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Wanna run 40s-thoughts?

pokey02

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Thx! I am running RockKrawlers 3.5” Long Arm kit.
What gearing? Are the axles locked? ARB?

Do you have a build thread? Also curious about the rear bumper.
 

anotherWS6

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Well manual valve bodies were a thing back then and are still quite popular. And leaning on the torque converter is what makes autos so much better offroad in my opinion. You have this variable crawl ratio that you control entirely with your right foot without any shifting. You can keep the converter in stall and crawl as slow as you want, and then when you need to bump an obstacle just give it some gas and the wheel speed will be there for you. If you want to keep your converter coupled and get all your crawl from gearing, why not just get a stick shift?

Ultimately you're right though, if first gear is too low, then you don't have to use it. But personally, instead of completely writing off a gear, I would just get a case that I thought was more appropriate for my application. And if you're happy with 100:1 in an auto, there's nothing wrong with that either.
The shit that some of you guys say.......This comment and the other S and the lack of knowledge is astounding. Get rid of your 4:1 tcase, LMFAO. Coupled converter, hahaha.
 

Alacon01

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If you are for sure set on the prorock 44 in the front I think they plan on doing a semi-float 5 lug rear again. I would say just go full 60's if you are swapping, For me it was a simple piece of mind.
 

thrasher949

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There is plenty of people running 40s on stock axles with JLs. Thing to consider if you need to upgrade your axles....

1. Skinny pedal control..... can you? I ran 37's on a d30 with no issues in my JK
2. Type of terrain... if your in mud or loose dirt a lot that requires wheel slip while locked up your chances are higher for carnage
3. Gear size.... the higher gear you go the smaller the surface area on the gear face.
4. Wheel/tire weight... those Patagonias are pretty light

If you factor all these things in, a stock axle with stock gears on 40s will more than likely hold up just fine on the west coast when your on the rocks. Now if your on the east coast where there is lots of clay and tree roots to get over that requires significant wheel slip to instant traction, that's how things break and should probly be upgraded. And of course a light weight wheel combo keeps that rotating mass momentum easier on axles, transfer cases and transmissions.
 

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Zandcwhite

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Rcv's front shafts for the stock axles are warrantied up to 43" tires, I'd just upgrade shafts and run it.
 

OBJLU

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I’m going with a 60 semi float in the rear, 40 spline and keeping the M210 front, I figure with that I can get off the trail no matter what, I don’t go bezerk on the skinny pedal, if I break the 60 I have other problems. That said I think with trussed axles, RCV’s and cromoly rears we are good up to lighter 40’s and good pedal control.

I have a friend whos running untrussed axles and RCV on 40’s, he’s ran most of the KOH trails that way, no breaks
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