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Which engine is easiest to work on?

kah.mun.rah

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I have had just over 60K miles on a 2018 JL 3.6L (non eTorque) and now have about 18K miles on a 2021 3.6L (with eTorque). Between the two of those, even though I am not a fan of the extra coolant lines and battery on the belly of my 2021, performance wise and auto start/stop wise, I would pick the eTorque over the non eTorque all day.
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OrneryBear

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Batteries are not a problem for anyone with even a modicum of technical ability.
The aux battery seems like a very simple fix through the fender well. They are only like $100 right?
 

mwilk012

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Work on, like being my own mechanic after the warranty runs out. So anything engine related. So if I need to dig into it and I have to pull out tons of emissions equipment to get to anything, like on the diesel, that sucks. That said, if I were to go with the diesel, I'd just let the warranty handle issues until it runs out, then delete all the emissions crap. That would be a future me problem haha.
Even the 3.6 has an EGR cooler now, the emissions stuff is going to be there no matter what. The scarcity of the 3.0 will be its downfall long term, whereas the 3.6 is one of, if not the single most, common engines on the road. Parts are readily available aftermarket. The 2.0 is too new to really know.
 

kah.mun.rah

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Batteries are not a problem for anyone with even a modicum of technical ability.
I realize that but after the 3rd replacement aux battery I started to run low on extra fender clips. ?
 

mwilk012

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The aux battery seems like a very simple fix through the fender well. They are only like $100 right?
Yes. Not a big deal at all. Don’t replace with the Mopar battery and you’ll get several years out of one just fine.
 

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mwilk012

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I realize that but after the 3rd replacement aux battery I started to run low on extra fender clips. ?
You’re doing it wrong, only on this forum does anyone recommend pulling the whole damn fender. It’s ridiculous. You pull the wheel off and the fender liner, the push pins for the liner are reuseable.
 

kah.mun.rah

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You’re doing it wrong, only on this forum does anyone recommend pulling the whole damn fender. It’s ridiculous. You pull the wheel off and the fender liner, the push pins for the liner are reuseable.
"Doing it wrong" is subjective. Pulling the entire fender is the way it was designed to be replaced and IMO is a lot easier than removing all of the inner fender connections. That said, I have an eTorque now so I don't have to do it at all.
 

mwilk012

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"Doing it wrong" is subjective. Pulling the entire fender is the way it was designed to be replaced and IMO is a lot easier than removing all of the inner fender connections. That said, I have an eTorque now so I don't have to do it at all.
The intended procedure for removal is by removing the fender liner. This is indisputable. Check the service manual. I’ve posted the procedure here several times.
 

Sazabi19

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It's not a problem, just pointing out that could be the only perceivable downside of the engine. That's the least of the issues on the diesel, that said I've heard of more issues with the turbo on the diesel than on the 2.0t, which surprised me because I've usually had good luck with garrett turbos in the past.
OK, I wasn't trying to say there have been many documented issues with it, just trying to ask if there was a difference between the 2.0L having a turbo and diesel. As I'm not super mechanically inclined I would think it would be a wash between having 1 in each of those engines.
 

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Except for the Aux battery that goes bad once a year.
Least of all evils for this discussion. Disable ESS and remove/bypass the aux. Then you are back to a completely conventional 12v electrical system only. Long term this is a safer, simpler bet than a mild hybrid.

Once again this is an example of a compliance "feature" that is a net negative for the consumer. Albeit a smaller example.
 

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OrneryBear

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Least of all evils for this discussion. Disable ESS and remove/bypass the aux. Then you are back to a completely conventional 12v electrical system only. Long term this is a safer, simpler bet than a mild hybrid.

Once again this is an example of a compliance "feature" that is a net negative for the consumer. Albeit a smaller example.
that would definitely be a good long term solution definitely. post warranty of course.
 
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OrneryBear

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OK, I wasn't trying to say there have been many documented issues with it, just trying to ask if there was a difference between the 2.0L having a turbo and diesel. As I'm not super mechanically inclined I would think it would be a wash between having 1 in each of those engines.
Yes and No. I'm not sure if garrett makes both turbos for both engines, I think they do, but they are different turbos, so there in is a factor, and then the application one being a small gasoline engine and the other being a diesel is another factor. It also depends on if they are properly cooled/oiled and how much boost they are running. I don't know enough specifics about how the two engines and turbos are designed to say one way or the other, but some turbos in some applications are prone to failure others are not.
 
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OrneryBear

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Even the 3.6 has an EGR cooler now, the emissions stuff is going to be there no matter what. The scarcity of the 3.0 will be its downfall long term, whereas the 3.6 is one of, if not the single most, common engines on the road. Parts are readily available aftermarket. The 2.0 is too new to really know.
this is true. the egr is definitely an issue on the diesel, but there is a lot more additional emissions equipment on the diesel, like the particulate filter and the def injection, there's also the exhaust valve which is prone to failure. Same kinda crap that's on my wife's vw tdi that has run out of it's dieselgate warranty that i might delete soon and pick up 5mpg and some power. that's if we dont trade it in on the jeep.
 

azjl#3

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The aux battery seems like a very simple fix through the fender well. They are only like $100 right?
Pffft, more like $200 with labor. I'm on the road so thats what it ran.

On the which motor? The one you want.

Anything can be fixed.

But simplest is the 3.6 with 8spd auto. No alternate is easier simpler smoother cheaper as relaible.

I've toyed around about the 4xe, but can't get by the tiny 2 liter and tiny range, fix one of those, like make a 3.6 4xe or make the range 100miles, i'll give up total payload for that.
 

kah.mun.rah

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The intended procedure for removal is by removing the fender liner. This is indisputable. Check the service manual. I’ve posted the procedure here several times.
The best undisputable option is to not need the service in the 1st place.

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