter what is different in the axle wall thickness or knuckles, the weak link is the FAD which will break 1st no matter if you have the stock Rubicon axle or the XR axle. Save the $4,000 to invest towards your real lift, real wheels, real tires, real tire carrier, and real HD front axle. Adding the $4,000 to your MSRP just makes your sales tax go up when you buy it and your future registration cost more each year when you renew it.
Georgia doesnt do yearly tax on vehicles. But yea, lemme just go out and 6k+ on a new front axle. lmao. I also dont want 4.10 gear ratio, thats why im picking the XR. if you dont the cost breakdown, its more than worth it.
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kah.mun.rah

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Georgia doesnt do yearly tax on vehicles. But yea, lemme just go out and 6k+ on a new front axle. lmao. I also dont want 4.10 gear ratio, thats why im picking the XR. if you dont the cost breakdown, its more than worth it.
It's only a $2K axle if you didn't spend 4K on the XR package and the aftermarket axle won't have a weak FAD breaking point and will have a better pinion angle for 3"+ lifts....and you can easily sell a stock Rubicon front axle for $2K or more making that $6K axle a wash. ;) You will get $1,500 re-selling the wheels, tires, shocks and springs...so basically paying $2,500 for a 4.56 re-gear when 4.88 or 5.13 are better choices for 37s anyway. To each his own but the only way I see the XR being cost effective is if a person keeps the XR lift, wheels, and 35s. That said, I would be lying if I said that I never threw unnecessary money at my Jeep.
 
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JayJay

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Yearly registration in any state is based on the original sale price
That is not true in Georgia. The total renewal fee is $20 each year.
 

JDLouisville

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4.10s handle 37s just fine, the Mopar tire carrier doesn’t support the gate hinges, the beadlock wheels aren’t even bead locks without investing hundreds of extra dollars on the rings, are heavy, and have a terrible offset, the brakes are not noticeably different, and no matter what is different in the axle wall thickness or knuckles, the weak link is the FAD which will break 1st no matter if you have the stock Rubicon axle or the XR axle. Save the $4,000 to invest towards your real lift, real wheels, real tires, real tire carrier, and real HD front axle. Adding the $4,000 to your MSRP just makes your sales tax go up when you buy it and your future registration cost more each year when you renew it.
Please define “heavy,” and ”terrible offset.”
 

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FryGuyTime

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It's only a $2K axle if you didn't spend 4K on the XR package and the aftermarket axle won't have a weak FAD breaking point and will have a better pinion angle for 3"+ lifts....and you can easily sell a stock Rubicon front axle for $2K or more making that $6K axle a wash. ;) You will get $1,500 re-selling the wheels, tires, shocks and springs...so basically paying $2,500 for a 4.56 re-gear when 4.88 or 5.13 are better choices for 37s anyway. To each his own but the only way I see the XR being cost effective is if a person keeps the XR lift, wheels, and 35s. That said, I would be lying if I said that I never threw unnecessary money at my Jeep.
im not here to argue with you. I have questions and if you dont have answers, you can stop replying.
 

kah.mun.rah

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im not here to argue with you. I have questions and if you dont have answers, you can stop replying.
Sorry, my point isnt to argue. You arent the 1st to pay for the XR and then remove most of the parts so I am just curious about the thought process behind that decision. To answer your questions,

can you run 37s on stock wheels without rubbing? Probably not without spacers but it all depends on the brand of the tire (some are true 37" in diameter and others are smaller), if you are going with 12.5 or 13.5 on the width of the tire, the size of the lift, and if you use adjustable control arms or not to re-center the wheels in the wheel wells.

Will a 3.5" lift require a different driveshaft? The good news is that even though a JK required 3.5" of lift for 37s, you can clear 37s with only 2-2.5" of lift on a JLUR. If you do decide to go with 3.5" the pinion angle a that lift height will put some wear and tear on the CV connection of a stock driveshaft so a new one will probably need to be on the future mod list.

Can a JK bumper mount on a JL? No, not without some modification. Attachment points are not the same.

Will the XR shocks work with a 3.5" lift. From what I have heard the XR shocks struggle to match the full flex of the stock XR lift so my guess is that they would not be able to extend enough for a 3.5" lift.
 

kah.mun.rah

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Please define “heavy,” and ”terrible offset.”
Many prefer a 4.75 backspace over a 4.4 and most 17x9 wheels fall into the 24-35 lbs range whereas these Mopar 17x8 wheels are 38 lbs.
 

kah.mun.rah

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LOL...define "fine"...
Fine as in I have been running 37s for 4 years on 4.10 (with the 8 speed auto) without any problem reaching 8th gear on the highway or losing power on the hills (on and off-road). That said, before paying $4K to have 4.56 gears I would much rather re-gear 4.10 to 4.88 or 5.13,
 

CarbonSteel

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Fine as in I have been running 37s for 4 years on 4.10 (with the 8 speed auto) without any problem reaching 8th gear on the highway or losing power on the hills (on and off-road). That said, before paying $4K to have 4.56 gears I would much rather re-gear 4.10 to 4.88 or 5.13,
Must be a 2.0T, because that would not be the case with a 3.6L unless you had a constant tailwind and was always driving downhill. :giggle:

With that said, I agree on the cost of 4K for gears only, but the Recon offers a bit more than just gears.
 

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kah.mun.rah

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Must be a 2.0T, because that would not be the case with a 3.6L unless you had a constant tailwind and was always driving downhill. :giggle:
My 2018 JLUR was actually the standard 3.6L and my 2021 JLUR is the 3.6L eTorque. Both 4.10s with 37s with multipe trips to and from CA to ID without any issues. Would I like 4.88s or 5.13s to keep the rpms down and get better mpg on the big freeway hills? Yes, but the re-gear is not absolutely necessary before running 37s. And to the other point, the gears I feel are the only advantage to the Recon if a person is going to replace the XR lift, wheels, and tires as soon as they get it.
 

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As far as needing a driveshaft it comes down to droop and shock length. Best to just ignore the “Why did you get the xr package people” by the way.
 

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My 2018 JLUR was actually the standard 3.6L and my 2021 JLUR is the 3.6L eTorque. Both 4.10s with 37s with multipe trips to and from CA to ID without any issues. Would I like 4.88s or 5.13s to keep the rpms down and get better mpg on the big freeway hills? Yes, but the re-gear is not absolutely necessary before running 37s. And to the other point, the gears I feel are the only advantage to the Recon if a person is going to replace the XR lift, wheels, and tires as soon as they get it.
I'll agree to disagree--my experience with a 3.6L/4.10's/35's was horrible and 37's would have been worse. With 5.13's, I have an enjoyable Jeep again.
 

kah.mun.rah

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I'll agree to disagree--my experience with a 3.6L/4.10's/35's was horrible and 37's would have been worse. With 5.13's, I have an enjoyable Jeep again.
Are you talking about a JK? If so I agree with you and that is why I am running 5.13s with 37s on my JK. A JL with an 8 speed auto is a different story. Driving through 5,000 feet elevation mountains in Colorado vs sea level deserts in CA might also be the difference.
 
 



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