Viscosity Breakdown in Oils

[NWJeepr]

That means, that it has more resistance to flow, than 0w20. As the viscosity numbers increase, so does the resistance for the oil to flow. Therefore, 30 viscosity is thicker than 20 viscosity.

But at what temperature(s)

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[Old Dogger]

So, what viscosity would you recommend for someone who is not worried about fuel mileage, but wants their engine to last longer?

First, if one wants there engine to last, IMO.. the most import is changing your engine oil. Forget about that EVIC, but rather pick a mileage interval and then change it. 3000 to 5000 mile interval, seems to work out very well. Some of this depends on logistically where that one resides. Average climate, or Fairbanks Alaska, verses Phoenix Arizona where I live. So example: I live in a very hot dusty environment, so I change my engine oil every 3000 miles. If I lived in let's say Oregon, I would change it every 5000 miles. It is just common sense to do that.
To your question, if your engine is under factory warranty, then I would run the engine oil Mil-spec, and viscosity that ones owners manual recommends. Two of the three 3.6 engines in our family, are out of the factory warranty. So I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 in them, because of our extreme heat, and that fact that oil shears down relatively fast.

 

[Old Dogger]

But at what temperature(s)

Engine oil's weight is determined by its flow at a standard operating temperature of 212°F (100°C).
Oil viscosity is a measure of how resistant an oil is to flow. It decreases (thins) as the temperature increases and increases (thickens) as the temperature decreases.

 

[TheRaven]

I got 34k out of my first 3.6 engine in my JL. I have no trust that the new engine will go the next 50k without issue. That's pretty difficult for me to stomach, coming from GM trucks.

This is what i've been trying to get through to many of the old Jeepers here. Yes, you may have had JK's and TJ's that went XXX,XXX miles with no major issues...you may have had many of them. But the JL is nothing like any of those Jeeps. So those experiences are irrelevant.

But they just give me the old guy "bah you kids have no idea" brush off. They will all just learn the hard way.

Same reason i'm always jumping into the new guy "which engine/trim/option should I get" threads because a lot of those people are like you and I, coming from GM, Toyota, etc, and maybe have no idea what they're getting into.

 

[roaniecowpony]

This is what i've been trying to get through to many of the old Jeepers here. Yes, you may have had JK's and TJ's that went XXX,XXX miles with no major issues...you may have had many of them. But the JL is nothing like any of those Jeeps. So those experiences are irrelevant.

But they just give me the old guy "bah you kids have no idea" brush off. They will all just learn the hard way.

Same reason i'm always jumping into the new guy "which engine/trim/option should I get" threads because a lot of those people are like you and I, coming from GM, Toyota, etc, and maybe have no idea what they're getting into.

Yeah, I can either choose to accept that I'll likely need to fix a serious problem on my new engine in the not too distant future, or jump out of the jeep repair biz altogether. I may roll the dice for another 20,000 miles. My tolerance for a failure goes down the older I get. In two years I don't want to, nor do I think I physically could, replace another engine myself.

 

[21 Willys]

First, if one wants there engine to last, IMO.. the most import is changing your engine oil. Forget about that EVIC, but rather pick a mileage interval and then change it. 3000 to 5000 mile interval, seems to work out very well. Some of this depends on logistically where that one resides. Average climate, or Fairbanks Alaska, verses Phoenix Arizona where I live. So example: I live in a very hot dusty environment, so I change my engine oil every 3000 miles. If I lived in let's say Oregon, I would change it every 5000 miles. It is just common sense to do that.
To your question, if your engine is under factory warranty, then I would run the engine oil Mil-spec, and viscosity that ones owners manual recommends. Two of the three 3.6 engines in our family, are out of the factory warranty. So I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 in them, because of our extreme heat, and that fact that oil shears down relatively fast.

I’m in South Carolina, 25 to 95 degrees normally. Mine is a Pentastar V6 daily driver, not really any harsh conditions. I off road occasionally. I change my oil every 5k. I have been using 0w-20 fully synthetic, but had considered going with a thicker viscosity. What are your recommendations? Thanks in advance.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Well, my new engine currently has Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 in it and I have some Amsoil Signature 0w40 I picked up slightly used (kidding) that's going into it next. But, yes, I'm moving to a 40 grade. The M1 ESP 0w40, M1 Supercar 0w40, Pennz Ult Plat 0w40, and Valvoline European Full Synthetic 0w40 or 5w40 are on my list. Amsoil is more pricey than necessary, IMO.

