Window Auto up modification

[MacombRoger]

For those that have the factory Aux switches, there's no reason to wire it directly to the battery. Look under the glove compartment. There's an interior harness for the AUX switches that's tucked away. Just connect it to the harness's red wire, which is always live.

Not enough amperage. it needs the 25amp fuse. It works with much less, but its how it senses the window is closed/open with a higher draw of power.

I think I tried that wire first, cannot remember, its been a few years.

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[AnebuR]

Not enough amperage. it needs the 25amp fuse. It works with much less, but its how it senses the window is closed/open with a higher draw of power.

I think I tried that wire first, cannot remember, its been a few years.

Seems to work fine with my 3W unit I installed last weekend. I guess it all depends on the manufacturer.

 

[Yawnie'sPapa]

The power wire seems to be about a 20 gauge, 18 tops. Really thin. Weird that they put a 25 amp fuse clean inside the cab behind dash panels and leave that thin wire unprotected.
If you don't fuse that wire at the power source, you have several feet of thin gauge wire unprotected. Fuses protect WIRES, not devices, and fuses belong at the power source, not next to the device. Do you see fuses in the PDC, or next to each device? Are breakers at the power source, or at the outlet or light switch in your house?
It's a really stupid wiring layout.
And like the young man with the 1 hour and 8 minute install video, the harness is way too short. I installed one of these on my wife's JLU. The connector just makes it through the hole and the module itself is clear up against the plastic of the dash where the harness goes through to get under the steering column. That guy and me, and others, have found the harness way too short. You can't secure the module under the dash.
If that fuse blows, you remove dash panels and try to pull the fuse holder out from that hole so you can get to the fuse. Hope it never blows because that tiny power wire will fry before blowing a 25 amps fuse!

Worse, I am now one of three people who have installed these on a 4xe - only to have to remove it again (hours wasted) because now the Jeep says "cannot charge or condition battery, hood open" and the 4xe charger flashes all of its warning lights and refuses to charge our Jeep..

They need a warning - do not install on 4xe but then, this is a company that sends out a product without a single piece of paper, no documents, no links to instructions, no nothing.
That and the short wiring harness and the really dumb place to put the fuse (for safety AND access) tells me, they really don't do any development once they unleashed this thing on the public.
It works - but....... and their support is horrible.
Anyway, don't put this on a 4xe. You will regret it. And one like one Amazon reviewer said - he had to pay to get things working again.
Me - I'm ripping the stupid thing back out so we can at least charge the damn battery.

 

[MacombRoger]

Seems to work fine with my 3W unit I installed last weekend. I guess it all depends on the manufacturer.

Cool. As I said its been a while. I thought I tried that wire and every time I used the remote to close the windows, it would work once, then a new fuse was needed. I ran a dedicated wire up to the battery with an inline fuse near the battery (I originally did a fuse tap in the PDC, but that wire always got in the way).

 

[MacombRoger]

Worse, I am now one of three people who have installed these on a 4xe - only to have to remove it again (hours wasted) because now the Jeep says "cannot charge or condition battery, hood open" and the 4xe charger flashes all of its warning lights and refuses to charge our Jeep..

Sorry to hear this. I am really trying to figure out how this device would give that warning. When not activated, its using no power. Just because it has the ability to "always pull power", doesn't mean its doing anything that most constant power sources are doing.

I would remove the power lead, and see if that issue goes away, I feel like its just bad timing. No master at this, been a long time since I installed it. Just seems odd.

As far as the length of the harness, it was a tight squeeze but mine fits fine on a 2018. I was able to secure everything. Maybe some plastic changes from Jeep or 3W since then.

 

[Yawnie'sPapa]

Sorry to hear this. I am really trying to figure out how this device would give that warning. When not activated, its using no power. Just because it has the ability to "always pull power", doesn't mean its doing anything that most constant power sources are doing.

I would remove the power lead, and see if that issue goes away, I feel like its just bad timing. No master at this, been a long time since I installed it. Just seems odd.

As far as the length of the harness, it was a tight squeeze but mine fits fine on a 2018. I was able to secure everything. Maybe some plastic changes from Jeep or 3W since then.

I took the fob out of the Jeep and set it aside where it wasn't detected inside.
I opened the hood, pulled battery cable, reconnected, closed the hood.
I got in (with FOB) and pushed the brake, then the big round button. It went into "ready" mode.
I put it in gear forward for a couple of feet, backed it up, and shut it down. Being a 4xe, the engine never started as it was hot outside. Good, I hate cold starts on gas engines.
I plugged in the charging cable and it did the self-testing flashing and started charging, all lights normal.
I double-checked, yea, all normal. I did not again try the window up part - maybe that's what triggers it? using the module? Will try again when my wife brings her Jeep back.
My wife took off with it this AM to spend the day with her quilting friends.

I compared the dash structure in our 23 4xe to the YT video the young fellow has out there of his install into a Wrangler - looks pretty much the same. I tried to think of any alternate routes for the cable that would give more room, nothing.
Like he said in the video - and he installed 2 of them - the harness is just too short. I mean that plastic connector shell that goes to the module itself barely and I mean barely, makes it through that hold in the dash structure back there which means it's really a exercise in dexterity to hold the cable connector through the hole with your right hand and then try with one hand to orient the module and get it plugged in.
It's too bad he's got comments turned off on his video - I'd thank him for his efforts and for confirming that the harness is indeed too short. And he's probably saved some beginners some real headaches. He goofed here and there, but I have little doubt he'll someday go far. He seemed like a super nice young guy.

Interesting your comment on the "pulling power". I'd expect it to not unless triggered by moving a window switch, but then, the RSE power steps always pull power, even when up/closed and all doors closed.
I can't figure out why in the world they need power all the time! Open a door, close a switch, activate the step down. Close the door, magnet opens the door switch, triggering a step to go up, and when up, kill power. It's up, it doesn't need power.
They are a constant drain on the battery and I see no need for that.
So I guess I don't trust things you connect to battery power. I'm hoping you are right about no power draw when not active. That would be really simple to test, but I'll take your word for it.

If my wife says everything worked today, and when she returns and plugs it in, if it charges ok and there are no errors, I'll try using the windows to auto-up a few times to cycle things. If all seems well, then I'll likely leave it in but with 2 mods!
I will cut the power lead and remove the fuse under the dash panel.
I will put that fuse out under the hood where it belongs.
I hate connecting things to the battery. Pretty soon you have several little wires all leading to that positive battery terminal and a mess.
So I connected the power to the window module to the N2 terminal.
That's the BUS on a 4xe and it goes directly to the positive battery terminal. It's also sort of hidden with the cover on the PDC so a dealer can't say "your problems are all of these wires on the battery".

 

[Grayhound]

I just installed this one. I was looking for the 3wliners window control module. This isthat basically, but only $72 shipped from China.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3744410074...4XdeFCLSGO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Works great and the seller was awesome!

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