 

[swampflyer]

Well, my new engine currently has Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 in it and I have some Amsoil Signature 0w40 I picked up slightly used (kidding) that's going into it next. But, yes, I'm moving to a 40 grade. The M1 ESP 0w40, M1 Supercar 0w40, Pennz Ult Plat 0w40, and Valvoline European Full Synthetic 0w40 or 5w40 are on my list. Amsoil is more pricey than necessary, IMO.

Well if I wasn’t confused, I am now. Thanks. I’ve been using 0w20 since I bought it. Live in a hot climate and would sure like to know if the ow20 is ok? Currently have 22000 miles and runs great. Change oil and filter every 5000 miles along with diff fluid. I know diff fluid change is over kill but that’s ok can’t hurt. Had one locker sensor replaced under warranty a while back 2020jlr was ordered new in late 19. Hood replaced and rt side door hinges corrosion replaced wnty. As a preventative move I just purchased two billet 6061 air craft Hinges for the hood. Got the anodized ones. Who knows we will see.

 

[Vinman]

I’m just going to switch over to straight 50 wt and not worry about viscosity degradation

 

[Old Dogger]

I’m in South Carolina, 25 to 95 degrees normally. Mine is a Pentastar V6 daily driver, not really any harsh conditions. I off road occasionally. I change my oil every 5k. I have been using 0w-20 fully synthetic, but had considered going with a thicker viscosity. What are your recommendations? Thanks in advance.

If I resided in your climate, I would go with 0w30. One of my good friends, has been a Member of the Bob is the oil Guy Forum, since 2005. He has 40,000 plus posts on that Forum. His climate is somewhat similar to yours. He runs 0w30 weight oil. This guy really knows a lot about oil's. So that is what I would recommend.
Where I reside, it doesn't get cold enough, to justify a 0w oil for start up. That is why I run 5w30. We have never had any engine failures, on any of our engines, caused by engine oil.

 

[21 Willys]

If I resided in your climate, I would go with 0w30. One of my good friends, has been a Member of the Bob is the oil Guy Forum, since 2005. He has 40,000 plus posts on that Forum. His climate is somewhat similar to yours. He runs 0w30 weight oil. This guy really knows a lot about oil's. So that is what I would recommend.
Where I reside, it doesn't get cold enough, to justify a 0w oil for start up. That is why I run 5w30. We have never had any engine failures, on any of our engines, caused by engine oil.

Will do, thanks very much!

 

[roaniecowpony]

Well if I wasn’t confused, I am now. Thanks. I’ve been using 0w20 since I bought it. Live in a hot climate and would sure like to know if the ow20 is ok? Currently have 22000 miles and runs great. Change oil and filter every 5000 miles along with diff fluid. I know diff fluid change is over kill but that’s ok can’t hurt. Had one locker sensor replaced under warranty a while back 2020jlr was ordered new in late 19. Hood replaced and rt side door hinges corrosion replaced wnty. As a preventative move I just purchased two billet 6061 air craft Hinges for the hood. Got the anodized ones. Who knows we will see.

I didn't mean to confuse you. I'm using thicker oil. I know this much; 0w20 isn't preventing rocker/cam failures from happening. YMMV. I like overkill too.

 

[roaniecowpony]

If I resided in your climate, I would go with 0w30. One of my good friends, has been a Member of the Bob is the oil Guy Forum, since 2005. He has 40,000 plus posts on that Forum. His climate is somewhat similar to yours. He runs 0w30 weight oil. This guy really knows a lot about oil's. So that is what I would recommend.
Where I reside, it doesn't get cold enough, to justify a 0w oil for start up. That is why I run 5w30. We have never had any engine failures, on any of our engines, caused by engine oil.

To go a bit further, go with a 0w30 that has a high HTHS around 3.5 or higher. M1 ESP 0w30 has a HTHS of 3.5.

 

[21 Willys]

To go a bit further, go with a 0w30 that has a high HTHS around 3.5 or higher. M1 ESP 0w30 has a HTHS of 3.5.

I have been using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w-20, so I will go with Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30. Thanks for you input!

 

[Old Dogger]

To go a bit further, go with a 0w30 that has a high HTHS around 3.5 or higher. M1 ESP 0w30 has a HTHS of 3.5.

Good call! The shear factor is one of my concerns, in our extreme Phoenix heat. It looks like the engine oil that I am using, has a HTHS of 3.1.

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